Most of you probably dont know me on this site, but I am a pretty active member of the conversions forum over on Tech. I do automotive wiring and electronics as a career and for fun on the weekends, which leads me here! I recently bought a 2004 Silvy W/T 5.3/60E/4wd which did not have cruise. The first time I had it on the highway I decided that cruise was defiantly in order.

The installation takes literally a half hour, and can be as cheap as $40 depending on how much you pay for the signal lever. I got mine for $25 from a salvage yard. This is a FACTORY quality install, no cutting and splicing here!

Parts you need:
1 - Turn signal lever with cruise
1 - 4 way male Metri-pack connector p/n 12047786
4 - Male 120 series Metri-pack terminals p/n 12047581-L
4 - Female 280 series Metri-pack terminals p/n 15304711-L
4 - 8" sections of 20-22AWG preferably GRY/WHT, GRY/BLK, DK BLU & BWN

The electrical parts can be found on Mouser Electronics website and will cost about $2.50 for parts and $7 to ship

Tools you will need:
Basic hand tools to disassemble dash
Metri-pack crimpers, these can usually be rented from parts stores
T25 Torx bit and driver
1/4" boxed end wrench

Begin by removing the cluster bezel, lower dash kick panel, the metal bracing behind that panel and the column plastic covers. Now you should have full access to the turn signal lever and the C201 interface connector that connects the column to the body.
(New lever already installed in pic)


Now remove the turn signal lever. Forget what you've heard about removing the steering wheel and all that. First remove the top T25 Torx screw, then using the T25 and the 1/4" wrench mentioned above you can slowly but surely work the other screw out without removing the steering wheel.



Also disconnect the 3 electrical connectors on the lever.



Installation of the new switch is reverse of the removal.

Now that you have your new switch installed you simply have to run 4 wires from the large innerconnect C201 (shown below) to that small Metri-pack connector hanging from your new lever.



I started by assembling the 150 Male Metri-pack end of the harness, following the pinout from GM. If you have never crimped metri-packs don't get nervous, they are simple and im sure you will figure it out just by looking at it.




Now go out to the truck, plug in the Metri-pack to the lever and route the wires to C201, you are just checking wire length here, leave about an inch extra when you measure. Snip your wires to length, remove harness and then install a 280 series terminal on each wire.



Now reinstall harness and reroute wires to C201. Now you must disconnect C201. The connector is attached to the metal bracket and can be removed, you just have to fiddle with it until it comes off, DO NOT pry it off the metal piece, it will slide around until it comes off. Locate the gray lever on the connector, move the lever towards the firewall, this releases the locks and allows the connector to be seperated. Gently pry on the inner connector with a screw driver to release it, it should not take that much pressure to release.



C201 is actually 2 connectors in one, it seperates to form an outer and inner connector, you are concerned with the inner piece. To separate use a screwdriver again to GENTLY work the inner connector free from the outter connector. After that remove the pin locks (blue things) from the inner rectangular connector.



On the sides of the rectangular connector you will see pin location identifiers, B1-B32. You will use these to locate the proper locations for your wires. Using the diagram below you can determine what wire goes where. If you cannot determine what goes where, here you go:

GRY/BLK = B1
DK BLU = B10
BWN = B18
GRY/WHT = B32



After assembly reinstall the blue pin locks and reverse the removal to reinstall. I just reconnected C201 and let it hang for a test drive. Double check all your connections and make sure the wiring is not in a pinch zone.

You now have cruise, go out for a test drive, cruise works at 25mph minimum.

I don't know how much the option was when purchasing the truck to have cruise from the factory but I would be willing to bet it was over $200, you just did it to factory standards for around $50!

Next I work on factory steering wheel radio controls

 

excellent, thanks! Added to the stickys at the top of this section.

 

Nice write up thanks.