Are there aftermarket motor mounts available? Also tune question...
10-21-2018, 01:18 PM
#1
Are there aftermarket motor mounts available? Also tune question...
Hey all,
Are there aftermarket motor and trans mounts available for a 2006 Sierra? Wish I had done motor mounts when I had installed my Speed-Engineering headers, because of course while everything fit, once the truck was back on the ground the passenger side header is touching the frame rail. Truck has 172k on it so I'm sure the mounts are kinda beat! Also, can I get away with changing the motor mounts with the headers in the truck or am I going to have to pull them out? Oh joy...
Second question, what kind of difference can I honestly expect from a tune? I plan to have it tuned on 87, it is my daily driver and I run 87 in it now, not planning on having to run anything higher. Truck has a Airaid MIT with the stock airbox, Speed-Engineering 1 3/4" longtubes into their dual exhaust, and I swapped out my drum brake, open differential, 2.whatever gear axle for a disc brake, factory 3.73 gears, and a Trutrac. Not installed yet, but I traded my factory 17" wheels for a set of the Crane Cam gold 1.7 rocker arms. Side note, I've only got the 4.8 haha.
I had thought about building up a 5.3 on the side, maybe with like one of Cam Motion's drop in cams, but now I've got a little one on the way. I think I'm going to install the rocker arms and get the tune and call it good. Sure if I find a 5.3 down the road and have space for it (I'm currently juggling 4 F-Bodies...) , I'll probably still do this but for now I'm not going to think so much about it.
Do I need to do anything else in regards to the rocker arms? Factory pushrods fine?
Last thing, truck is throwing a fit with the drum to disc brake swap. Can this error be tuned out with HPTuners, or is it in it's own little world? Truck brakes just fine, I just hate seeing the check brake system message haha
Thanks in advance!
Pic of the blue beast haha
Someday paint will happen, this is before I fixed the some of the front bumper issues. I've still got a larger gap on the passenger side so there is some space between the grille and turn signal. Been told by a friend who has a body shop that I'll have to loosen up the bolts for the passenger side fender and push it further in.
Are there aftermarket motor and trans mounts available for a 2006 Sierra? Wish I had done motor mounts when I had installed my Speed-Engineering headers, because of course while everything fit, once the truck was back on the ground the passenger side header is touching the frame rail. Truck has 172k on it so I'm sure the mounts are kinda beat! Also, can I get away with changing the motor mounts with the headers in the truck or am I going to have to pull them out? Oh joy...
Second question, what kind of difference can I honestly expect from a tune? I plan to have it tuned on 87, it is my daily driver and I run 87 in it now, not planning on having to run anything higher. Truck has a Airaid MIT with the stock airbox, Speed-Engineering 1 3/4" longtubes into their dual exhaust, and I swapped out my drum brake, open differential, 2.whatever gear axle for a disc brake, factory 3.73 gears, and a Trutrac. Not installed yet, but I traded my factory 17" wheels for a set of the Crane Cam gold 1.7 rocker arms. Side note, I've only got the 4.8 haha.
I had thought about building up a 5.3 on the side, maybe with like one of Cam Motion's drop in cams, but now I've got a little one on the way. I think I'm going to install the rocker arms and get the tune and call it good. Sure if I find a 5.3 down the road and have space for it (I'm currently juggling 4 F-Bodies...) , I'll probably still do this but for now I'm not going to think so much about it.
Do I need to do anything else in regards to the rocker arms? Factory pushrods fine?
Last thing, truck is throwing a fit with the drum to disc brake swap. Can this error be tuned out with HPTuners, or is it in it's own little world? Truck brakes just fine, I just hate seeing the check brake system message haha
Thanks in advance!
Pic of the blue beast haha
Someday paint will happen, this is before I fixed the some of the front bumper issues. I've still got a larger gap on the passenger side so there is some space between the grille and turn signal. Been told by a friend who has a body shop that I'll have to loosen up the bolts for the passenger side fender and push it further in.
10-21-2018, 02:42 PM
#2
https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...s-suvs-536764/
5.3s are everywhere. Its going to give you about 40ft lbs and 40hp more and the 4.8 doesn't really come alive until after 4K rpm. The 5.3 torque curve is much more drivable, what you really want is a 6.0 LQ4/9
5.3s are everywhere. Its going to give you about 40ft lbs and 40hp more and the 4.8 doesn't really come alive until after 4K rpm. The 5.3 torque curve is much more drivable, what you really want is a 6.0 LQ4/9
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camar0corey (10-21-2018)
10-21-2018, 07:31 PM
#3
A few horsepower can be gained from a tune. You just need to optimize the tune for 87 and headers but really you should try to run mid grade 89 to help it out some. You're talking maybe 3 bucks a tank to help make the most of a mild tune.
