Ok, well after my first failed attempt at installing the Bosch 040 true intank pump I did more research and found out some IMPORTANT things that I had skipped. First and foremost I had no way of regulating the fuel pressure of the pump since my 05 is a returnless fuel system just like many others out there that want to build a better fuel system but cant. Maybe my trial and error will be able to help you returnless fuel systems guys out. First I will start with my first attempt to show you what not to do unless you are going to run return rails, fuel pressure regulator, and fuel line.



As you can see in these pictures I cut the bucket some and the inner bucket also to hold the fuel pump. I also used some clamps to hold the fuel pump in the bucket secure by making a couple notches with the dremel. Then I cut the fuel pump harness and put a couple ring terminals on the ends to connect to the fuel pump. I then used a metric thread to a an fitting connected to an an to 5/16th hose barb for my fuel supply hose. I then ran the 5/16th high pressure fuel hose to the top of my sending unit where the fuel line was connected before hand. NOW TO SAVE YOU SOME TIME, DO NOT DO ALL OF THIS LIKE I DID UNLESS YOU WANT TO MODIFY AND RUN A RETURN STYLE FUEL SYSTEM.

 

some more pics of the modified bucket and finished product

 

Ok now for the modifications from what I had already done to something that is going to work with my fuel system. On the returnless style fuel systems the filter in the bucket has the fuel regulator connected to it. You need the filter and regulator assembly, your stock fuel line from your stock pump to your filter and regulator assembly, and the stock fuel line from the filter to the top of the sending unit where the fuel goes out. Magnuson makes the clear collated fuel hose that you will need to order one of for a few bucks plus shipping. Also make sure that you get the metric thread to an straight adapter and the an to hose barb fittings mentioned above. DO NOT CUT THE HOSE FROM THE FILTER ASSEMBLY TO THE TOP OF THE SENDING UNIT. YOU WILL BE ABLE TO REUSE THIS INSTEAD OF DOING WHAT I DID WITH THE BLACK FUEL HOSE. back to this in a little bit

Ok so you should now have all the parts you need to make it all work for you. Now you need a blow dryer and a dremel. Ok now you take the dremel and hack off the bottom part of the fuel bucket where I had the hose clamps all the way up to where it is flush with the other side so no extension is hanging down making sure not to hack of the tab that locks the inner bucket to the outer bucket. The fuel pump is then going to go in the oposite side that it is in on picture 3 of the first post in this thread where the original pump sat. Test fit the new pump pushing it up from the bottom and you will get an idea of what needs to be cut out to fit the new pump in there. Make sure that you test fit it with the filter and regulator in their original position to get a better idea. So by now you should see that you have to enlarge the hole for the pump by cutting just a little larger circle on each side. One where it goes just into the small hole that the tube that the regulator goes up to and the other on the other side of the hole. To make the pump fit in better I also took the flat spot off the side of the inner bucket that you will notice makes the pump kick out just a little. Ok so your bucket should be modified up enough now to make it all fit toghether. Now lets get our plumbing done.

