02 silverado with 5.3 ls1 swap
04-03-2017, 01:50 AM
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02 silverado with 5.3 ls1 swap
Hey guys! I had a thread started not to long ago about replacing lifters and the cam to get rid of a tick the engine has but i feel like all that work and parts just isnt worth the time... considering i could find a decent ls1 engine for a bit les and just swap it. Bigger displacement and lighter with better heat dissipation properties!!
My question is this... what will i need to buy before hand to get this swap done in a day or 2 without any surprises? I work at a shop and i can do the swap there but the longer it takes the more im off the clock. I have read that if i use all the truck accesories on the ls1 everythi g sould fit and function right like it did before the swap. Is this true? Will i need bigger injectors? Will ls1 injectors work with stock intake and wiring? Will my flexplate off the 5.3 work? Will i even need to swap flexplates? The questions go on and on.. whos do e this before and who can tell me what to expect and how to prep best for the job? Im looking for the shortest/easiest swap so i can get back to work and so the shop can have their lift back!! PLEASE HELP ME!!!
My question is this... what will i need to buy before hand to get this swap done in a day or 2 without any surprises? I work at a shop and i can do the swap there but the longer it takes the more im off the clock. I have read that if i use all the truck accesories on the ls1 everythi g sould fit and function right like it did before the swap. Is this true? Will i need bigger injectors? Will ls1 injectors work with stock intake and wiring? Will my flexplate off the 5.3 work? Will i even need to swap flexplates? The questions go on and on.. whos do e this before and who can tell me what to expect and how to prep best for the job? Im looking for the shortest/easiest swap so i can get back to work and so the shop can have their lift back!! PLEASE HELP ME!!!
04-03-2017, 06:47 PM
#2
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Your truck intake and fuel rails will swap onto an ls1. The crank pulley will be different so that will have to be swapped to the truck style pulley, not 100% sure on flex plate..I imagine they are the same. Find a 6.0 long low mileage long block and throw it in, imo.
04-03-2017, 09:56 PM
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I would prefer the ls for its light weight and heat distribution but would be happy with the power of a 6.0. Problem is 6.0s are more expensive from what iv heard around here. Hell id be happy if i found a short block ls1 and use all my old truck parts
04-04-2017, 12:31 PM
#4
the front belt drive off your currant engine will bolt up as mentioned youll need your currant truck crank pulley, all your sensors, exhaust manifolds, engine mounts and so on will work. the flexplate i'm not sure on though, maybe talk to a trans shop to find out? your truck might sit a little higher in the front since the ls1 is lighter
ls1 was build for a lighter weight car might not be the best route for your truck, 6.0 lq4 or lq9 really would be a lot better and in the end youll be all smiles! i had a lq4 in my last 04 rcsb and it was pretty fun
ls1 was build for a lighter weight car might not be the best route for your truck, 6.0 lq4 or lq9 really would be a lot better and in the end youll be all smiles! i had a lq4 in my last 04 rcsb and it was pretty fun
04-04-2017, 03:06 PM
#5
I helped my dad swap an Ls1 into his 2000 ext cab from a 4.8 and it was pretty simple. Basically, strip the Ls1 down to nothing but a long block and then swap everything from your 5.3 over to it (intake/exhaust manifolds, all accessories and brackets, flex plate, sensors, coil packs, etc.).
The only "issues" you will run into is that the large bracket on the front that holds the alternator and power steering pump has one bolt that won't line up on the Ls1 block. Still has 3 other bolts that secure it and after 20K miles my dad has had no issues with it. Also, depending on the year Ls1 you have the valve cover bolt pattern may not match so you may not be able to swap your 5.3 valve covers over (which is what the coil packs mount to). This was the case on my dads truck so we mounted the coil packs to the Ls1 valve covers just have to get creative.
With regard to injectors you can get away with using your truck injectors no problem with the engine in stock form. However, once you start modifying anything at all they max out fairly quickly. On my dads truck we swapped in a set of 8.1L truck injectors while we had the intake off to swap. They swap right in and are 31lb/hr as opposed to the 24lb/hr for 4.8/5.3/6.0. I believe the Ls1 come with 26-28lb/hr injectors IIRC.
Good Luck!
The only "issues" you will run into is that the large bracket on the front that holds the alternator and power steering pump has one bolt that won't line up on the Ls1 block. Still has 3 other bolts that secure it and after 20K miles my dad has had no issues with it. Also, depending on the year Ls1 you have the valve cover bolt pattern may not match so you may not be able to swap your 5.3 valve covers over (which is what the coil packs mount to). This was the case on my dads truck so we mounted the coil packs to the Ls1 valve covers just have to get creative.
With regard to injectors you can get away with using your truck injectors no problem with the engine in stock form. However, once you start modifying anything at all they max out fairly quickly. On my dads truck we swapped in a set of 8.1L truck injectors while we had the intake off to swap. They swap right in and are 31lb/hr as opposed to the 24lb/hr for 4.8/5.3/6.0. I believe the Ls1 come with 26-28lb/hr injectors IIRC.
Good Luck!
Last edited by 53bowtie; 04-04-2017 at 03:12 PM.
