Why is my oil everywhere but in the engine?
#53
Originally Posted by 1SlowHoe
Driving a truck with a BLOWN engine has two meanings. I get to experience BOTH on a regular basis
#54
Originally Posted by 1SlowHoe
I had to get on it a little to pull out into traffic. Blew the oil dipstick out the tube and proceeded to coat the pass side of the engine bay with oil. (Sigh) Degreaser and a water hose are next on the to do list.

I am going to be moving to PC over the next two weeks but if you need a hand, feel free to give me a hollar.
#55
Originally Posted by ZRO26T
Man... I'm just reading through the posts, and this is the pits. Not that I'm a guru, but if you warped heads and/or blew head gaskets, you'd be looking at white-ish smoke out the tail pipe. Been there TWICE, and I drove 25 miles on warped heads with extreme power loss.
I know it seems like a pain, but pull the 6.0L out, and put the spare in. With the same LS based setup, it'll hook right back up (one-day job with you & a buddy or two). I'm not sure what your tuned PCM will do since the 6.0L's obviously got more than stock cam. Aside from that, you'd have a road worthy vehicle as a DD for the fam. Not wishing bad on TX, but yes, hurricane season is around the way (I'm from New Orleans, and live in Baton Rouge now). Easier to work on engine out of the truck (I have an '02 Yukon... I know this), and you can have the DD to get around, and take the time to go through the entire engine for ease of the mind. You can tear down the engine in less than two hours (me & couple buddies did with a 5.7L w/ a 12-pack)... and that's if you take the time to bag & tag the parts & bolts you remove.
Just my $0.02.
I know it seems like a pain, but pull the 6.0L out, and put the spare in. With the same LS based setup, it'll hook right back up (one-day job with you & a buddy or two). I'm not sure what your tuned PCM will do since the 6.0L's obviously got more than stock cam. Aside from that, you'd have a road worthy vehicle as a DD for the fam. Not wishing bad on TX, but yes, hurricane season is around the way (I'm from New Orleans, and live in Baton Rouge now). Easier to work on engine out of the truck (I have an '02 Yukon... I know this), and you can have the DD to get around, and take the time to go through the entire engine for ease of the mind. You can tear down the engine in less than two hours (me & couple buddies did with a 5.7L w/ a 12-pack)... and that's if you take the time to bag & tag the parts & bolts you remove.
Just my $0.02.
B.S. that was closer to 2 cases. but still only took a couple hours. to pull the engine and tear it down to the bare block
#56
Originally Posted by white1
B.S. that was closer to 2 cases. but still only took a couple hours. to pull the engine and tear it down to the bare block 

#57
Back when I used to race my 70 mustang, I encounter this same problem on several occasions. The blow by in the oil tube, oil passages, etc was caused by roasted rings and few broke pistons. When the combustion chamber fires and drives the piston down it caused exhaust to go into the bottom end of the motor, thus heating it up. So basically i was compressing the bottom end of the motor and that pressure would releave itself any way it could I.E. coming out the PVC or the Oil tube or the Filler neck, etc. Another sign would be it over heating. The engine still ran fine, which was amazing but it used a lot of oil. Just FYI from my experience.
#58
Do you have a magnetic oil plug? if so id it ever have any shavings on it? if so might be some of your internals on there......
Oh and I don't think you might have warped your heads cause I believe they are aluminum. aluminum can with stand a lot higher temps with out warping, unlike cast heads.
Oh and I feel your pain.
Oh and I don't think you might have warped your heads cause I believe they are aluminum. aluminum can with stand a lot higher temps with out warping, unlike cast heads.
Oh and I feel your pain.
#60
Thread Starter
Destroyer of Transmissions
iTrader: (28)
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 4,962
Likes: 1
From: Orlando, FL
Just in case I get REALLY lucky and only have gasket problems...can anyone tell me if there is a difference between the drivers and pass side head? I wasn't sure if one had something that wasn't readily visible because the sure look the same to me. I just don't want to swap springs to the wrong head..





