Solohopper

Yea, I guess it does seem that way. I am going to do it for a few reasons though. I am converting a 2wd to 4wd and will be running the exhaust on the driver's side which will run close to the ABS module on the frame rail. I will already need to move both the driver side and passenger side hard line/rubber line mount closer to the firewall to be able to go down the shock to the solid front axle. The fewer the joints, the fewer the leak possibilities and when I'm out in the boonies offroading, the fewer things that can go wrong the better. Not to mention a cleaner look with fewer lines running along the frame. :-)

I guess I shouldn't have asked the question since I already seem to have convinced myself. LOL.

MikeGyver

iTrader: (5)

You should have asked the question, but with the additional information in the above post. It almost seems like you were trying to trick someone into giving the answer that I gave.

Solohopper

bottledbird68

iTrader: (2)

I did it that way when I did mine. Came off the master into a line lock and out to a t for the front brakes. For the rear came out of the master to an aftermarket adjustable proportioning valve straight to the rear brakes. Replaced all rubber hoses with stainless and done. Zero issues. That plus the hydroboost swap, bigger 05+ fronts, four piston suv rears and the truck stopped mint. Huge improvement with zero issues.

Solohopper

bottledbird68

iTrader: (2)

I just went summit brand on both. Worked great for me. I did definitely decrease some of the rear pressure. But, I also did a hydroboost swap at the same time so that may have come into play as well

Mark Johnson

iTrader: (1)

Can I find something like that off of say a suburban in a boneyard...........

bottledbird68

iTrader: (2)

Yessir. I just got them off eBay cause I didn’t want to deal with used stuff. Need the calipers/brackets and I’m not positive if the rotors are the same or not. I just ordered new ones for the suv to make it all new when I did it.

rypatterson

I just completed this delete on my 2003 2500HD along with all now lines, calipers, and hoses - now, for some reason I can't figure out, the system will not bleed. Also replaced the MC (yes, I bench bleed it before installing). Been through several containers of fluid - anyone have any ideas? What am I missing? Thanks!

MikeGyver

iTrader: (5)

Won't bleed as in air keeps coming out of the bleeders, or what? I kept my ABS when I replaced my brake lines, I pumped the fluid in through the bleeders. It never needed additional bleeding.