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WTB Cal-Tracs

Old Nov 5, 2009 | 12:51 AM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by AKlowriderZ71
Don't take the bed all the way off. Remove the left bed-bolts, loosen the right bed-bolts, disconnect the filler neck, unplug the tail harness. Find a buddy and a jackstand. Lift the left side of bed, jackstand goes between the frame and bed.
another good tip, but sounds like a tight squeeze on the left side cause i dont see it tilting that much without hitting something on the right? prob help to have the wheels off and on stands huh.. have to put that one in the memory bank:nunchuk1:
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Old Nov 5, 2009 | 01:01 AM
  #72  
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Nope, lift that bed up, tires on & everything. Oh, wait a minute. Your truck looks a little lower than mine. I keep forgetting that there are 2 wheel drive trucks. Everything here is 4x4. If your wheels/tires are close, pull the right rear off. But anyways, you can lift the bed 16-18 inches off the frame easily.
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Old Nov 5, 2009 | 01:16 PM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by AKlowriderZ71
Dumpd04, you have a lock-nut upside down on a u-bolt.

lol thats the only it would go back on!!! it kinda got stripped so thats the only way itd work! i have new bolts and everything just havent had time to get under there!
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Old Nov 5, 2009 | 02:00 PM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by kbracing96
All right, you guys have my attention. Well I did start on some traction bars, but got busy and distracted away from them. I have bars to build 5 sets right now, I just have to build the mounts for them. So would $275 shipped be a good price point for you guys? I haven't get the mount design set in stone yet, but will be Caltrac style, but won't pivot off the spring eye, instead they will attach to the spring right behind the eye and pivot there, so you don't have to remove the gas tank to install them. I am finishing up a turbo kit right now, and will have some pics to post up later this week. This first batch will be for non-flipped axles only till I can see what I will have to change to make them work on flipped axles too. Let me know who is interested for sure.
So when do I need to come up for a test fit
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Old Nov 5, 2009 | 11:24 PM
  #75  
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still interested
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Old Nov 18, 2009 | 04:22 PM
  #76  
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kyle, anything new with these?
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Old Nov 25, 2009 | 06:45 PM
  #77  
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Ok guys, I built a prototype this afternoon to show you what I have. The bars and joints are some kind of zinc coated and the rest of the parts will be painted black. These clamp to the front of the spring and pivot off of the spring clamp. They push on the back of the spring eye, so there is no binding or stress points They are complete bolt on, no drilling cutting, dropping the gas tank or anything. Should be able to install them in about and hour.

This first batch will be $280 a pair, shipped. Please paypal me at kybrown@gmail.com with shipping instructions, unless you want to send a check. I will be building and shipping these next week. They will be on a first come first sever basis. If I get more then 5 of you who pay, It only takes me a couple days to get more materials, so shouldn't be any hold ups. PM me with any questions.

Thanks, Kyle




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Old Nov 25, 2009 | 08:02 PM
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so those two split pieces in the middle that wrap around the leaf are just wedged in there and not welded to the triagle plates correct? also i have lowering leafs, think that would make any difference?
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Old Nov 25, 2009 | 08:06 PM
  #79  
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still none for flip kits, eh?
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Old Nov 25, 2009 | 08:17 PM
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Originally Posted by skolman91
so those two split pieces in the middle that wrap around the leaf are just wedged in there and not welded to the triagle plates correct? also i have lowering leafs, think that would make any difference?
The triangle pivots on the tube the bolt goes though on the split clap part. I don't think you should have any problem with drop springs.

Originally Posted by xlcooplx
still none for flip kits, eh?
The only thing different would be the u-bolt plate, and I should be able to built that too, just need to look at it a little more to see what I need to do.
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