someotherguy

Fluid will go down slightly as the pads/shoes wear. If it was full when they were new, generally you wouldn't need to add any, as when you go to replace pads/shoes the level will go back up when you compress the caliper pistons.

The tell-tale of the failed master cylinder will be if you pull the master cylinder loose and it's wet at the back where it goes into the booster. Easy to do before you spend a dime on any parts.

Richard

therock

iTrader: (2)

Copy that on the pad wear thanks. I'm aware of that. My pads are not that old and I am a stickler about the fill level so I cam monitor at a glance. Opening her up will confirm I guess.
I loath going after the nuts under the dash for the booster. That clip on the rod to pedal is fun too.

someotherguy

It's really not that bad of a job. Took me about 1.5 hrs and I was taking it easy, and trying like hell to not spill the fluid out of the old booster and wreck the truck's paint, and also not spill it anywhere on my garage floor.

Richard

therock

iTrader: (2)

Copy that, I just loathe the job. Its the contortionist moves under the dash. I'm 6'2" 230#. I have more tools than most thank goodness. Drove her more today and its like oil on the pads. The brakes are normally pretty good. I really was thrilled when I purchased 11/2004 with GM going to the the larger rotors and drum rears impressed me. I run PFC pads up front now and they are really good braking material.
Not looking forward to the bench bleeding and such. I have a motive pressure bleeder. I just shouldn't have to be doing this again. Boo Hoo............
I'll be going in on it soon.