I've tried throwing a couple more degrees at it, and something is pulling a ton of timing from my tune. There are places now where I am commanding 31* and only getting 23-24. I logged all my timing PID's and nothing is showing up.

I'm not going to add any more timing till I figure out what's pulling it.

 

Well, the good news is that you can run the cheap gas without affecting performance.

 

In my logs from last night I can clearly see the RPM's take off at about 2800 RPM. I think if I can get the turbo on there and get the converter stalling back up to 2800 I'll be golden.


Haha I used my scan gauge to make some 1/4 mile runs, I got 14.6 @ 101 and 17.3 @ 103

Damn short time is killing me!

 

Yes his DCR is LOW but he should still be getting better results then he is. Also with a low DCR eh should be able to command ALOT more timing which he is not getting. 8.5DCR is the "perfect" target to use pump gas, run decent timing and most power. Obviously something is going on with his timing. I dont care how bad his DCR is he has a 408 and he spinning the tires like a bolt on 5.3 so something is up.

 

did you check your intake temp table i know mine was pulling alot of timeing. but it was at like 90* intake air temp. there not always in the kr tab look under the spark advance tab and check some of the correction tables. afr even cot correction. just because you may have clicked off the cot deosn't mean it wontpull timiming. it shouldn't but it might. i zero all my correction tables the intake temp one i leave alone in the higher temps though.

i probably missed it, what are you tuning with?

 

I'm using EFILive. My IAT correction table is still set for the Radix I had, so it doesn't start to pull timing until about 170*. I'll check the others. I didn't look at the cat tables, but I went through and looked at the rest.

 

To be honest I would get that AFR down to at least 12.8 and up the timing to around 27*, you should be able to hold that with the compression you are running. As for the stall, try adding some timing in the low-load, low-rpm areas, maybe 3-4*, and then smooth it back out to where you have it now around your stall speed. This should help you bust off the line a bit quicker and get the converter to flash a bit higher.

 

I haven't seen where you have said, but do you have any KR? If so, you shouldn't even be able to make it knock ANY (n/a) with good gas at your compression. I had a problem with false KR when I put in a small cam and headers on my 2000 6.0L 4x4 and had to increase B6249 (background noise level) from .5 to 1.0 to overcome increased noise from the headers. After I was sure it wasn't pinging, I then reduced it just enough to not trigger false KR, .08 in my case w/27' timing and 12.7 AFR. If not, the spark reduction must be coming from some some other table. The Efilive linking feature should let you go back and check out all the spark tables, multipliers, etc at the time it is pulling spark. BTW the stock DCR on a 2002+ LQ4 comes in at 7.22 so I don't think all your problems is from your cam but it doesn't help it either.

Ron

 

what is your coolant temp at on these runs? do you have a knock learn table in EFIlive? if so set it to where your stall is at. it may have learned a knock value and now it uses it all the time. it can go up to like 15*. on mine i set it to like 2800 cause i have a 3000 stall. and did you zero out all your traction control retards just incase? i did it in my silverado just because even though i didn't have t-control. try some of those see what happens.

 

Sounds like you have a pretty good idea why you are losing power. I hope you get it all dialed in soon.

This post scared the out of me worrying about the 408 i'm building . My DCR seems to be about 7.5. Not sure if I'm using the Calc right. Anyway good luck.