tarpon4me

I got a PM from someone asking about tips and such for the installation of an aftermarket pulley. Well, I never did a full write up on my experiance, and since my PM back turned out so well, I wanted to post it up here for all to review. See Below:


First of all, make sure you make the effort to get the right tools, because if you don't, this job will be hell. If you've got the right tools, it won't take you but a couple hours, tops. Next, if you tear something up, i'm not responsible. Just got to toss that in there, because **** happens, and when you shadetree stuff, that goes along with the territory.

Speaking of tools, lets look at the specialty tools you'll want on hand, and what to look for to insure you've got a complete tool.

Install tool. There's a guy on this site that sells a really nice one for like 45 bucks or something.

Next, the proper puller is vehicle dependant. My 5.3 liter took a three jaw puller. Some vehicles require the one that bolts to the front. If it takes the bolt kind, do yourself a favor and take it to the hardware store, and go ahead and buy three bolts of the proper thread, 2" longer than what is in the kit. I rented my three jaw puller from Autozone, which is free. You pay a fee upfront, but they refund the money in full when you return the tool. Pretty darn slick. The first problem I ran into was the puller did not come with the long center rod to stick in the camshaft, for the puller to push against. I didn't notice this until I had the truck apart. This little oversight on my part cost me a couple hours, hunting a bolt strong enough to hold up to the puller while it was being used. I ended up with a 1/2" bolt from a tractor supply store, after I folded two previous ones in half that were not strong enough. I took a grinder and ground a dimple in the head of it, so the puller's head would swivel on it, and not slide off under a load. So, if you rent a puller, make sure it has the bolt in it. If not, go ahead and get that part worked out. DO NOT get a little pansey *** bolt. Get the biggest one you can fine. A big allen head bolt would work perfect, since it already has the hole in the center, if you can fine one big enough and of the correct length.

If you still have a mechanical fan, you're going to need a big *** adjustable wrench or the proper sized open end wrench to break it loose. I just borrowed a buddies adjustable wrench, so I wasn't going through a bunch of money buying a big wrench set that i'll likely never use again. Keep in mind that fan isn't on there very tight, as I lightly tapped the wrench with a hammer and it broke free. Remember that when you install it. You don't need to torque it down so much. Leaving the belts attached during the tear down should keep enough tension on it to remove what you need to.

Do yourself a favor and go to amazon.com and buy yourself a Haynes manual for your truck. It will save your *** when you run into an issue. They are worth every penny.

Drive on ramps

Make sure you have a big *** screwdriver, you're going to need it in order to lock up the flywheel when you install your aftermarket pulley. A chain wrench or belt wrench can damage the aftermarket pulley. That came strait from Powerbond. They do make a flywheel locking tool, but it's expensive.

I'm going to assume you have the normal basic handtools, you're going to need them.

You are going to need a heavy duty breaker bar, and at least a 3' piece of pipe to extend it's length. The factory bolt on most apps is torqued to over 200 ft/lbs, and I promise you don't have the *** to move it with out a mechanical advantage. Get the pipe, get the breaker bar, no exception.

Make sure you have a buddy handy with a set of wheels. The buddy will be a big help during the removal/ installation of your pulley, and they are also nice to have around in the event something doesn't work out and you need to make a run to get a part or additional tool, and you're truck is already torn apart. Insure you have a case of suds on stand-by for a victory celebration and reward for your friends help. They will have earned it. Having a deer tendorloin thawed and wrapped in bacon is also a nice reward for the handy friend. Grill to 175 internal temp, that's a pro tip.

OK, so we've got the crap out of the way you'll need. What to get? I'd go with a Powerbond underdrive pulley. I am very pleased with mine, and it's definately a high quality part. I would recommend buying this product from Scoggin Dickey, because their customer service is top notch and they have great prices. I actually ran into a problem getting the wrong pulley, and they made it right, very quickly. Also, scratch the alternator pulley, you don't need it, and it's just an extra PITA. My truck charges the same is it did before the swap, my A/C is just as cold as it was before the swap. Why get something you don't need? **** on a boar hog, no good for nothing. Another thing about the Powerbond is no matter what model you get, no matter the application, it WILL NOT have cut outs. It will be a smooth pulley everytime!

The VERY FIRST FREAKING THING you need to do, before you EVER turn a bolt, is look up the part number of the pulley you got and make sure it's the right part number. I didn't do this, and I paid for it. That goes for anything else you've got that is for the install.

