Confirming info on Injector Cleaners like Seafoam
11-20-2012, 06:32 PM
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Confirming info on Injector Cleaners like Seafoam
Hey guys,
I came across this post and it talks about how pouring Seafoam through the Booster hose is not very effective and only cleaning the last 2 injectors on the back. Then he recommends using a foam product and going through the hose connected to the TB. Is this accurate??
Also, how effective is Seafoam in the oil before a an oil change?
Here is his post.
"If you pour SeaFoam or any type of fluid/foam into the brake booster line while the engine is running the ONLY two cylinders that will get any of that fluid will be the back two cylinders......the other 6 will get ZERO. The air entering the intake like a hurricane flows REARWARD.....keeping anything entering that brake booster port on the rear of the intake to be slammed against the back of the intake, then sucked straight down into the rear two cylinders. Its a physics IMPOSSIBILITY for any of it to flow forward of that rear wall.
By pouring fluid into the brake booster line you also risk hydrolocking those two cylinders.....it can happen. Not easy, but it can happen. Then you'll be buying a new engine.
So....where does all this smoke come from......this is the hilarious part that has been fooling people for years. Its the puddle of SeaFoam that ends up settling to the bottom of the intake after you stall the engine out when you pour the big gulp into the line. Then whatever is in that entire line when the engine stops also runs down the line and pools in the bottom of the intake. Then when you start it up, and things get warm.......the air ripping through the intake slowly picks up that SeaFoam puddle carrying that mist through the heads and into the cylinders....SMOKE SHOW.
The front 6 cylinders stay as dirty as they've always been......lol
So.....if you want to do a true top end cleaning you must buy a product that is made for cleaning the top end. These products are usually a FOAM. Foam cannot hydrolock the engine and most of the foam products EXPAND as it sits, allowing the foam to reach every inch of the intake and heads. Fluid cannot do this.
You must introduce this foam into the FRONT vacuum line on the passengers side of the intake. Just buy a 2 foot piece of 3/8" heater hose to use for this process. Pop it on, start the engine and spray it into the hose. I use a clear hose so I can see it foaming up in the line. This allows the FOAM to actually get carried through the entire inside of the intake and its runners along the natural air-flow of the air entering the intake....all 8 of them evenly. ONLY idle the engine during this process........NO REVVING....ever.
***Engine must be FULLY HOT when you spray it in.....not warm, not cold....HOT HOT.
You must have someone in the car ready to shut the engine down the second the can starts to get low and NOT let it run dry and then turn the engine off. If you let the can run dry the engine will suck all the foam through the engine in 1 second. Shutting the engine off as soon as the starts to get low allows the foam to remain everywhere in the top end......letting it sit and expand. 2-3 hours later...or more if you can.....you restart it and let it idle for 15 minutes. NO REVVING. Then you go for a very mellow drive for 15 minutes. NO REVVING. Then after you see NO MORE smoke coming out while driving mellow, you can then do a GRADUAL acceleration to about 60-70mph, take your foot off the gas and let it slow down to about 30mph. Then do that 2-3 more times until you feel/hear absolutely ZERO misfires, hesitation or anything that resembles roughness during those accelerations. Then do one more gradual acceleration to make damn sure its SMOOTH as glass. If it is....you're ready for a wide open throttle run........
If you go WOT to soon and you get a misfire, hesitation, detonation, roughness..........you could literally damage the engine beyond repair. Those are engine killers at WOT. So just make sure its running and accelerating smooth before WOT.....
Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner (MCCC) is easily the best product the market has ever seen, but very hard to find. Dealers sometimes have cases of it, sometimes its nowhere. I've found it on ebay many times. Its about $8.00 a can. Amazing ****.
GM brand CCC is also very good stuff. So is Yamaha outboard motor CCC, which you can get at most Yamaha dealers.
There ya go.......
SeaFoam....amazing stuff for putting into the gas tank. I pour a FULL can into 1/8 tank of gas every 3 months. Cleans the entire fuel system. You can also pour 2 cans into your oil immediately before an oil change and idle a warm engine for 10 minutes before the oil change. Never drive or rev the engine with SeaFoam in the oil. Just right before the oil change to clean all the gunk out. Spray SeaFoam is great for cleaning the TB, linkages, cables, IAT sensor, IAC sensor, etc......"
