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#2
#6
Sorry to hear this.
I wouldn't pop the cover just yet...
- You won't be able to see anything. In the 10.5" all the working bits are concealed between the two bolted halves.
- You do not run the risk of losing an axle shaft as you would if you had a semi-float rear with c-clips.
- To move the truck after dropping the cover you'd have to put it all back together and refill with fluid.
The fluid is probably not all that bad. There's a magnet in the bottom the case which should keep the bigger stuff out of the ring and pinion. Hopefully the breakage was just the centrifugal flyweight shaft and you're just hearing it crunch around in the spider gears when you turn.
Good luck. Cast my vote for an Eaton Posi. The one I have works like the day it was new even seeing the torque of 4.56 gears on it. When you add fluid to a 10.5" Eaton Posi, use only 80/90 mineral-based gear oil and one and a half bottles of friction modifier.
I wouldn't pop the cover just yet...
- You won't be able to see anything. In the 10.5" all the working bits are concealed between the two bolted halves.
- You do not run the risk of losing an axle shaft as you would if you had a semi-float rear with c-clips.
- To move the truck after dropping the cover you'd have to put it all back together and refill with fluid.
The fluid is probably not all that bad. There's a magnet in the bottom the case which should keep the bigger stuff out of the ring and pinion. Hopefully the breakage was just the centrifugal flyweight shaft and you're just hearing it crunch around in the spider gears when you turn.
Good luck. Cast my vote for an Eaton Posi. The one I have works like the day it was new even seeing the torque of 4.56 gears on it. When you add fluid to a 10.5" Eaton Posi, use only 80/90 mineral-based gear oil and one and a half bottles of friction modifier.
#7
Originally Posted by James B.
Sorry to hear this.
I wouldn't pop the cover just yet...
- You won't be able to see anything. In the 10.5" all the working bits are concealed between the two bolted halves.
- You do not run the risk of losing an axle shaft as you would if you had a semi-float rear with c-clips.
- To move the truck after dropping the cover you'd have to put it all back together and refill with fluid.
The fluid is probably not all that bad. There's a magnet in the bottom the case which should keep the bigger stuff out of the ring and pinion. Hopefully the breakage was just the centrifugal flyweight shaft and you're just hearing it crunch around in the spider gears when you turn.
Good luck. Cast my vote for an Eaton Posi. The one I have works like the day it was new even seeing the torque of 4.56 gears on it. When you add fluid to a 10.5" Eaton Posi, use only 80/90 mineral-based gear oil and one and a half bottles of friction modifier.
I wouldn't pop the cover just yet...
- You won't be able to see anything. In the 10.5" all the working bits are concealed between the two bolted halves.
- You do not run the risk of losing an axle shaft as you would if you had a semi-float rear with c-clips.
- To move the truck after dropping the cover you'd have to put it all back together and refill with fluid.
The fluid is probably not all that bad. There's a magnet in the bottom the case which should keep the bigger stuff out of the ring and pinion. Hopefully the breakage was just the centrifugal flyweight shaft and you're just hearing it crunch around in the spider gears when you turn.
Good luck. Cast my vote for an Eaton Posi. The one I have works like the day it was new even seeing the torque of 4.56 gears on it. When you add fluid to a 10.5" Eaton Posi, use only 80/90 mineral-based gear oil and one and a half bottles of friction modifier.
Did you install this yourself or have it done? I think we had this convo before and you said you had it done, but that might have been in conjuction with the ring and pinion.
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#8
Originally Posted by moregrip
Hey James, thanks for the help on the tranny 

Originally Posted by moregrip
Did you install this yourself or have it done?...
Right now it's apart actually. The work that Drive Train Direct in Corona did turned out to be flawed. There's no problem with anything int he center section but I had a bearing come undone because the retaining collar on that shaft moved. It chewed up everything pretty bad, lots of damge. I think it was caused from sliding around some corners the previous day. It should have handled that, I mean come on. By the way DTD wated absolutely nothing to do with the repairs to their work. They would not help me at all and had a dozen excuses. They've basically become a company of unskilled assemblers of off-the-shelf Dana parts and lost their customization and fabrication DNA with the previous generation. Not a good company to do business with.
The place it's at now is The Gear Shop, owned by Gary Downs. He recently bought Tom's Differentials and has moved his shop to the Tom's location where both shops are now combined. Unfortunately my misfortune struck as he was still in the process of moving, so it's taking an agonizingly long time. All the fabrication with the new ends is done to the housing, it's pretty much just waiting for assembly and some new brakes at this point. I'm upgrading from the 10" OEM brakes to the 2500 11" brakes. The 10" ones on the OBS are worthless, so this is worth the added time.
