Why does it need to be rebuilt? Can you see the ringland busted?

Just looks like valve kissed the piston.

Put new springs in, light headwork and button it back up

 

Yea, I am seeing if I can get a new valve from PRC or if they will make me buy a rebuilt.

The bottom end is toast for sure. The alignment mark is not in the correct position. This shouldn't have happened. Not really making that much HP with the motor.

Unless you think I can throw a new rod and piston in there and get away with running it. But still wouldn't there be metal in the oil system or something?

 

If there is no damage to the cylinder, you can put another piston in it.

I would look over the bearings and see how she looks. If there is damage and it needs to be machined, rebuild it or sale it for parts.

 

The trans fluid in the coolant is because the cooler in the radiator let go. Your probally going to need to flush the trans out as well

 

Have you made any more progress with this?

 

I took the engine to a rebuilder instead of ordering a new engine online. The guy said he thought it looked like fatigue especially due to the powdered metal rods.

Stock for stock he was much cheaper than any OEM replacement engine I could order online. In the performance arena he was only slightly cheaper than most of the engines I could order online but I don't have to pay for freight, lift gate charge, and then take time off work. I also looked at some used engines in the 2 to 2.5k $ range in Baltimore but decided for not much more I could get a totally "new" engine.

Pretty much everything in the engine was trashed except for the bare block. The cam had blemishes on several lobes. The crank was very banged up on the counter weights. Many of the pistons and rods looked like they were peened. All of the mains looked great so it wasn't an oiling problem but the cam bearings were very aged and showing yellow.

Since I live in an area of intense traffic I am going to keep the rotating ASM pretty low brow other than a 4" crank since that crank wont cost much more than a new replacement. 10.5:1. He promised to use rods that wouldn't fatigue either. I will recycle the ported 5.3L heads on the motor and step up from a 224R cam to a 228R cam. This build leaves power on the table but I am not really looking to find the next weakest link if you know what I mean.

Just waiting to get the engine back now.

 

Stroker LS motors don't live as long. I wouldn't recommend it.

I have never heard of the rods fatiguing in these motors.

It looks like you ingested water or coolant. I could see that bending a rod. But on their own they don't just wear out and fatigue with age.

 

It is a dexcool motor. Orange color is normal. Can't say it looked like the gasket was leaking. Wasn't having to add coolant. Most likely rod was weak from previous abuse and I did remember revving up immediately before the failure. Forgot that detail in the hassle that followed. I still think the power level was low. Could have been large coolant leak right before failure? Sure.

People dont drive that much here so if I get 50K miles on it the truck will probably be rusted out in the next 10 years.

 

Did you have a underdrive crank pulley on this engine?