arthursc2

iTrader: (5)

You dont need to drain the oil

I like OEM parts, I buy AC Delco where available, unless a better aftermarket option exists

Cant speak to the smog, but trucks are easy to cam. If it takes you 4hrs your first time (for a no springs required cam) I would be surprised

Prinler

Well, Im reading so much my eyes are ready to bleed.
I was on TSP youtube looking at their "TSP Stage 2 High Lift 212/218 .600"/.600" Truck Camshaft" and "TSP Stage 2 Low Lift 212/218, .550"/.550" Truck Camshaft" videos, yes its on a 5.3L not a 6.0L, but the end results at the lower RPM where ill spend most of my time in are LOW.
3.3hp and 7.9tq at 2200 rpm... Thats where i tow now. Low 2000's. Not to mention the expensive costs oh tuning the truck after, other parts I will replace since i have them off anyway.
Is this really worth the small gains? Am i completely missing the point? Someone slap me with some reality please.

arthursc2

iTrader: (5)

Its hard to improve the OE torque curve. I actually dont know of a cam that makes more torque off idle than the stock cam. A way around that is a higher stall. I am not a higher stall fan, I like stock stalls. The smaller the cam, the smaller the converter can be

However, you dont, wont and arent spending your time in the low RPMs. You made this thread saying you had it floored at 6k and 35mph. The stock cam is done for by 5500, and certainly by 6000. Not to mention the downward timing table that high in the range. So basically as it sits, your rig cannot perform how you need it to, whether that be because it needs some TLC or some breathing mods

I estimate that you will however be spending your time 2500-3500rpm, and on up depending on the grade and gear you need to climb it (lets not forget you've already been to 6k, just on 1 trip)

How you spend your money is up to you, I am not here to twist your wrist or break your ankle on it. You can cam and tune the truck for ~1000. Maybe 1300 depending on the tune cost. And you'd be hard pressed to find 50hp cheaper than that. You can boost it stock and spend less $/hp, but you'll be spending more money overall. I think I got my cam/spring kit NOS for ~250, paid my tuner 550 (350 tune, 100 HP Credits, 100 dyno rental) and I did the cam install myself

You came to us with suggestions, we have given you some

If you dont like them, thats ok. But be forewarned this game is not free. Even a gear change requires a tune so she will shift appropriately and ABS will still function

Gears and cam will help, but it may not be enough for what you need. Perhaps if you want to absolutely stay stock and never open it up its time to look into an 8.1 truck, or a 6.6

Prinler

I dont want to come across as ungrateful, or trying to be excessively cheap. I really do read this, try my best to absorb what you guys are throwing down. There is smart money and dumb money. I could spend $700 on a cai to gain single digit hp or $100 on a m.i.t. and do the same thing. Id absolutely love to boost this toad but I dont owe anyone any favors and know of no shops that would turn a blind eye. Also with the new smog laws here, it plugs into the OBDII and does most of the test that way now. Used to have dyno type rollers but they did away with them. Between the stupid carb legal bs the gains need to be worth the price. Now im juggling the risk/reward on cams and tunes because they will fail unless i can undo them before the smog.

Perhaps i miss typed? I did in fact downshift into 2nd gear and it was screaming, I was the one who opted to lower my speed because my temps were climbing and I didnt feel comfortable with the motor reving that high.

I do agree with you that I will be spending my time in the low 2000s to 3800s. This trip was my first with my TT and likely the steepest ill ever take it on. I was hoping for a little more grunt so that 3rd gear wouldnt bleed off as quick.

arthursc2

iTrader: (5)

I am pretty sure you were in 1st gear, unless I am misreading your posts; but 6k rpm and 35 mph dont match up. at 6k in 1st, you're doing nearly 60mph

https://www.randysworldwide.com/calc...ion-ratio-rpm/

I cant help you decide on the legality of your mods, but I can say you dont need to do pushrods/timing set/lifters/rockers (trunion upgrade preferred) to do a cam. My first cam came at ~135k. My next cam went in at ~160k. She is just over 190k as she sits, stock timing set, stock lifters, stock pushrods. LS6 springs and TSP stg2 212/218. I change the oil with Mobil 1, every time the light tells me too. I havent even had the heads off my 5.3 yet, hasnt been a problem; shes been boosted for ~15k of her life now too; currently NA however

I did do all the bearings/pulleys on the front drive and put in a new water pump, kept my same tensioners however

Prinler

Could be 1st. Im only assuming. I didnt have an indicator showing me what gear i was in and I wasnt doing 50 by the time it down shifted. I was stressed out, first time and all. Hope you understand the confusion. Not trying to bs anyone.

"but I can say you dont need to do push rods/timing set/lifters/rockers (trunion upgrade preferred) to do a cam."
I would only do this for the fun, its fascinating, i would enjoy doing it and the peace of mind. If I have it all tore open might as well? Parts are cheap enough?

It sounds like that motor has been good to you. How come its no longer boosted?

1FastBrick

iTrader: (17)

Technically, there are no C.A.R.B approved LS cams. So from that standpoint it "technically" would not be legal. That being said, most of your smaller cams will still pass if they are tuned correctly and where tested under the old Dyno Sniffer test. A Generic Handheld tuner can not correct for this. It will require a custom tune.

arthursc2

iTrader: (5)

parts are cheap. Peace of mind is worth it, but she may not need it is all I'm saying.

The procharger started leaking. Pulled it off to rebuild and upgrade to D1. Then bought 6.0 E350 that needed work. Then bought C5 Z06 that needs work: so basically a 500hp truck fell on the back burner

arthursc2

iTrader: (5)

I've been thinking about this and I wanted to add that an emissions friendly way to add power would be to put a set of 243/799 heads on it

or get real gnarly and put some 706 heads on it

either will require a retune, but the compression bump will get you some healthy gains even with the stock cam and exhaust etc

Prinler

Will this effect the emissions? Heads are pricey arnt they?