6l80e Converter Swap - At Home
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6l80e Converter Swap - At Home
About to buy a converter for the truck and I am wondering what is needed to do the converter swap at home without a lift. Been thinking about a trans jack or an adapter for a floor jack. Any tips on this? Who has done it? What is needed?
#2
I've done it 3 times so far but always on a lift. I imagine that you can do it on jack stands but it won't be fun at all. You won't need to pull the trans all the way out so there are several connections that can stay. Whatever you do, make sure you have some help!
The order I would go in:
Drain fluid (you can drain most by pulling the pan)
Remove whatever exhaust is in the way (don't forget O2's)
Remove driveshaft (unbolt front DS if 4x4)
Unbolt starter and move it out of the way
Unbolt converter from flexplate using starter access hole
Unbolt trans cooler lines and move them out of the way
Support trans and unbolt/remove crossmember
Let trans sag down some to access the upper bellhousing bolts
Unclip fuel lines from bracket on drivers side
Remove dipstick! (Often overlooked)
Check to make sure there are no other connections that will prevent the trans from coming down low enough to remove and install the converters.
Unbolt the bellhousing bolts (keep trans supported!)
Most have two nuts (smaller 13mm, then the bigger 15mm)
There are several brackets that are secured on the bellhousing bolts, remember which ones go where
Pull the trans away from engine a little, make sure it's free to move
Slowly lower the trans until the converter is clear.
Pull old converter, fill about a quart in the new converter and install
(For those who aren't familiar) slowly slide the converter on the shaft turning the converter back and forth while pushing slightly so that it will completely engage
Install is reverse of removal (lol)
Don't forget a new filter, pan gasket and plenty of fresh trans fluid.
The order I would go in:
Drain fluid (you can drain most by pulling the pan)
Remove whatever exhaust is in the way (don't forget O2's)
Remove driveshaft (unbolt front DS if 4x4)
Unbolt starter and move it out of the way
Unbolt converter from flexplate using starter access hole
Unbolt trans cooler lines and move them out of the way
Support trans and unbolt/remove crossmember
Let trans sag down some to access the upper bellhousing bolts
Unclip fuel lines from bracket on drivers side
Remove dipstick! (Often overlooked)
Check to make sure there are no other connections that will prevent the trans from coming down low enough to remove and install the converters.
Unbolt the bellhousing bolts (keep trans supported!)
Most have two nuts (smaller 13mm, then the bigger 15mm)
There are several brackets that are secured on the bellhousing bolts, remember which ones go where
Pull the trans away from engine a little, make sure it's free to move
Slowly lower the trans until the converter is clear.
Pull old converter, fill about a quart in the new converter and install
(For those who aren't familiar) slowly slide the converter on the shaft turning the converter back and forth while pushing slightly so that it will completely engage
Install is reverse of removal (lol)
Don't forget a new filter, pan gasket and plenty of fresh trans fluid.
Last edited by Boober; 03-10-2013 at 05:28 PM.
#3
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I've done it 3 times so far but always on a lift. I imagine that you can do it on jack stands but it won't be fun at all. You won't need to pull the trans all the way out so there are several connections that can stay. Whatever you do, make sure you have some help!
The order I would go in:
Drain fluid (you can drain most by pulling the pan)
Remove whatever exhaust is in the way (don't forget O2's)
Remove driveshaft (unbolt front DS if 4x4)
Unbolt starter and move it out of the way
Unbolt converter from flexplate using starter access hole
Unbolt trans cooler lines and move them out of the way
Support trans and unbolt/remove crossmember
Let trans sag down some to access the upper bellhousing bolts
Unclip fuel lines from bracket on drivers side
Remove dipstick! (Often overlooked)
Check to make sure there are no other connections that will prevent the trans from coming down low enough to remove and install the converters.
Unbolt the bellhousing bolts (keep trans supported!)
Most have two nuts (smaller 13mm, then the bigger 15mm)
There are several brackets that are secured on the bellhousing bolts, remember which ones go where
Pull the trans away from engine a little, make sure it's free to move
Slowly lower the trans until the converter is clear.
Pull old converter, fill about a quart in the new converter and install
(For those who aren't familiar) slowly slide the converter on the shaft turning the converter back and forth while pushing slightly so that it will completely engage
Install is reverse of removal (lol)
Don't forget a new filter, pan gasket and plenty of fresh trans fluid.