04-04-2017, 09:10 PM
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the front belt drive off your currant engine will bolt up as mentioned youll need your currant truck crank pulley, all your sensors, exhaust manifolds, engine mounts and so on will work. the flexplate i'm not sure on though, maybe talk to a trans shop to find out? your truck might sit a little higher in the front since the ls1 is lighter
ls1 was build for a lighter weight car might not be the best route for your truck, 6.0 lq4 or lq9 really would be a lot better and in the end youll be all smiles! i had a lq4 in my last 04 rcsb and it was pretty fun
ls1 was build for a lighter weight car might not be the best route for your truck, 6.0 lq4 or lq9 really would be a lot better and in the end youll be all smiles! i had a lq4 in my last 04 rcsb and it was pretty fun
04-04-2017, 09:12 PM
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I helped my dad swap an Ls1 into his 2000 ext cab from a 4.8 and it was pretty simple. Basically, strip the Ls1 down to nothing but a long block and then swap everything from your 5.3 over to it (intake/exhaust manifolds, all accessories and brackets, flex plate, sensors, coil packs, etc.).
The only "issues" you will run into is that the large bracket on the front that holds the alternator and power steering pump has one bolt that won't line up on the Ls1 block. Still has 3 other bolts that secure it and after 20K miles my dad has had no issues with it. Also, depending on the year Ls1 you have the valve cover bolt pattern may not match so you may not be able to swap your 5.3 valve covers over (which is what the coil packs mount to). This was the case on my dads truck so we mounted the coil packs to the Ls1 valve covers just have to get creative.
With regard to injectors you can get away with using your truck injectors no problem with the engine in stock form. However, once you start modifying anything at all they max out fairly quickly. On my dads truck we swapped in a set of 8.1L truck injectors while we had the intake off to swap. They swap right in and are 31lb/hr as opposed to the 24lb/hr for 4.8/5.3/6.0. I believe the Ls1 come with 26-28lb/hr injectors IIRC.
Good Luck!
The only "issues" you will run into is that the large bracket on the front that holds the alternator and power steering pump has one bolt that won't line up on the Ls1 block. Still has 3 other bolts that secure it and after 20K miles my dad has had no issues with it. Also, depending on the year Ls1 you have the valve cover bolt pattern may not match so you may not be able to swap your 5.3 valve covers over (which is what the coil packs mount to). This was the case on my dads truck so we mounted the coil packs to the Ls1 valve covers just have to get creative.
With regard to injectors you can get away with using your truck injectors no problem with the engine in stock form. However, once you start modifying anything at all they max out fairly quickly. On my dads truck we swapped in a set of 8.1L truck injectors while we had the intake off to swap. They swap right in and are 31lb/hr as opposed to the 24lb/hr for 4.8/5.3/6.0. I believe the Ls1 come with 26-28lb/hr injectors IIRC.
Good Luck!
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04-07-2017, 10:56 AM
#9
If you swap injectors, you WILL need to get it retuned. So swapping out injectors are not a direct swap, in that sense. You would need to let your tuner know about the different injectors or it won't run right.
I have actually done both head and cam swap/rebuilds on 4.8 and 5.3's as well as ls1 swaps multiple times. What I would recommend Not doing is installing another motor in the truck without pulling the heads, checking the condition of the motor while turning it by hand, cleaning valve train parts and inspecting the oil pump.
The above differences are true, but there MAY be some others that have not been mentioned, depending on the year of both blocks; when I went from my 5.3 to ls1 block, I also noticed that the aluminum block has additional holes for motor mounts(6 total on each side). My original block AND ls1 block were both from a year 2000). There is also one(possibly two) less bolt holes to mount the transmission bell housing to the back of the block.
If you get an ls1 from a car that was a manual transmission, you might have to deal with the pilot bearing being in the way. In my case, I just left it in. You also want to make sure that the spacing from the rear of the crank flexplate mounting flange is the same as the new block. Some of The 6.0 iron blocks had extended cranks and some of the flexplate if noticed have different spacing. I don't know the reason for the spacing differences from the plates to the rear of the block, but it's very close to begin with. So just be sure to double check everything. This is probably one of the most screwed up areas I've seen with motor or trans swaps. And what will happen is the flex plate or torque converter will not be seated or lined up correctly and you will have serious issues with the torque converter. When I did my swap, I also went with a Flat TCI flex plate. If you end up going this route, make sure you buy the FLAT headed bolts that bolt the TC to the flex plate.
If you're going to use the truck intake, everything should basically swap right over.. Keep in mind the accessories are not interchangeable from the cars and the trucks. The spacing is different on them. You can use say a ls1 water pump with truck accessories if you add pump spacers. But you can't use a truck pump with car accessories(if that makes sense)... Since the new motor would already be out of the vehicle, I'd personally pull the heads and at least clean all the valve train parts or soak them with Chemtool?.. I believe an over night soak of your parts in this stuff will make them look brand new and spotless again. You can then clean up the tops of the Pistons and measure the each bore of the cylinders to check the actual condition of the block(rather than taking someone's word for it)...
