1Bear

iTrader: (1)

For break-in purposes I generally just ran Shell Rotella T in a 10W-30, as it was high in Zinc and Phosphorus or ZDDP (zinc dialkyl dithio phosphate) anti-wear additives. Everyone is always concerned over the amount of Zinc, but in reality one should be more concerned with the Phosphorus levels, however the two go hand and hand and when you limit the Phosphorus, you limit the Zinc as well. Chevron Delo 400 was another good choice available in multi-grade viscosities. However diesel engine oils for the year model 2007 and newer had to clean up to meet the new government regulations and the new API CJ-4 oil is designed to be backwards compatible, so finding the older API CI-4 oils on the shelf is getting harder. Current API/SM classification oils are limited to a maximum of 800 parts per million and the API CJ-4 diesel oils are limited to 1,200 parts per million (ppm), so it does have 400 ppm more than API pass car oil but it’s only marginally better. Any oil that you get that says API or ILSAC GF-4 contains a limited amount of zinc and phosphorous, and for most racing applications or flat tappet cam engines, that’s not what you want.

Now-a-day’s it is just about as easy to find good break in oils at most decent parts stores as it is to search for an replacement oil (Joe Gibb’s, Royal Purple, ect. the list is longer than your arm). GM’s EOS is easily available at your local dealership and was designed as a supplement for break-in and is now marketed as an assembly lube, which some believe is how they can keep it on the shelf while containing higher than allowable ZDDP levels.

Once broken in, for traditional high performance engines, I have consistently used Kendall Motor Oil’s with great success. Motor oils from Kendall hold up as well as a motor oil can in Nitromethane & Alcohol-Fueled engines and I’ve always felt their products do the job very well in whatever measily powered combination I may run.

I also run Valvoline in just about everything else, whether it be the transmission or what-ever. Of course I just use Mobile 1 in my truck as you can get it anywhere.

1LOW4X4

iTrader: (2)

Thanks a bunch for the info, I've learned quite a lot from you on here! I've noticed a pattern of very informative posts from you. Seem to know a lot about everything!

Bow-Tie-Beast

Just my 2 cents but.... If it were me, I would run 5-30 or 10-30 conventional oil for about 2500 to 3000 miles,not going over 60mph. Then change and go with 5 or 10-30 Royal Purple for the life of the engine. I would have regular 7500 mile oil and filter changes. I have ran RP for a few years now and every time I change it at 7500 miles and it is still purple and can see through it. Gives me 2 mpg better than the conventional ever did. Make sure you buy a quality filter!

Goog Luck!

1LOW4X4

iTrader: (2)

Thanks, I buy Wix filters.

I think I'm set on conventional oil for this truck.

Bow-Tie-Beast

To each there own...lol. I dont think that I have ever used WIX filters. I have either used the K&N (PRICEY) or puralator gold filters. The K&N is easy to take off and gives a little bit more oil pressure than the gold filters but $9 to $12 a filter is a little much. I will use an AC Delco ina pinch

How much $ do the WIX filters run? Arnt they advertized as a "racing" filter?

1LOW4X4

iTrader: (2)

$15 for wix

Bow-Tie-Beast

D-A-M-N!! What makes them so damn special? How many miles do you normally use it for? I would think at least 2 oil changes.LOL!!

1LOW4X4

iTrader: (2)

I run Mobil 1 and Wix filter for around 5K, maybe less. Usually whenever I feel its necessary to change it. Which is why when I pulled my valve covers off at 160,000 the internals looked brand new.

I don't worry about maintenance costs too much, although the 350 I'm building for my '85 is a budget build, hence conventional oil

oldred95

You want an oil with no later then the CI-4 designation on a flat tappet engine. I believe Mystic is about the only one still making it. I ran mystic 15w 40 in my 95 for a long time until I went to a roller cam and decided to try Mobil 1.

littlesnowcreek

On new motors It is really necessary to use just the store brand and save your money you need to break in the motor, and let it get hot.. then I would drain it all and then fill with 10W 30 and run it about 500 miles and change the oil again.. the best brand would be Valvoline all the way.