It was quite a mess - everything pictured here is a total loss.
http://james.jaguar.net/pics/bearings1-full.jpg
http://james.jaguar.net/pics/bearings2.jpg
This will be rebuilt, old DTD ends hacked off and new ends from The Gear Shop welded on...
http://james.jaguar.net/pics/14bolt-out.jpg
The new axles ahfts and brakes are being left as 6-lug this time. The wheels I have are available in 6-lug, but they're 17x8.5" instead of 16x7" like the 5-lug ones from the Tahoe Limited. I've already solved that and think it looks good. Tires are Yokohama 245/70 R16 for the front, 285/60 R17 for the rear...
http://james.jaguar.net/pics/Ronal16-17d.jpg
http://james.jaguar.net/pics/yokos1.jpg
http://james.jaguar.net/pics/yokos2.jpg
http://james.jaguar.net/pics/yokos3.jpg
I hope I'm not getting off-topic with your thread but I just thought you might take comfort in knowning this stuff happens to all of us with real power.
#9
Originally Posted by James B.
You're welcome, I'm glad I could help.
When I had the rear end built I had the Eaton Posi and 4.56 gears already in the specs. It was all put together at the same time.
Right now it's apart actually. The work that Drive Train Direct in Corona did turned out to be flawed. There's no problem with anything int he center section but I had a bearing come undone because the retaining collar on that shaft moved. It chewed up everything pretty bad, lots of damge. I think it was caused from sliding around some corners the previous day. It should have handled that, I mean come on. By the way DTD wated absolutely nothing to do with the repairs to their work. They would not help me at all and had a dozen excuses. They've basically become a company of unskilled assemblers of off-the-shelf Dana parts and lost their customization and fabrication DNA with the previous generation. Not a good company to do business with.
The place it's at now is The Gear Shop, owned by Gary Downs. He recently bought Tom's Differentials and has moved his shop to the Tom's location where both shops are now combined. Unfortunately my misfortune struck as he was still in the process of moving, so it's taking an agonizingly long time. All the fabrication with the new ends is done to the housing, it's pretty much just waiting for assembly and some new brakes at this point. I'm upgrading from the 10" OEM brakes to the 2500 11" brakes. The 10" ones on the OBS are worthless, so this is worth the added time.
It was quite a mess - everything pictured here is a total loss.
http://james.jaguar.net/pics/bearings1-full.jpg
http://james.jaguar.net/pics/bearings2.jpg
This will be rebuilt, old DTD ends hacked off and new ends from The Gear Shop welded on...
http://james.jaguar.net/pics/14bolt-out.jpg
The new axles ahfts and brakes are being left as 6-lug this time. The wheels I have are available in 6-lug, but they're 17x8.5" instead of 16x7" like the 5-lug ones from the Tahoe Limited. I've already solved that and think it looks good. Tires are Yokohama 245/70 R16 for the front, 285/60 R17 for the rear...
http://james.jaguar.net/pics/Ronal16-17d.jpg
http://james.jaguar.net/pics/yokos1.jpg
http://james.jaguar.net/pics/yokos2.jpg
http://james.jaguar.net/pics/yokos3.jpg
I hope I'm not getting off-topic with your thread but I just thought you might take comfort in knowning this stuff happens to all of us with real power.
When I had the rear end built I had the Eaton Posi and 4.56 gears already in the specs. It was all put together at the same time.
Right now it's apart actually. The work that Drive Train Direct in Corona did turned out to be flawed. There's no problem with anything int he center section but I had a bearing come undone because the retaining collar on that shaft moved. It chewed up everything pretty bad, lots of damge. I think it was caused from sliding around some corners the previous day. It should have handled that, I mean come on. By the way DTD wated absolutely nothing to do with the repairs to their work. They would not help me at all and had a dozen excuses. They've basically become a company of unskilled assemblers of off-the-shelf Dana parts and lost their customization and fabrication DNA with the previous generation. Not a good company to do business with.
The place it's at now is The Gear Shop, owned by Gary Downs. He recently bought Tom's Differentials and has moved his shop to the Tom's location where both shops are now combined. Unfortunately my misfortune struck as he was still in the process of moving, so it's taking an agonizingly long time. All the fabrication with the new ends is done to the housing, it's pretty much just waiting for assembly and some new brakes at this point. I'm upgrading from the 10" OEM brakes to the 2500 11" brakes. The 10" ones on the OBS are worthless, so this is worth the added time.
It was quite a mess - everything pictured here is a total loss.
http://james.jaguar.net/pics/bearings1-full.jpg
http://james.jaguar.net/pics/bearings2.jpg
This will be rebuilt, old DTD ends hacked off and new ends from The Gear Shop welded on...
http://james.jaguar.net/pics/14bolt-out.jpg
The new axles ahfts and brakes are being left as 6-lug this time. The wheels I have are available in 6-lug, but they're 17x8.5" instead of 16x7" like the 5-lug ones from the Tahoe Limited. I've already solved that and think it looks good. Tires are Yokohama 245/70 R16 for the front, 285/60 R17 for the rear...
http://james.jaguar.net/pics/Ronal16-17d.jpg
http://james.jaguar.net/pics/yokos1.jpg
http://james.jaguar.net/pics/yokos2.jpg
http://james.jaguar.net/pics/yokos3.jpg
I hope I'm not getting off-topic with your thread but I just thought you might take comfort in knowning this stuff happens to all of us with real power.
lol, I remember visiting Tom's Differential almost 15yrs ago as a teenager looking for a rearend for my 67 ImpalaSS.
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