Is there any easy way to replace the brake lines on these things?

I'm having extreme difficulty at this point. I bought pre-bent stainless steel lines. I got the rear brake lines on fine.

The fronts seem to be impossible. Between the junk plastic clips running on the frame rail, the zero clearance issue, and the rusty mess it is under it I'm getting to the point I'm just going to scrap this thing. Very frustrated.

I've had two brake lines break on me while driving it and neither time was fun. Now that I've tried replacing them I'm surprised I didn't get killed. Mechanic is out of the question because he told me everything looked fine and he was very wrong. The dealer wants $3500 to change the brake lines. They told me they have to pull the cab off to do it and they won't use any brake lines I supply.

Do I really have to pull the cab to change 4 lines? I can't get the cab jacked up high enough to give any clearance. Every time I try it moves maybe half an inch till it stops. I pulled all the bolts out for the cab and see no reason for it to be stuck but it won't move anymore then that. If I was changing the cab bushings I'd be golden for how much it jacks up, no so much with the brake lines.

Thanks,
Mike

 

I changed all the lines on my 01 RCSB in 3 hours, on a creeper, and the truck on jack stands. Got them all in where they belong, bledo, and out of the garage in that time frame. Not difficult, just takes some patience feeding the lines through.

 

How did you get the lines fed through on the front drivers side frame rail? Those are the ones really kicking my ***. There's probably a 1/16" to 1/8" of room from the brake lines to the bottom of the cab for me in some spots.

 

Soindsl ike the body bushings are collapsed, if you have that little room! when i do them i take the fan and shroud/efans out to get the rf line in and out, the rest i just snake in!! Just take your time... And be patient with it!

 

They could be. I got the truck a year and a half ago and it was seriously neglected. Rusted out rocker panels, half *** fixed cab corners, a lot of broken stuff and a rusty frame. Wouldn't be surprised if they did collapse. I never checked the passenger side ones.

If they are collapsed, would that be why the cab only picks up about a little on the driver side and then stops? Not enough room to pivot on the bushings on the driver side?

I guess I can't complain too much about it since I only paid 1800 bucks for a 4x4 5 speed manual v8. But getting tired of fixing stuff lol.

How much room should I typically have between the frame rail and cab? I'm probably just going to replace all the cab bushings anyways now and hope that improves my room. The truck isn't important to getting running ASAP, just need to at least get it safely drivable before winter so I don't have to take my Camaro through the salt.

Anything else I should look for while I'm crawling around doing this? Or anything else I can do to help make these brake lines easier to route in the front? Hoping with these stainless steel brake line that I never have to do this again lol

Thanks,
Mike

 

Hell if youre changing the cab bushing, do the brake lines then, loosen the cab bolts, remove driver side bolts and tilt the cab up and it should open everything up, theres a spot going by the frane that is kinda tight but not like you were describing....

 

I just ordered a set of poly bushings.

I'll replace the passenger side then try to tilt the drivers side cab back up again and see what I have for room.

When I hook the brake lines back up to the ABS unit, should I work the lines in the the middle to the outter ones? And what are you guys doing for tightening them if there's a leak? Hoping to have no leaks when I'm done. I heard these stainless lines need to be tighter compared to other types of brake lines.

Thanks,
Mike

 

yeah I definitely just worked them in slowly twisting and wiggling them through. I didnt even take out the fan shroud to do mine.

 

A couple of those fittings are impossible to tighten on abs without a crows foot line wrench set imo... If not using them go buy a cheap set asap well worth it!
The rest is just getting them all ran and started and in place before fully tightening them down. Oh and aloooot of patience im sure youve figured out lol
If someone really did it in 3hrs, im certain its a half assed job take your time and do it right.
The stainless set should be a two piece RF line which makes install alot easier.

 

3 hours when youve done three or 4 sets isnt half *** just repetitive!!! As far as connectinv the lines start closest to frame and work out... I will loosen the module up to get to them a little easier....