I came across this post and it talks about how pouring Seafoam through the Booster hose is not very effective and only cleaning the last 2 injectors on the back. Then he recommends using a foam product and going through the hose connected to the TB. Is this accurate??
Also, how effective is Seafoam in the oil before a an oil change?
Here is his post.
"If you pour SeaFoam or any type of fluid/foam into the brake booster line while the engine is running the ONLY two cylinders that will get any of that fluid will be the back two cylinders......the other 6 will get ZERO. The air entering the intake like a hurricane flows REARWARD.....keeping anything entering that brake booster port on the rear of the intake to be slammed against the back of the intake, then sucked straight down into the rear two cylinders. Its a physics IMPOSSIBILITY for any of it to flow forward of that rear wall.
By pouring fluid into the brake booster line you also risk hydrolocking those two cylinders.....it can happen. Not easy, but it can happen. Then you'll be buying a new engine.
So....where does all this smoke come from......this is the hilarious part that has been fooling people for years. Its the puddle of SeaFoam that ends up settling to the bottom of the intake after you stall the engine out when you pour the big gulp into the line. Then whatever is in that entire line when the engine stops also runs down the line and pools in the bottom of the intake. Then when you start it up, and things get warm.......the air ripping through the intake slowly picks up that SeaFoam puddle carrying that mist through the heads and into the cylinders....SMOKE SHOW.
The front 6 cylinders stay as dirty as they've always been......lol
So.....if you want to do a true top end cleaning you must buy a product that is made for cleaning the top end. These products are usually a FOAM. Foam cannot hydrolock the engine and most of the foam products EXPAND as it sits, allowing the foam to reach every inch of the intake and heads. Fluid cannot do this.
You must introduce this foam into the FRONT vacuum line on the passengers side of the intake. Just buy a 2 foot piece of 3/8" heater hose to use for this process. Pop it on, start the engine and spray it into the hose. I use a clear hose so I can see it foaming up in the line. This allows the FOAM to actually get carried through the entire inside of the intake and its runners along the natural air-flow of the air entering the intake....all 8 of them evenly. ONLY idle the engine during this process........NO REVVING....ever.
***Engine must be FULLY HOT when you spray it in.....not warm, not cold....HOT HOT.
You must have someone in the car ready to shut the engine down the second the can starts to get low and NOT let it run dry and then turn the engine off. If you let the can run dry the engine will suck all the foam through the engine in 1 second. Shutting the engine off as soon as the starts to get low allows the foam to remain everywhere in the top end......letting it sit and expand. 2-3 hours later...or more if you can.....you restart it and let it idle for 15 minutes. NO REVVING. Then you go for a very mellow drive for 15 minutes. NO REVVING. Then after you see NO MORE smoke coming out while driving mellow, you can then do a GRADUAL acceleration to about 60-70mph, take your foot off the gas and let it slow down to about 30mph. Then do that 2-3 more times until you feel/hear absolutely ZERO misfires, hesitation or anything that resembles roughness during those accelerations. Then do one more gradual acceleration to make damn sure its SMOOTH as glass. If it is....you're ready for a wide open throttle run........
If you go WOT to soon and you get a misfire, hesitation, detonation, roughness..........you could literally damage the engine beyond repair. Those are engine killers at WOT. So just make sure its running and accelerating smooth before WOT.....
Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner (MCCC) is easily the best product the market has ever seen, but very hard to find. Dealers sometimes have cases of it, sometimes its nowhere. I've found it on ebay many times. Its about $8.00 a can. Amazing ****.
GM brand CCC is also very good stuff. So is Yamaha outboard motor CCC, which you can get at most Yamaha dealers.
There ya go.......
SeaFoam....amazing stuff for putting into the gas tank. I pour a FULL can into 1/8 tank of gas every 3 months. Cleans the entire fuel system. You can also pour 2 cans into your oil immediately before an oil change and idle a warm engine for 10 minutes before the oil change. Never drive or rev the engine with SeaFoam in the oil. Just right before the oil change to clean all the gunk out. Spray SeaFoam is great for cleaning the TB, linkages, cables, IAT sensor, IAC sensor, etc......"