This is just my recommendation from personal experience. I've seen more people buy supposedly good condition or rebuilt LSx motors in the past few years, just to find out shortly after that the motor "NEEDS" a rebuild. Best to be on the safe side. And NEVER assume anything when putting a motor or engine swap together. There's a lot of people out there that will do just about anything they can to sell you their problems, unfortunately.. :/
No matter what rioute you do, I'd recommend changing the oil AT LEAST 3 times in the first 3000 miles(probably the first change after a few hundred miles), if you end up opening the motor up or it's been out of a vehicle for awhile. It's too easy for foreign deposits to get stuck in between the journals and bearings and destroy the copper.. It even worse, get stuck in the oil pump relief valve and hang up the oil pump.
For this reason, I get a new oil pump or take the one apart that's in there and clean up the insides with 600-800grit to eliminate scoring, before reinstalling. It wouldn't be a bad idea to add a .040 shim or washer in the relief valve spring as well IMO. This will bump the pressure to a slightly more comfortable area on LS blocks with higher miles, due to increasing main bearing clearances. And change out the pickup tube o-ring with an OEM o-ring from the dealership ONLY. I'd also get a new oil pressure sending unit while you're in their as well. The front timing cover gaskets can usually be reused.
...Hope this helps
I have actually done both head and cam swap/rebuilds on 4.8 and 5.3's as well as ls1 swaps multiple times. What I would recommend Not doing is installing another motor in the truck without pulling the heads, checking the condition of the motor while turning it by hand, cleaning valve train parts and inspecting the oil pump.
The above differences are true, but there MAY be some others that have not been mentioned, depending on the year of both blocks; when I went from my 5.3 to ls1 block, I also noticed that the aluminum block has additional holes for motor mounts(6 total on each side). My original block AND ls1 block were both from a year 2000). There is also one(possibly two) less bolt holes to mount the transmission bell housing to the back of the block.
If you get an ls1 from a car that was a manual transmission, you might have to deal with the pilot bearing being in the way. In my case, I just left it in. You also want to make sure that the spacing from the rear of the crank flexplate mounting flange is the same as the new block. Some of The 6.0 iron blocks had extended cranks and some of the flexplate if noticed have different spacing. I don't know the reason for the spacing differences from the plates to the rear of the block, but it's very close to begin with. So just be sure to double check everything. This is probably one of the most screwed up areas I've seen with motor or trans swaps. And what will happen is the flex plate or torque converter will not be seated or lined up correctly and you will have serious issues with the torque converter. When I did my swap, I also went with a Flat TCI flex plate. If you end up going this route, make sure you buy the FLAT headed bolts that bolt the TC to the flex plate.
If you're going to use the truck intake, everything should basically swap right over.. Keep in mind the accessories are not interchangeable from the cars and the trucks. The spacing is different on them. You can use say a ls1 water pump with truck accessories if you add pump spacers. But you can't use a truck pump with car accessories(if that makes sense)... Since the new motor would already be out of the vehicle, I'd personally pull the heads and at least clean all the valve train parts or soak them with Chemtool?.. I believe an over night soak of your parts in this stuff will make them look brand new and spotless again. You can then clean up the tops of the Pistons and measure the each bore of the cylinders to check the actual condition of the block(rather than taking someone's word for it)...
This is just my recommendation from personal experience. I've seen more people buy supposedly good condition or rebuilt LSx motors in the past few years, just to find out shortly after that the motor "NEEDS" a rebuild. Best to be on the safe side. And NEVER assume anything when putting a motor or engine swap together. There's a lot of people out there that will do just about anything they can to sell you their problems, unfortunately.. :/
No matter what rioute you do, I'd recommend changing the oil AT LEAST 3 times in the first 3000 miles(probably the first change after a few hundred miles), if you end up opening the motor up or it's been out of a vehicle for awhile. It's too easy for foreign deposits to get stuck in between the journals and bearings and destroy the copper.. It even worse, get stuck in the oil pump relief valve and hang up the oil pump.
For this reason, I get a new oil pump or take the one apart that's in there and clean up the insides with 600-800grit to eliminate scoring, before reinstalling. It wouldn't be a bad idea to add a .040 shim or washer in the relief valve spring as well IMO. This will bump the pressure to a slightly more comfortable area on LS blocks with higher miles, due to increasing main bearing clearances. And change out the pickup tube o-ring with an OEM o-ring from the dealership ONLY. I'd also get a new oil pressure sending unit while you're in their as well. The front timing cover gaskets can usually be reused.
...Hope this helps
Last edited by chris99gmc; 04-07-2017 at 11:15 AM.
04-07-2017, 11:25 AM
#10
Oh and if you end up pulling the heads from the block. Do not reinstall them w/o getting the surfaces cleaned up at a machine shop. These aluminum heads warp over time from heat and will leak at the corners. Get a new set of head bolts and new head gaskets, obviously. If your ls1 block is pre 2002?, do not use the MLS gaskets. Use the cometic style head gaskets. Before installing the heads and bolts. Make sure you clean out every single bolt hole with solvent and be sure they are ALL cleans and DRY. Especially on aluminum block. If not, you will more than likely strip or pull the threads right out of the block when torquing to spec.