2003 Burb C2500 Need More POWWA
07-05-2019, 01:07 AM
#11
Registered User
Thread Starter
Gears will surely help. Getting a tune will also help. You don't have to go to a shop, you can do a mail order tune with someone like atomic performance
One thing worth looking into is the radiator and the fan clutch. Has it ever been replaced that you know of in the 150K?
If not, you might find the cooling stack is slightly plugged up. The diesel guys run into this alot. All the road debris builds up and the cooling stack loses its efficiency. Same with the fan clutch, Over time it wears down and becomes less efficient. They often find out when it's too late and overheat on long heavy hauls.
You may want to consider doing all the cooling Items.
One thing worth looking into is the radiator and the fan clutch. Has it ever been replaced that you know of in the 150K?
If not, you might find the cooling stack is slightly plugged up. The diesel guys run into this alot. All the road debris builds up and the cooling stack loses its efficiency. Same with the fan clutch, Over time it wears down and becomes less efficient. They often find out when it's too late and overheat on long heavy hauls.
You may want to consider doing all the cooling Items.
07-05-2019, 01:46 AM
#12
Registered User
Thread Starter
I did some testing on the highway today. At 80 mph 3300-3400 rpm Tire diameter 31.5 in 3rd gear 1:1
I did notice when i started the truck it made some horrible noise, like i have a pully thats stuck and almost immediately unsticks. More to come.
I did notice when i started the truck it made some horrible noise, like i have a pully thats stuck and almost immediately unsticks. More to come.
Last edited by Prinler; 07-05-2019 at 11:02 AM.
07-05-2019, 02:43 AM
#13
Registered User
Thread Starter
Check and make sure your cats aren't clogged
make sure the air filter is clean
make sure the MAF is clean
tune is best done by a shop or a person with lots of experience. May have to shop around or find a mail order place. I would avoid blackbear for mail order tuning
as for the climb, I've been up Raton Pass, which is 6-7% for a majority of it, and needed 3rd, but the speed limit is 55 through there, so 2nd might have been better. I was pulling ~3300lbs at the time. I have a full bolt on and cam'd 5.3. She puts to the wheels what a tune only LQ9 does, so essentially I have the same power you do: maybe 40-50lbs less torque tho. You have an LQ4, but just work with me on the bench racing lol
I have 4.10s with 33" tires. I actually want more gear and eventually would like to step up to 35", but different discussion for a different day
give your ol girl a look over, make sure she can breathe ok. Get a scanner so you can keep an eye on real time temps and it may be time to look at cats and o2 replacements depending on how she's been driven. Driven harder generally means the cats are cleaner. I don't know how you can inspect them without dropping the Y pipe, and if you're doing that, may as well just replace them. I am not a fan of aftermarket cats at all. I'd look for OE replacements, maybe on a factory Y pipe. I don't know where you should look for those. Brand name exhaust companies will offer stuff, but may not be the same quality as OE
make sure the air filter is clean
make sure the MAF is clean
tune is best done by a shop or a person with lots of experience. May have to shop around or find a mail order place. I would avoid blackbear for mail order tuning
as for the climb, I've been up Raton Pass, which is 6-7% for a majority of it, and needed 3rd, but the speed limit is 55 through there, so 2nd might have been better. I was pulling ~3300lbs at the time. I have a full bolt on and cam'd 5.3. She puts to the wheels what a tune only LQ9 does, so essentially I have the same power you do: maybe 40-50lbs less torque tho. You have an LQ4, but just work with me on the bench racing lol
I have 4.10s with 33" tires. I actually want more gear and eventually would like to step up to 35", but different discussion for a different day
give your ol girl a look over, make sure she can breathe ok. Get a scanner so you can keep an eye on real time temps and it may be time to look at cats and o2 replacements depending on how she's been driven. Driven harder generally means the cats are cleaner. I don't know how you can inspect them without dropping the Y pipe, and if you're doing that, may as well just replace them. I am not a fan of aftermarket cats at all. I'd look for OE replacements, maybe on a factory Y pipe. I don't know where you should look for those. Brand name exhaust companies will offer stuff, but may not be the same quality as OE
Air Filter is clean
MAF did throw a code while i was pulling the hill. I have a BT OBD2 attached and was able to read about it. P0101
Ill check it out and clean it tomorrow
07-05-2019, 06:13 AM
#14
On The Tree
80-mph at 3300-3400 rpms is not OD that is one to one in 3rd gear.
07-06-2019, 02:30 PM
#17
Its a good idea to pull it back and check between the radiator and condenser. Also inspect the radiator for signs of leakage and make sure the fins are not damaged or plugged from dirt and debris that may interrupt air flow through the core.
These New style radiators constructed of plastic and aluminum become brittle over time. The plastic end tanks will become brittle from the thermal cycles and can crack and leak. Some time where they are crimped will also start to seep coolant. Maintaining the coolant will help prolong its life.
The mechanical fan is more effective at pulling air during low speed esspecially while towing.
These New style radiators constructed of plastic and aluminum become brittle over time. The plastic end tanks will become brittle from the thermal cycles and can crack and leak. Some time where they are crimped will also start to seep coolant. Maintaining the coolant will help prolong its life.
The mechanical fan is more effective at pulling air during low speed esspecially while towing.
07-06-2019, 11:09 PM
#18
Registered User
Thread Starter
Ok, well I will sure take your advice and leave the fans alone. When i get the front end tore off to install my new trans cooler im going to clean the radiator.
Ill be ordering the Airaid 200-912 M.I.T. Modular Intake Tube to help with air flow and cleaning the MAF with some spray.
Is a hand held tuner my next step to maximize my power/torque? Not sure boost is in my future. I wouldnt mind learning how to install a cam into my truck as long as i can do it IN the truck in my garage or drive way.
Ill be ordering the Airaid 200-912 M.I.T. Modular Intake Tube to help with air flow and cleaning the MAF with some spray.
Is a hand held tuner my next step to maximize my power/torque? Not sure boost is in my future. I wouldnt mind learning how to install a cam into my truck as long as i can do it IN the truck in my garage or drive way.
07-07-2019, 12:40 AM
#19
Trucks are the easiest to cam, you literally need a 10mm and a 13mm, plus some special tools to pull the crank pulley off and on.
rad will have to come out, but you're draining coolant to remove the water pump anyway
I would get a custom tune, and forego the handhelds
rad will have to come out, but you're draining coolant to remove the water pump anyway
I would get a custom tune, and forego the handhelds
07-08-2019, 10:46 AM
#20
Registered User
Thread Starter
I do not mind pulling my radiator, i need to also fix a leak where the oil cooler meet. Gonna need to drain the oil and coolant for that anyway.
I am going to assume I should replace all of the front engine parts with Chevy/Ac Delco? Water pump? tentioners?