Which is better? Alternator or 2nd Battery?
#1
In regards to building a big audio system, would I be better off to:
1) Replace the stock alternator with high output version and replace the battery with a red top?
or
2) Add second battery (red top) with ignition controlled relay? (This is how I did my Durango)
or both?
I have a 2003 Tahoe.
The components are:
3.5 farad capacitor
JL 300/4 amp
JL 500/1 amp
1) Replace the stock alternator with high output version and replace the battery with a red top?
or
2) Add second battery (red top) with ignition controlled relay? (This is how I did my Durango)
or both?
I have a 2003 Tahoe.
The components are:
3.5 farad capacitor
JL 300/4 amp
JL 500/1 amp
#3
i use to work at auto radio in memphis and me and a few guys built a little toyota ext can that had 8 big commercial bulldozer batteries and they were being run off of a battery isolator and a stock 80amp alternator. with a wall of amps and that little alternator the volt meter never saw below 13.4 volts. do the batteries you wont be disappointed.
#4
8 batts and a stock 80amp alt?? that's just going about it the wrong way imo.
instead of running mult batts off a stock, 105 amp alt...get a good, high output alt. there are plenty of aftermarket alternators that will bolt in the stock location that will handle your power needs.
instead of running mult batts off a stock, 105 amp alt...get a good, high output alt. there are plenty of aftermarket alternators that will bolt in the stock location that will handle your power needs.
#5
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Whats you goal?
1. Do you plan on running your car stereo with the engine off for an extended period of time?
OR
2. Do you want to not have dimming headlights and want to ensure that your amps get the most current possible?
For Choice #1, it's obvious, batteries. For Choice two it's obvious as your alternator runs the car when the car is running.
I would suggest to you to get a larger alternator. You can see about getting the factory high out put one if you are not currently equipped with it. It's cheaper then an aftermarket one.
Also do not forget to upgrade the big three for any audio install!
1. Do you plan on running your car stereo with the engine off for an extended period of time?
OR
2. Do you want to not have dimming headlights and want to ensure that your amps get the most current possible?
For Choice #1, it's obvious, batteries. For Choice two it's obvious as your alternator runs the car when the car is running.
I would suggest to you to get a larger alternator. You can see about getting the factory high out put one if you are not currently equipped with it. It's cheaper then an aftermarket one.
Also do not forget to upgrade the big three for any audio install!
#6
how big of a system are you planning on doing. like 10,000wattsrms or are you going to have a typical 2 channel for your subs and a 4 channel for your front and rears? if you are going to go with a typical 2 amp setup do the battery with an isolator if anything. you can go to a larger charge wire from the alt to the batt. and add another ground from the batt to the frame. if you are going to go 2 amps then run a large wire to the rear and use a distribution block and make sure your ground wires from the amp to the frame are the same size as your hot wire to the amp. if you do a larger alternator it will cause more drag and if not a quality alt. it can cause some system noise. give us some model numbers of amps and how big you plan on going with your system so we can better help you but a big 150A alt. on a typical system is a waste.
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#8
As mentioned, the main components are: JL 300/4 amp and JL 500/1 amp. I have a 3.5 farad cap bank also.
In my Durango, I had a stock 135A alternator, red-top up front, yellow-top in rear (isolated by a 200A contactor switch), 3.5 farad cap running these 2 amps. It was a great system.
I was planning on using the exact same setup. Then I found a 210A alternator (mine is the 145A). I was about to pull the trigger and get the alternator also, then I thought maybe I could do one or the other instead of both. The alt is a Delphi direct bolt-on. Obviously, I know both would be best. Just wondering if it was overkill. But then again I usually overbuild things anyway.
My goal is to always have plenty of power for my amps without taxing the whole system. Not interested in running the stereo when the truck is off.
I think I know the answer.
In my Durango, I had a stock 135A alternator, red-top up front, yellow-top in rear (isolated by a 200A contactor switch), 3.5 farad cap running these 2 amps. It was a great system.
I was planning on using the exact same setup. Then I found a 210A alternator (mine is the 145A). I was about to pull the trigger and get the alternator also, then I thought maybe I could do one or the other instead of both. The alt is a Delphi direct bolt-on. Obviously, I know both would be best. Just wondering if it was overkill. But then again I usually overbuild things anyway.
My goal is to always have plenty of power for my amps without taxing the whole system. Not interested in running the stereo when the truck is off.
I think I know the answer.