The order I would go in:
Drain fluid (you can drain most by pulling the pan)
Remove whatever exhaust is in the way (don't forget O2's)
Remove driveshaft (unbolt front DS if 4x4)
Unbolt starter and move it out of the way
Unbolt converter from flexplate using starter access hole
Unbolt trans cooler lines and move them out of the way
Support trans and unbolt/remove crossmember
Let trans sag down some to access the upper bellhousing bolts
Unclip fuel lines from bracket on drivers side
Remove dipstick! (Often overlooked)
Check to make sure there are no other connections that will prevent the trans from coming down low enough to remove and install the converters.
Unbolt the bellhousing bolts (keep trans supported!)
Most have two nuts (smaller 13mm, then the bigger 15mm)
There are several brackets that are secured on the bellhousing bolts, remember which ones go where
Pull the trans away from engine a little, make sure it's free to move
Slowly lower the trans until the converter is clear.
Pull old converter, fill about a quart in the new converter and install
(For those who aren't familiar) slowly slide the converter on the shaft turning the converter back and forth while pushing slightly so that it will completely engage
Install is reverse of removal (lol)
Don't forget a new filter, pan gasket and plenty of fresh trans fluid.
Thanks for the write up. Sounds like it won't be too bad. I've read the trans jack adapters are nothing to write home about and a cheap trans jacket runs $160 bare minimum. Is a trans jack necessary or should I just use blocks of wood and either make one quick? I've read you can hear the converter click as you slide it and turn it on, how many clicks we talking? Any measurements to know its fully installed?
#4
Thanks for the write up. Sounds like it won't be too bad. I've read the trans jack adapters are nothing to write home about and a cheap trans jacket runs $160 bare minimum. Is a trans jack necessary or should I just use blocks of wood and either make one quick? I've read you can hear the converter click as you slide it and turn it on, how many clicks we talking? Any measurements to know its fully installed?
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Thanks for the write up. Sounds like it won't be too bad. I've read the trans jack adapters are nothing to write home about and a cheap trans jacket runs $160 bare minimum. Is a trans jack necessary or should I just use blocks of wood and either make one quick? I've read you can hear the converter click as you slide it and turn it on, how many clicks we talking? Any measurements to know its fully installed?
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I have a NAPA trans jack (for a lift) and I couldn't see doing this job without it, but if you have a good floor jack, some 2x6 pieces of wood and maybe a tow strap or 2, you could probably make it work. That's a heavy S.O.B. though! You will most likely know when it's fully engaged on the shaft. Also, there is usually a min/max gap that needs to be between the flexplate and converter before they are bolted together (use some blue loctite BTW). I don't remember the dimension off the top of my head but the converter maker should say what it will need to be.
Decided to just go the rental route of a trans jack for $25 a day. Seems like a better choice than a modified floor jack or shelling the cash to buy a jack i wont use more than twice. Now to decide on the converter. 3200 triple Circle D or 3200 triple Vig. Decisions Decisions.
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I did mine in gravel without a jack, just dropped it on my chest then set it to side! Going back in with it was very difficult tho, had to use my knees to hold up tranny and one hand to guide and one hand to bolt that beast up! Would be much easier with a jack!
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My buddy suggested I do it this way, not sure what the 6l80 with transfer case weights but i doubt I could get it in doing this myself. I will give you props on doing it manual by yourself. Your more of a man than me. Saw your running a 3500-3600 stall and you tow. What do you think about me towing 5500lbs with a 3200-3400? Started thinking I should maybe stick with more like a 3000-3200 to ensure i got the towability. Also how will it drive daily? Everything I have read says it should drive daily like its stock but i havent found too many that tow stalled at this speed or higher.
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Lol... F all that noise. When I was 18 I would do this with 700r4's and think nothing of it, but then again I was 18 and bullet proof. Not a chance that I'd try it now and with a heavier 6L80.
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My buddy suggested I do it this way, not sure what the 6l80 with transfer case weights but i doubt I could get it in doing this myself. I will give you props on doing it manual by yourself. Your more of a man than me. Saw your running a 3500-3600 stall and you tow. What do you think about me towing 5500lbs with a 3200-3400? Started thinking I should maybe stick with more like a 3000-3200 to ensure i got the towability. Also how will it drive daily? Everything I have read says it should drive daily like its stock but i havent found too many that tow stalled at this speed or higher.
I tow around 5000lbs on occasion with a 2800 Circle D through rolling hills. Haven't had any issues with it but it's not something I prefer to do often.