On to the tear down. Drive your truck up on ramps. First of all, remove the rock shield under your truck if it has one. Mine was held on by 4 bolts I think. This will give you access to the bottom side of the pulley, for when you go to remove the stock one, and maybe if you need your buddy to help get the pulley on or something. Next, you're not going to get the pulley off with out removing your air tube, fan, and fan shroud. Don't try it, don't think about not removing the parts, just do it. Get it in your mind, and just jump on it. It's a piece of cake. Also, if you look in the Haynes manual, it says you have to remove any hoses that are above the fan shroud to remove it. Note this is on my truck, not necessarily yours. But, moral of that sentence is, I did no such thing, and it came out fine. I wasn't interested in dumping coolant everywhere for no reason. I strongly suggest that if you don't have to, don't remove any lines. They do not get in the way, at least, they didn't get in my way. The fan shroud on my truck was held on by two bolts and 4 press pins. The press pins are plastic, and round. The center should have a small circle in the center. Wedge a flathead screwdriver in there to pop up the center. That should release the push pin. When you install it, just stick it back in the hole, and push the center down. Next, I don't know what you're 4.8 has, but my 5.3's balancer had cut outs, so I just had a buddy wedge a pry bar in between the cut outs while I broke the bolt loose; This is after I removed the belts. Next, put on the puller and remove the pulley. If you've done your prep, you should have the proper center bolt or rod that is long enough to bottom out in the camshaft hole, and still give you enough length to ratchet off the balancer with the puller. OK, you're half way there. Wasn't that easy???? HA!!!! OK, drink a beer and have a smoke to celebrate your progress. Also, it's a bad idea to lube up the inside of the new balancer to make is slide on easier. Don't do that, OK? Especially if your camshaft doesn't have a key, which mine doesn't. I didn't boil it, and it went on hard, but it still went on with out much effort. It's actually a bad idea to boil the balancer to begin with. Remember, it's got rubber in it's construction, and there's a rubber seal that it will butt up against when installed.

tarpon4me

Alright, stick your new pulley on the end of the camshaft. If you have a key, line it up. Just note that regardless of what type of Powerbond pulley you get, it's going to have a place for a key. If your truck doesn't have a key, don't let that bother you. I called Powerbond about this. The reason the key is there is so if you decide to upgrade to a performance cam, which will be keyed, you can continue to use this pulley. Also note that, if yours doesn't have a key, there is no special way to put it on. So, put on your new pulley, and press it on with the install tool. I actually gave my pulley a VERY LIGHT tap with a rubber mallet, just so it was on the end of the cam before the installer was put on. When you begin to press that pulley on, you'll notice the motor trying to turn on you. I had my buddy remove the forward most inspection plate on the bellhousing and wedge a BA screwdriver in there to hold the flywheel still. I think he just stuck the end of the screwdriver in the teeth, and wedged it along the housing. It made me feel uncomfortable, but it worked out fine. The inspection plates on my 2001 silverado where just a thin little piece of sheet metal. A flat head screw driver and they popped right out with no problem. There was actually this little tiney one and a larger one. I removed the larger one toward the front of the vehicle, and that exposed the flywheel. This carried me through the entire installation process, including the torquing process at the end. Something else to note is, don't reuse the factory bolt. That bolt actually stretches when intially installed. Some people will tell you it's not a stretch bolt, and some people will tell you they've resused there's a hundred time. Well, I called GM, and IT IS a stretch bolt, so don't fall victom to the bullshit. If you do reuse the stock bolt, and the head pops off going down the road, don't call me.... If you order from Scoggin Dickey, they will send you a new bolt anyhow, if you get the kit. (I strongly recommend this, as you'll know you've got the proper size bolt and replacement belts) You will go bonkers trying to find the right belts if you don't already know. Once you get the pulley pressed on, break out that breaker bar and pipe again, and tighten that sucker until you can't pull it any more, then give it a few more quick bumps just to make sure. If you have a torque wrench that reads that high, go for it. Just don't put the pipe on the torque wrench, it will skew the actual readings, and you could damage the torque wrench. Once you're sure it's good and tight, don't skimp here, it's important that bolt is super tight, install your belts. Hopefully, they are the right size. LOL< If they are, and you want to, make sure you have all the tools out of the way, and give it a quick crank. Don't be surprised if the truck runs like *** and quickly stalls out. That's normal, as the air tube isn't hooked up. I turned mine over for a second just to make sure the belts were tracking properly. Don't let it run like that, just long enough to check the belts. Now that you've got that far, it's time to put the fan shroud, fan, and air tube back on. Remember, don't torque that mechanical fan too much. just get it tight.

Well, you should be done. That's all there is to it. My first shot at this was almost 10 hours, only to put my truck back together with the stock pulley. My second attempt was only 2 hours, plus another hour of running around looking for belts. But the actual install was only 2 hours. BIG DIFFERENCE as a result of trial and error. I hope that this helps you out. I'll actually post this up on a forum, and maybe they'll make it a sticky so people don't have to hunt down this info.

GOOD LUCK MAN!!!!!

JimS

Could you post a llink to the proper pulley for a 2002 5.3?

Thanks, Jim