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why am i losing break fluid???

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Old Apr 11, 2006 | 08:17 PM
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Default why am i losing break fluid???

well when i got my truck back from getting my y-pipe made, that same day i noticed i had no brake fluid, so i filled it up, and brakes work fine, then today i noticed i have to push the brake pedal down far to stop, so i put in more brake fluid today, so why would it be leaking? i checked the ground for leaks but nothing, so i guess i should check the hoses, but is that the only possibility? thanks
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Old Apr 11, 2006 | 08:46 PM
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Originally Posted by dry_kill
well when i got my truck back from getting my y-pipe made, that same day i noticed i had no brake fluid, so i filled it up, and brakes work fine, then today i noticed i have to push the brake pedal down far to stop, so i put in more brake fluid today, so why would it be leaking? i checked the ground for leaks but nothing, so i guess i should check the hoses, but is that the only possibility? thanks
If you see no visible leaks, its very possible its leaking into the booster. The rear-most piston sometimes goes bad and leaks it in there.
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Old Apr 11, 2006 | 10:36 PM
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whats the ''booster''? is that the big black circle thing by where you put the brake fluid? im not too smart when it comes to brakes, if it is that, how much does a new one cost, also how hard is it to replace???
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Old Apr 11, 2006 | 11:11 PM
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Originally Posted by dry_kill
whats the ''booster''? is that the big black circle thing by where you put the brake fluid? im not too smart when it comes to brakes, if it is that, how much does a new one cost, also how hard is it to replace???
You would need to replace both the booster and master cylinder.
The master cylinder was the original problem, but since it has leaked into the brake booster, the brake fluid will ruin the rubber diaphram in the brake booster. Even if you tried draining it, you will not get it all out.
They are usually not all that cheap. I would get the brake booster from a salvage yard and get a new master cylinder.
The replacement of the master cylinder will require you to prime and bleed it.
Then you will need to bleed all 4 wheel cylinders! There is a specific one to start at as well. Either you blled the longest brake line first and work to the shortest one or vise-versa. I forget that part.
Sorry man, good luck! Don't drive it too long. I've seen some that have filled up the brake booster and then leaked into the driverside floor. Not pretty.

Jim
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Old Apr 12, 2006 | 06:39 AM
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Originally Posted by CHEVY6000VHO
......you will need to bleed all 4 wheel cylinders!.....
kinda showing your age here they haven't run wheel cylinders on all 4 corners since the 60's

I think he meant to say bleed the calipers and yes replace both the master cylinder and the brake booster. Usually they can bought as a pair at the auto parts store. I would not recommend buying a booster from a salvage yard.
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Old Apr 12, 2006 | 07:40 AM
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Lol, I was about to say what the hell was a wheel cylinder, but about bleeding the calipers, I have an idea of how to bleed em but how do I do it and ensure that I do not get air into the lines? Also about how much does the brake booster and master cylinder cost??? Thanks
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Old Apr 12, 2006 | 08:11 AM
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Originally Posted by dry_kill
Lol, I was about to say what the hell was a wheel cylinder, but about bleeding the calipers, I have an idea of how to bleed em but how do I do it and ensure that I do not get air into the lines? Also about how much does the brake booster and master cylinder cost??? Thanks

There are a few different ways to do it; the most common is to have some-one help you.
1. Fill the master cylinder with correct type of brake fluid.
2. Have helper pump the brakes a few times.
3. Then have them hold the petal down.
4. You crack the bleed fitting on one of the calipers, brake fluid will spray out so be careful (nothing like brake fluid in your eye. ) the pedal will begin to go down, the helper should keep pressure on the pedal while the pedal moves down its stroke.
5. Then as the flow of brake fluid begins to slow at the caliper, you tighten the fitting. The pedal will stop moving down.
6. Once the fitting is tight, repeat from step two.

Some master cylinders need to be bled first.

Also check the fluid level in the master cylinder res. often, if you let it empty, air will enter the system and you will have to start over.

Another tip is to use clear hose over the bleeder fitting on the caliper. This will help direct fluid and air into a bucket, and also give you a little le-way if you don't get the fitting tight before the pedal is released.
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Old Apr 12, 2006 | 08:35 AM
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Ok I think I got it, now if it is the brake booster and master cylinder, how do I change them out??? I would pay a mechanic to do this but I don't know any good mechanics in my area
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Old Apr 12, 2006 | 09:30 AM
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Also i called autozone today and they asked what type of brakes do i have, vacume or hydroboosted, anybody know what kind i have, its a 2001 chevy silverado, also they asked if my brake type was J35 or J36 or something like that, anybodyu know what this means???
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Old Apr 12, 2006 | 09:43 AM
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I would think vaccum, check to see if either of those codes is a RPO code (in the glovebox maybe)?

another good thing is to ask the guy at Autozone, "which one do you have in stock?" - chances are he'll only have one and that's what you need, their computers suck.
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