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I need to know how to confirm it the master cyliner or not.
I changed the master cylinder and possibly got a bad one (advance auto pts reman).
I bench bled it and I can say the 1st part of the stroke is easier than the 2nd.
After bolting it on I cracked the feed lines to bleed there while a helper kept pressure on the pedal.
I pressure bled and with a scanner I ran the automated ABS bleed. Then pressure bled again. Took her out and its like I have front brakes only.
Shoes and drums are OK.
How can I confirm its the master cyl? Is the first part of the bench bleed push easier then the 2nd?
The truck used to stop great and on panic or hard braking the rears let you know they are there. Not now.
If needed is there a recommended master cylinder brand?
Well, if when bench bleeding one strokes the piston all the way in and out damages the seals, that's my problem. I have been researching and see folks just pushing in about an inch.
Thanks, I replaced the master cylinder today and eliminated it as the issue. Still no rear brakes to speak of if at all.
I'll be pulling the drums to have a look. Maybe thay are glazed?
Pulled the drums. They were adjusted pretty close and had to chatter them off. No complaints about adjustment.
I found a tarry substance on both sides in different areas but not on the contact surfaces. They look pretty slick. I dunno if you would call them glazed. It did not smell like diff oil.
I changed my diff oil over a year ago and was careful not to over fill by not topping off at the spill hole. But maybe some purged?
This side was only on the top of the wheel cylinder. I did not come from the cylinder.
This is the other side and it looks like the axel weeped at one time but stopped. Its tarry.
This is how the shoe liner looks. I wiped it off for the pic.
This is how much OEM shoe liner I had left @75k miles.
Start by replacing them and adjusting them until you can JUST BARELY get the drums to go back on over them, AFTER removing the ridge left at the edge of the drums surface that the shoes don't touch. Alternatively, put the drums on then adjust the shoes up, until you literally can't turn them by hand anymore. They'll wear enough in the first 100 feet of rolling to loosen up from there.
If they don't bleed, you probably need the rubber hose at the center of the pumpkin.
OOps, Sorry, I was showing how my last set looked in the last picture@75k, I now have 115k miles on the 2nd set but they are getting there, it will be nice if its just wear.
See the pics below of current wear, they always seem to wear thinner at the bottoms. I hope you are right about the wear.
As for the hose, its a Russel SS braided and they bleed fine.
Again I hope its just the need for new shoes & drums. I'll not have another set of drums cut (long story).
So while waiting to get new parts to re-shod her I pondered the proportioning valve and found out These trucks don't have stand alone proportioning valves anymore. Mercy I hope this isn't the issue.
A dynamic rear proportioning system is integrated with an existing vehicle anti-lock braking system (ABS) and performs the function of the rear brake pressure proportioning where ABS is not required. The rear brake hydraulic channel(s) are isolated from the master cylinder by activating the rear isolation valves, provided in the ABS, to provide the optimum brake force balance, regardless of vehicle loading, without the use of a load sensing mechanism.lves anymore, its dynamic rear proportioning (DRP).
07-05-2019, 07:05 PM
No Rear Brakes? 2005 w/Rear Drums
