Hydroboost Problem
#11
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (27)
Had the same problem and just spoke with Van from Vanco Power Brake Supply (an expert on hydroboost systems).
He said if your brakes are dragging and you have separated the master cylinder from the brake booster to identify that it is indeed the hydroboost causing the problem (not kinked brake line, old calipers or something else), there are two likely causes:
1. The pedal rod is too long. To diagnose, disconnect the rod from the pedal, then start the truck, if it has stopped dragging, then you need to put spacers in between the brake booster and firewall to space the rod out appropriately.
2. There is resistance in the low pressure return line. It is either blocked, kinked or just isn't flowing well. To diagnose, disconnect the return line and let it drain into a bottle while the truck is running (shouldn't be a gusher, just a trickle of fluid). Plug the connector to avoid fluid spilling. If this fixes it, then that is your problem. If it is T'ed in, then the straight part of the 3/8" T fitting should go from hydroboost to reservoir and the steering box line should be at a 90* angle as it is less sensitive to flow resistance (this is likely my problem, haven't fixed it yet b/c I just found this out today). Another problem is that the T is overclamped and flow is being blocked with the hose clamps. Or, the hose could be old, too small or kinked. He said that the power steering pump should not cause your brakes to drag, so don't haul off and replace that first without testing these things out.
In the picture above, it looks as though the problem was that the T fitting was set up wrong with the 90* fitting going to the hydroboost instead of to the steering box.
Hope this helps someone else. I couldn't turn anything up about it. (yes I know this thread is 3 years old)
He said if your brakes are dragging and you have separated the master cylinder from the brake booster to identify that it is indeed the hydroboost causing the problem (not kinked brake line, old calipers or something else), there are two likely causes:
1. The pedal rod is too long. To diagnose, disconnect the rod from the pedal, then start the truck, if it has stopped dragging, then you need to put spacers in between the brake booster and firewall to space the rod out appropriately.
2. There is resistance in the low pressure return line. It is either blocked, kinked or just isn't flowing well. To diagnose, disconnect the return line and let it drain into a bottle while the truck is running (shouldn't be a gusher, just a trickle of fluid). Plug the connector to avoid fluid spilling. If this fixes it, then that is your problem. If it is T'ed in, then the straight part of the 3/8" T fitting should go from hydroboost to reservoir and the steering box line should be at a 90* angle as it is less sensitive to flow resistance (this is likely my problem, haven't fixed it yet b/c I just found this out today). Another problem is that the T is overclamped and flow is being blocked with the hose clamps. Or, the hose could be old, too small or kinked. He said that the power steering pump should not cause your brakes to drag, so don't haul off and replace that first without testing these things out.
In the picture above, it looks as though the problem was that the T fitting was set up wrong with the 90* fitting going to the hydroboost instead of to the steering box.
Hope this helps someone else. I couldn't turn anything up about it. (yes I know this thread is 3 years old)
On the above photo the return from the hydro is Tee'd into the feed from the PS pump to the ps cooler...higher pressure which reduces outflow from the hydro boost. The return has to be teed into the hose coming from the ps cooler back to the ps pump. Honestly this isn't all that clear in the online tutorials I read (although I certainly do appreciate that they were done). The easiest way to prevent this would be just to use the ps pump with the 2nd return inlet. But that's also unnecessary.
#12
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (28)
Had it for a couple of years, then it started leaking from the T a bit ago, just dripping, so checked the clamps and tightened them up a bit, but kept dripping. So I took a razor blade, cut about 1" off all three hoses to give the clamps a fresh surface, bought 3 new clamps and now it has stopped leaking, but the brakes have started dragging. Thought it was the fluid level, so sucked some out, added some, sucked some out, nothing has worked.
Since the only thing that has changed are the clamps and some thicker Lucas no-leak power steering fluid (though I have diluted it with regular stuff now that the leak is fixed), I am convinced it has something to do with the return line.
Van was convinced that the reason they're dragging is the way the T fitting is configured (but that's how it has been from day 1, so I'm confused why it just now started unless I have overclamped the clamps, but they were just hand tight, nothing crazy tight). I'm going to switch it today or tomorrow and post back up. If that doesn't fix it, I'll switch and T in after the cooler like you and SilveradoXD said.
Since the only thing that has changed are the clamps and some thicker Lucas no-leak power steering fluid (though I have diluted it with regular stuff now that the leak is fixed), I am convinced it has something to do with the return line.
Van was convinced that the reason they're dragging is the way the T fitting is configured (but that's how it has been from day 1, so I'm confused why it just now started unless I have overclamped the clamps, but they were just hand tight, nothing crazy tight). I'm going to switch it today or tomorrow and post back up. If that doesn't fix it, I'll switch and T in after the cooler like you and SilveradoXD said.
Last edited by TX Tahoe Z71; 01-08-2013 at 04:12 PM.
#13
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Crystal Springs, MS
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i had the 2500HD PS pump, bracket, and reservior from the LQ4 when i bought it.. so when i did HB swap i just bolted it on and went.
only other thing i see helping is a Y fitting instead of a T fitting.
only other thing i see helping is a Y fitting instead of a T fitting.
#15
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (27)
Had it for a couple of years, then it started leaking from the T a bit ago, just dripping, so checked the clamps and tightened them up a bit, but kept dripping. So I took a razor blade, cut about 1" off all three hoses to give the clamps a fresh surface, bought 3 new clamps and now it has stopped leaking, but the brakes have started dragging. Thought it was the fluid level, so sucked some out, added some, sucked some out, nothing has worked.
Since the only thing that has changed are the clamps and some thicker Lucas no-leak power steering fluid (though I have diluted it with regular stuff now that the leak is fixed), I am convinced it has something to do with the return line.
Van was convinced that the reason they're dragging is the way the T fitting is configured (but that's how it has been from day 1, so I'm confused why it just now started unless I have overclamped the clamps, but they were just hand tight, nothing crazy tight). I'm going to switch it today or tomorrow and post back up. If that doesn't fix it, I'll switch and T in after the cooler like you and SilveradoXD said.
Since the only thing that has changed are the clamps and some thicker Lucas no-leak power steering fluid (though I have diluted it with regular stuff now that the leak is fixed), I am convinced it has something to do with the return line.
Van was convinced that the reason they're dragging is the way the T fitting is configured (but that's how it has been from day 1, so I'm confused why it just now started unless I have overclamped the clamps, but they were just hand tight, nothing crazy tight). I'm going to switch it today or tomorrow and post back up. If that doesn't fix it, I'll switch and T in after the cooler like you and SilveradoXD said.
#19
Lucas power steering tar + cold temps and the T probably created the perfect storm. The lucas is the only thing that changed and probably created just enough extra pressure.
#20
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (28)
Didn't have enough slack to connect the previously cut hose to the steering box, so I just switched the T so that the booster runs straight to the cooler. I plan to pick up some more 3/8" hose tomorrow and splice in after the cooler when I have a chance. Hopefully this provides a temporary fix.
Thanks for the help guys
Thanks for the help guys