Want to trade: a set of 4 American Racing RT-S wheels, black center, billet lip, 20x8.5 wheels for a set of SS silverado rims. This set has 8k miles and is in great condition. They will tuck on the full size chevy. They are currently on my 05 Colorado and I just want something different. If interested, email me at my05zq8@yahoo.com. Local if possible, if not, we each pay shipping.

Thanks,

Richie

 

dude, you colorado has a huge hub, and it's not round...... you'd have to have the ss wheels machined to fit. and whoever took your ar wheels, wouldn't have a wheel that was hub centric for the silverado, meaning all the load would be on the studs..... depends on if you wanna do that or not.

 

WOW!! Im glad you said that cause i was gonna offer a trade... Ill just hold off and buy a set of the RT-S wheels for my silverado. You can get them for like 749.99 BUY IT NOW on EBAY. Nice wheels!

BTW: Loudazzbluestepside: What rims and drop do you have on your truck? It looks bad ***!!

 

3/5 drop with springs in the front, hangers/shackles in the rear, with spring clamps. MB motoring Express 18x9 wheels

 

All you would need is some hub centric rings for his RT-S's. I had to get some for the first set of 20's I ever got and they were pretty cheap ($25) if I remember correctly. And there is a machine shop here in town that can mill the SS's for ya' Rich.

 

i was told by many people that the hub doesn't need to fit tight into the wheel. soo? should it fit tight?

 

guys I really bet you wont find any wheels that are truely hubcentric. They have some for the big rigs (semi) but they also still have the ones that mount only to the bolts and float around the hub.
not trying to stir the pot too much I just havent seen that, of course I dont know too much about the aftermarket wheels but lets see.
Dave

 

i beg to differ, i had to replace two wheel studs in my girlfriends car this week, cause i tightend down the wheel on the hub, withoul lining up the wheel correctly. Almost all newer vehicles ride the weight on the hub, not the studs. it's just better/stronger/safer.

jim, i don't think it's truly required. But the thing is..... if the studs on the vehicle, are meant to only hold the wheel on, while the hub bears the load.... are they not grade 10.5? meaning..... did the manufacturer skimp on studs because the load is elsewhere? all the stud is doing is holding the wheel on. i could be wrong. but i'd find out the strength of the stud, before running a non hub centric wheel. and if i still chose to run a non hubcentric wheel and the stud's were inferior, i'd change out the studs to a heavy duty, harder better race type. just a thought, maybe the hub is only to center the wheel?

i truly don't know..... this is all just theorizing.

 

I dont think it could have been said better!! Makes perfect sense to me. After all, if you can get the spacer things to make them hubcentric for 25 bucks, why not just do that if you really want the wheels. Thats what i would do.

Oh yea, Your truck looks sick!! I cant believe they are MB motoring... I havent seen a set that tight in that brand. Thanks for the details on the drop and stuff man. Mad props on your setup. It looks very intimidating!

 

Not sure about GM, but I know that Toyota/Lexus hasn't been hub-centric on most of their stuff for a while. There's actually a special adapter for balancing that has studs that use the lug holes in the wheel to center the wheel on the balancer. When guys attempt to balance the wheel/tire assemblies with cones through the center of the wheel they end up with a wheel that doesn't balance correctly, as the hole in the center of the wheel isn't always perfect center due to machining variances. By doing it this way, it allows the manufacturer to have more clearance in the center of the wheel to hub to allow for oxidation, so the wheel doesn't rust to the hub, and so rust on the hub doesn't throw the wheel off center to the hub, making it impossible to balance. GM may be totally different though.