Advice on buying truck
#1
I'm going to be in the market for a full size Chevy hopefully in the next couple months. I've wanted one for years but I'd like to finally get one.
My budget is going to be around $8K give or take some. I prefer the 03+ look. I love the look of the RCSB, but an ECSB is probably the best choice for me with two kids.
My goal is to have a fun daily driver that is quicker than the Hemi Ram I had several years ago. Finally I'll get to the real question. I see some trucks selling for $10-11k with 100k miles. Then I see some closer to 150k miles for $6k.
I'm thinking since I want to mod it anyway I might as well buy the cheaper truck and save my money for a built transmission/engine mods. I'd like to be solidly in the 13's one day and I figure I'd be replacing parts anyway.
That's all I think I know what I should do I just wanted to hear your thoughts or experiences.
My budget is going to be around $8K give or take some. I prefer the 03+ look. I love the look of the RCSB, but an ECSB is probably the best choice for me with two kids.
My goal is to have a fun daily driver that is quicker than the Hemi Ram I had several years ago. Finally I'll get to the real question. I see some trucks selling for $10-11k with 100k miles. Then I see some closer to 150k miles for $6k.
I'm thinking since I want to mod it anyway I might as well buy the cheaper truck and save my money for a built transmission/engine mods. I'd like to be solidly in the 13's one day and I figure I'd be replacing parts anyway.
That's all I think I know what I should do I just wanted to hear your thoughts or experiences.
#3
I kind of plan on doing a cam, stall, LT's, and a tune. If the valvetrain is a weak point I'd have that covered.
I know any older vehicle is going to have certain issues (suspension parts, etc.) I probably wouldn't be modding right away but it would definitely be in the works.
I guess I am wondering if it's worth paying a premium for lower mileage (80-120k) or save some cash and buy a 150k mile truck and have more mod money.
I know any older vehicle is going to have certain issues (suspension parts, etc.) I probably wouldn't be modding right away but it would definitely be in the works.
I guess I am wondering if it's worth paying a premium for lower mileage (80-120k) or save some cash and buy a 150k mile truck and have more mod money.
#4
I would find the best overall condition truck for the money. I have seen nice trucks with Smoked transmissions and filthy engines and vice versa.
I wouldn't worry about the milage, Just make sure it was well taken care of both physically and mechanically for what you're gonna spend.
I wouldn't worry about the milage, Just make sure it was well taken care of both physically and mechanically for what you're gonna spend.
#6
Valve train is an issue, not not nearly as bad as the transmission in my opinion. That being said, I currently have 2 Tahoes NBS Tahoes in my driveway. One just broke 224K and the other will hit 300K in the next month or 2. Both are daily drivers and both pull my car and trailer. They are both 100% factory. No transmission issues or no top end issues, unless you consider the common cold start lifter tap to be a problem.
Once a transmission goes out, the 4l80e swap is fairly inexpensive and easy to do. If you plan on a converter swap... might as well do the 80e swap while you are in there.
If you plan on a cam swap, might as well do the lifters while you are doing it. This is of course assuming that you are doing springs and pushrods with the new cam swap. I would do a set of Morel lifters over the typical LS7 lifter.
So.... I guess if you are planning on modding, the cheaper truck with more miles would probably be the way I would go. These things can run forever if properly cared for. Hope that helps and good luck in your search!
Once a transmission goes out, the 4l80e swap is fairly inexpensive and easy to do. If you plan on a converter swap... might as well do the 80e swap while you are in there.
If you plan on a cam swap, might as well do the lifters while you are doing it. This is of course assuming that you are doing springs and pushrods with the new cam swap. I would do a set of Morel lifters over the typical LS7 lifter.
So.... I guess if you are planning on modding, the cheaper truck with more miles would probably be the way I would go. These things can run forever if properly cared for. Hope that helps and good luck in your search!
#7
Valve train is an issue, not not nearly as bad as the transmission in my opinion. That being said, I currently have 2 Tahoes NBS Tahoes in my driveway. One just broke 224K and the other will hit 300K in the next month or 2. Both are daily drivers and both pull my car and trailer. They are both 100% factory. No transmission issues or no top end issues, unless you consider the common cold start lifter tap to be a problem.
Once a transmission goes out, the 4l80e swap is fairly inexpensive and easy to do. If you plan on a converter swap... might as well do the 80e swap while you are in there.
If you plan on a cam swap, might as well do the lifters while you are doing it. This is of course assuming that you are doing springs and pushrods with the new cam swap. I would do a set of Morel lifters over the typical LS7 lifter.
So.... I guess if you are planning on modding, the cheaper truck with more miles would probably be the way I would go. These things can run forever if properly cared for. Hope that helps and good luck in your search!
Once a transmission goes out, the 4l80e swap is fairly inexpensive and easy to do. If you plan on a converter swap... might as well do the 80e swap while you are in there.
If you plan on a cam swap, might as well do the lifters while you are doing it. This is of course assuming that you are doing springs and pushrods with the new cam swap. I would do a set of Morel lifters over the typical LS7 lifter.
So.... I guess if you are planning on modding, the cheaper truck with more miles would probably be the way I would go. These things can run forever if properly cared for. Hope that helps and good luck in your search!
When you say inexpensive are you putting in a take out 4L80E from a junkyard/running vehicle? The rebuilt 4L80Es I found online seem to be pretty pricey to me. 3K? What do you think is the estimated cost to do it?
Trending Topics
#8
Sorry, I should have clarified that. Mine came from a running box truck but I lucked out. It was a fresh reman. I bought the LY6 and 80e combo for $1000. You can find them used in a junk yard or on LS1tech for $400-$600. You can buy a mildly built one from Jakes Performance in the 3K range. I'd guess you could buy a used one and drop the pan. If it looks good with no metal or isn't extremely burnt, I'd toss it in but that's just me.
#9
Sorry, I should have clarified that. Mine came from a running box truck but I lucked out. It was a fresh reman. I bought the LY6 and 80e combo for $1000. You can find them used in a junk yard or on LS1tech for $400-$600. You can buy a mildly built one from Jakes Performance in the 3K range. I'd guess you could buy a used one and drop the pan. If it looks good with no metal or isn't extremely burnt, I'd toss it in but that's just me.

Thanks!






