Are there aftermarket motor mounts available? Also tune question...
10-27-2018, 04:38 AM
#23
So I'm guessing not a single person in this thread has ever walked a junkyard and seen a broken block at the motor mount?
Lets say you build a $10k 427, run solid
mounts because that's the big dick thing to do. Your truck gets hit, and the frame moves enough to break the block. So now you're fucked because you thought you were gonna save .02 on your 60' at the track you never made it too, your block is broken (maybe windowed), your truck is totaled, but hey the solid motor mounts you saved a couple hundred bucks on might be sellable for 50% off MSRP.
dont tell me I smoke enough crack to envision what the hell is likely to happen on the street. Like come on guys, it's not that impossible. Next time I am at the yard, I promise you I will find a broken block at the mount, and unlike Fast355, I'll take a pic and post it.
Just buy the poly ones, get the part number off the inserts to buy extras and have rebuildable, semi-compliant mounts.
Lets say you build a $10k 427, run solid
mounts because that's the big dick thing to do. Your truck gets hit, and the frame moves enough to break the block. So now you're fucked because you thought you were gonna save .02 on your 60' at the track you never made it too, your block is broken (maybe windowed), your truck is totaled, but hey the solid motor mounts you saved a couple hundred bucks on might be sellable for 50% off MSRP.
dont tell me I smoke enough crack to envision what the hell is likely to happen on the street. Like come on guys, it's not that impossible. Next time I am at the yard, I promise you I will find a broken block at the mount, and unlike Fast355, I'll take a pic and post it.
Just buy the poly ones, get the part number off the inserts to buy extras and have rebuildable, semi-compliant mounts.
10-28-2018, 10:58 AM
#25
So I'm guessing not a single person in this thread has ever walked a junkyard and seen a broken block at the motor mount?
Lets say you build a $10k 427, run solid
mounts because that's the big dick thing to do. Your truck gets hit, and the frame moves enough to break the block. So now you're fucked because you thought you were gonna save .02 on your 60' at the track you never made it too, your block is broken (maybe windowed), your truck is totaled, but hey the solid motor mounts you saved a couple hundred bucks on might be sellable for 50% off MSRP.
dont tell me I smoke enough crack to envision what the hell is likely to happen on the street. Like come on guys, it's not that impossible. Next time I am at the yard, I promise you I will find a broken block at the mount, and unlike Fast355, I'll take a pic and post it.
Just buy the poly ones, get the part number off the inserts to buy extras and have rebuildable, semi-compliant mounts.
Lets say you build a $10k 427, run solid
mounts because that's the big dick thing to do. Your truck gets hit, and the frame moves enough to break the block. So now you're fucked because you thought you were gonna save .02 on your 60' at the track you never made it too, your block is broken (maybe windowed), your truck is totaled, but hey the solid motor mounts you saved a couple hundred bucks on might be sellable for 50% off MSRP.
dont tell me I smoke enough crack to envision what the hell is likely to happen on the street. Like come on guys, it's not that impossible. Next time I am at the yard, I promise you I will find a broken block at the mount, and unlike Fast355, I'll take a pic and post it.
Just buy the poly ones, get the part number off the inserts to buy extras and have rebuildable, semi-compliant mounts.
Aluminum blocks are usually salvageable any way.
That being said I still recommend poly mounts for the street. Solids are usually for a max effort set up.
10-29-2018, 04:37 PM
#30
So now I have a friend inquiring if I would like to purchase a L33 he has. How much further ahead does that put me over the 4.8 in my 2006 truck? I've read that I would lose 100 lbs. in motor weight, but power wise stock to stock, what are the numbers?
If I pick it up, I'd probably do the Cam Motion cam also then, unless there are other cam recommendations for a stock converter. Like I said, not trying to build this thing to the moon, just want some more get up and go, especially after daily driving a six speed Z28 for 12 years haha.
Will I have to do anything wire harness/pcm wise to put the L33 in? Does the L33 use 24x or 58x? I guess if 58x then I can start the hunt for a 6l80e...
I think I found the numbers, so stock to stock I'd be looking at
285 to 310hp
and
295 to 335 torque.
Well like I said to, if I do it obviously I'd go aftermarket cam before stabbing it in there... Depends what all else I need to change I suppose. Don't know the price yet for the L33 either...
If I pick it up, I'd probably do the Cam Motion cam also then, unless there are other cam recommendations for a stock converter. Like I said, not trying to build this thing to the moon, just want some more get up and go, especially after daily driving a six speed Z28 for 12 years haha.
Will I have to do anything wire harness/pcm wise to put the L33 in? Does the L33 use 24x or 58x? I guess if 58x then I can start the hunt for a 6l80e...
I think I found the numbers, so stock to stock I'd be looking at
285 to 310hp
and
295 to 335 torque.
Well like I said to, if I do it obviously I'd go aftermarket cam before stabbing it in there... Depends what all else I need to change I suppose. Don't know the price yet for the L33 either...
Last edited by camar0corey; 10-29-2018 at 04:46 PM.