No, HP Tuners can't disabled service brake system messages. It can fix the gear ratio and tire size stuff though, if you can't that.
No, HP Tuners can't disabled service brake system messages. It can fix the gear ratio and tire size stuff though, if you can't that.
10-22-2018, 03:42 AM
#4
Sounds like you need to have the gear ratio and tire size adjusted in the tune. This should get the error fixed. You likely had 3.23's in that pig. RPO code GU5
The rocker arms you have will do nothing for you. They may actually hurt you as they are heavier.
Get a small cam and some replacement pushrods and then get a good tune.
Atomic Fab & Performance manufacturer's poly and solid motor mounts. He can also set you up with a tune. You should really run a poly mount on the street. https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...mounts-551340/
The rocker arms you have will do nothing for you. They may actually hurt you as they are heavier.
Get a small cam and some replacement pushrods and then get a good tune.
Atomic Fab & Performance manufacturer's poly and solid motor mounts. He can also set you up with a tune. You should really run a poly mount on the street. https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...mounts-551340/
10-22-2018, 07:33 AM
#5
If it was me, I'd leave the motor alone for the time being. It isn't the most impossible to overcome thing about the truck that's keeping it slow.
The way to make a vehicle faster IS NOT to just start slapping parts under the hood. All that does to make it faster, is to accomplish weight reduction, centered on the driver's wallet.
If I had a truck in your situation, first thing I would do is FIX THE BRAKES, RIGHT; then a tune; then start looking for a 6.0. Preferably a LQ9 from some yoga queen soccer mom's Escalade.
I hate to tell you this but motor mounts probably aren't going to fix the header rub problem and could very possibly even make it worse. You might need to bend them in a bit (use a come-along to the opposite side frame or the like), make a little bracket to bolt to the motor to hold them closer in, or some such.
The way to make a vehicle faster IS NOT to just start slapping parts under the hood. All that does to make it faster, is to accomplish weight reduction, centered on the driver's wallet.
If I had a truck in your situation, first thing I would do is FIX THE BRAKES, RIGHT; then a tune; then start looking for a 6.0. Preferably a LQ9 from some yoga queen soccer mom's Escalade.
I hate to tell you this but motor mounts probably aren't going to fix the header rub problem and could very possibly even make it worse. You might need to bend them in a bit (use a come-along to the opposite side frame or the like), make a little bracket to bolt to the motor to hold them closer in, or some such.
10-22-2018, 08:38 AM
#6
On my 2001 Silverado and my mom's 2003 Sierra, the motor mounts did fix the issue. what I can say is get the Ac Delco mounts which is what i used on my mom's truck and I have solids on mine,
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10-22-2018, 08:20 PM
#8
He doesn't have a 5.3. He has a 4.8.
Put the same (or equivalent... same $$$) tune on a 6.0, and jump right back to the 13% advantage from the cubes.
CID = the cheeeeeeeepest power money can buy
Put the same (or equivalent... same $$$) tune on a 6.0, and jump right back to the 13% advantage from the cubes.
CID = the cheeeeeeeepest power money can buy
10-22-2018, 08:35 PM
#9
Nope.
2500 for a blower that nets 250whp over stock
1500-1800 for a motor that nets 300whp
I'll let the results speak for themselves, but the minute someone makes 450rwhp with a 6.0 for 2500, including buying it, I'll listen.
displacement is not the cheapest power available, not anymore.
2500 for a blower that nets 250whp over stock
1500-1800 for a motor that nets 300whp
I'll let the results speak for themselves, but the minute someone makes 450rwhp with a 6.0 for 2500, including buying it, I'll listen.
displacement is not the cheapest power available, not anymore.
10-23-2018, 07:08 PM
#10
So the brake error message is likely coming from the gear and different tire size, versus going from drums to discs?
What kind of blowers are going used in that price range? Roots? Centrifugal? How much beefing up of the 4L60E would be needed in that case?
So maybe sell the rockers to fund the tune haha and then just be happy.
Any input from those running solid motor mounts? $150 versus $350 for the polys is tempting but it is a driver...
What kind of blowers are going used in that price range? Roots? Centrifugal? How much beefing up of the 4L60E would be needed in that case?
So maybe sell the rockers to fund the tune haha and then just be happy.
Any input from those running solid motor mounts? $150 versus $350 for the polys is tempting but it is a driver...