11-20-2012, 06:50 PM
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I posted this on a few places so hopefully I'll get some feedback.
No sense suing seafoam and only cleaning the last 2 injectors using the booster hose.
R.
11-20-2012, 07:06 PM
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It will not touch any injector at all if you introduce it into the air stream. Putting it into the engine through the brake booster vacuum hose, or another vacuum port, can only possibly clean the valves or combustion chambers. If you want to clean the injectors, you have to put the product into your fuel tank.
11-20-2012, 07:22 PM
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It will not touch any injector at all if you introduce it into the air stream. Putting it into the engine through the brake booster vacuum hose, or another vacuum port, can only possibly clean the valves or combustion chambers. If you want to clean the injectors, you have to put the product into your fuel tank.
11-20-2012, 08:13 PM
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The person who posted that is inferring that the brake booster line is the only way to introduce it, when it's actually a poor vacuum source for the most part.
Most intake manifolds will have a few vacuum ports that will have varying degrees of effectiveness, but keeping the engine revved will definitely keep the fluid in suspension and mix better with the plenum air, which is usually open to all cylinders.
Mopar CCC is a good product, but getting to spray it directly past an open throttle blade with MAF sensor vehicles tends to make them run like absolute $hit (unless I'm missing something? LOL) but it's a good product nonetheless, we had a case of it at the shop in trade school.
I've used water in the exact same way to keep clean engines even cleaner (kinda like water injection) and i've done it on a large variety of vehicles and haven't had a single issue with it. Just get it to full operating temperature and keep the RPM's high and you can practically see the carbon chunks spewing out the exhaust.
Most intake manifolds will have a few vacuum ports that will have varying degrees of effectiveness, but keeping the engine revved will definitely keep the fluid in suspension and mix better with the plenum air, which is usually open to all cylinders.
Mopar CCC is a good product, but getting to spray it directly past an open throttle blade with MAF sensor vehicles tends to make them run like absolute $hit (unless I'm missing something? LOL) but it's a good product nonetheless, we had a case of it at the shop in trade school.
I've used water in the exact same way to keep clean engines even cleaner (kinda like water injection) and i've done it on a large variety of vehicles and haven't had a single issue with it. Just get it to full operating temperature and keep the RPM's high and you can practically see the carbon chunks spewing out the exhaust.
11-20-2012, 08:26 PM
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The person who posted that is inferring that the brake booster line is the only way to introduce it, when it's actually a poor vacuum source for the most part.
Most intake manifolds will have a few vacuum ports that will have varying degrees of effectiveness, but keeping the engine revved will definitely keep the fluid in suspension and mix better with the plenum air, which is usually open to all cylinders.
Mopar CCC is a good product, but getting to spray it directly past an open throttle blade with MAF sensor vehicles tends to make them run like absolute $hit (unless I'm missing something? LOL) but it's a good product nonetheless, we had a case of it at the shop in trade school.
I've used water in the exact same way to keep clean engines even cleaner (kinda like water injection) and i've done it on a large variety of vehicles and haven't had a single issue with it. Just get it to full operating temperature and keep the RPM's high and you can practically see the carbon chunks spewing out the exhaust.
Most intake manifolds will have a few vacuum ports that will have varying degrees of effectiveness, but keeping the engine revved will definitely keep the fluid in suspension and mix better with the plenum air, which is usually open to all cylinders.
Mopar CCC is a good product, but getting to spray it directly past an open throttle blade with MAF sensor vehicles tends to make them run like absolute $hit (unless I'm missing something? LOL) but it's a good product nonetheless, we had a case of it at the shop in trade school.
I've used water in the exact same way to keep clean engines even cleaner (kinda like water injection) and i've done it on a large variety of vehicles and haven't had a single issue with it. Just get it to full operating temperature and keep the RPM's high and you can practically see the carbon chunks spewing out the exhaust.
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11-21-2012, 08:45 AM
#8
I've used water in the exact same way to keep clean engines even cleaner (kinda like water injection) and i've done it on a large variety of vehicles and haven't had a single issue with it. Just get it to full operating temperature and keep the RPM's high and you can practically see the carbon chunks spewing out the exhaust.