Ok so first we are going to take our fitting and screw it into the pump and then screw the barb fitting onto it. Take your filter and regulator assembly and locate it to your stock position into your inner bucket and then slide your pump into your original location from the bottom till it is flush with the top of your filter and everything looks good. Now you are going to place your inner bucket into your outer bucket. You may have to wiggle it just a little to get it past a lip and lock it into the outer bucket. once it is locked down everything should be pretty tight in it and nothing can move around. Make sure that your O-ring for your regulator is located on the nipple that goes into that tube. Ok now you take the clear tube you got from magnuson and the hair dryer and heat the end of it up. When it is well heated then take that hose and push it onto the end of the hose barb of the end of the pump as much as possible. Then when its on heat again and create a vacuum on the end of the hose by sucking on it so the plastic seals around the barbs well. Finish it off with a hose clamp for good measure. So you should have a hose hanging from you fuel pump now and one hanging from the top of your sending unit. Also you have a hose that is connected to your stock fuel pump. On the end of the hose of the stock fuel pump there is a plastic fitting connected to it. If you take a sharp razor you can carefully slice through the hose where it is attached to that fitting. There will be barbs where that hose is connected to the fitting. Once you have that fitting disconnected from the line throw that hose to the side it is not needed now. Now take that fitting and connect it to the clear magnuson hose and then plug into the stock port of the fuel filter assembly that that barb fit into which is the smaller port of the two plastic fittings. Make sure that your oring is on the plastic fitting. Now take your hose that is hanging off the top of the sending unit with the other plastic fitting and oring and plug that into its original port. If you want you can take 5/16th high pressure fuel hose like I did and repeat the steps of cutting the hose off the top nipple of the sending unit and the plastic fitting and connect it to the two like I did but its an extra step that I used because I messed up the first time. Now make sure that your electrical connections are right and you should end up with a high volume pump that is regulated by the stock gm fuel pressure regulator. Total cost for me was about 125 for the pump, 15 for fittings, 10 for the hose from Magnuson,and about 4 hours worth of work. Sorry for the lack of pictures of the actual work. I was in such a hurry I forgot to snap more pics.

Hopefully this will be helpfull enough for people that dont have 1000 dollars to pay someone to put a larger pump. Cheers

 

Ok, not to be critical here, but let me throw in my 2 cents. First, why do all that work, and still have everything have to go thru the tiny orifaces in the filter/reg unit. You can also adjust the reg to gain a little more pressure. With the bigger Bosch pump, you had to cut the bucket open in the bottom, now you may lose the ability to keep the pump completely submerged. There's 2, or 3 little 1 way flapper vallves in the bottom of the bucket that let fuel in, and also the bucket is kept full by the return from the reg. The returnless system is actually a pretty well engineered system as it comes from the factory, but getting it to feed more hp is a big hurdle, without going to a complete return style system, which you ( and me, too) will eventually have to go to. Plus.........there's just no room to run a return fitting, and keep the EVAP system. I certainly appreciate you efforts to help us get to the bigger hp numbers. Maybe if a few of us put our heads together, we can come up with a solution.

Also......it's not just as easy as using an 03 and down bucket because it is a completely different size, so that's out.

 

I'm thinking a setup like Joe at Left Coast is running on his TBSS may be the best solution on a returnless system unless you are making some crazy power.

https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...system&page=18

 

To answer a few things, all of the fuel being pumped does not go thru the regulator. It acts like a pressure relief valve and lets just enough fuel to keep the pressure at the setpoint of the regulator. So if you can keep a lower pressure and still have enough fuel supply why bump the pressure up? It does go through the filter though which from looking at it does not look to be a major restriction and no matter what you do you need a filter. The problem that most people in the higher ranges of horsepower i believe are having for fuel supply mostly come from the stock pump not being able to keep up or failing. I did open the bucket up, and the effect of that is that I need to keep 1/4 tank of gas as much as possible. As far as running out of fuel for the pump with the large hole in the bottom of the bucket, I dont believe that it will run out of supply anytime soon for the pump. If you did want to make it a return system, there is a place on the top of the fuel sending unit that has about half dollar sized area where a bulkhead could be used for a return fitting. if you look at the underside of the top of the sending unit you will see the circle in the plastic I am speaking of. To me this was a cheaper and way more cost effective way of replacing a stock pump even if someone is not doing it for higher hp#'s. I do need to get a fuel pressure gauge so I can see if I am loosing any pressure under full load. Just funds are low for a full time student with a full time job in sales, and a family to take care of. I think if more people did even try to get in there like a few of us have done that we can deffinately improve on everything I have done. My ideas are just a starting point.

 

I was trying not to spend $1000 or more and keep the stock tank instead of a full stand alone system. If I wanted to do that I could just buy a fuel cell locate it in the bed and put a huge inline pump on it with a return line and FPR.