can someone tell me what degree of pinion angle is proper for my ecsb.......

 

I keep this saved for questions like this.

There are two angles to deal with:

1) Driveshaft angle
2) Pinion angle

You subtract pinion angle from driveshaft angle to get TRUE pinion angle

Here's how you do it:

First, had you measured your stock drive shaft angle and pinion angle before you removed your stock torque arm, you would have calculated a 0 deg. TRUE pinion angle. This is how all cars come from the factory, no suspension bind.

Using an angle finder place it on the driveshaft (a flat smooth spot) and record the angle indicated.

Next, place the angle finder on the flat surface where the torque arm mounts to the rear end (this surface is parallel with the pinion shaft) and record the angle indicated.

Subtract the pinion angle from the driveshaft angle. The result is "TRUE Pinion Angle".
In order to apply preload you need negative TRUE pinion angle. Adjust the torque arm so that the front of the pinion goes down; continue to check each angle until the pinion angle is more degrees down than the driveshaft angle.

We recommend –1 degrees on a mildly modified daily driven car. For high horsepower applications we have gotten the best results with –2 to –3 degrees. There is no reason to run more negative then that, it will actually hurt your performance because it will induce driveline bind.

You don't want to drive around with your suspension preloaded all the time, it's a lot of unnecessary binding on the u-joints and suspension. It should only be used when racing.

 

thanks....so -1 is what i should shoot for.........i installed a 4 link and i'm lowered so i need to set it.....what about tranny angle?

 

If it was my truck I'd probably do it at -2deg but that is more for traction isues with the turbo. On a mild bolt-on truck that doesn't have major traction issues I would try -1 first. On my T/A I had it set for -3 but that's because I hit the tires HARD with the 4400 stall and nitrous, and didn't drive it much on the street.


You shouldn't have to adjust the tranny. Frankly I don't see how you would anyway. The trans is attached to the motor so one wont move without the other and the tranny is hard mounted so other than trying to loosen bolts and make shims I don't see it working well at all. Just adjust the pinion angle and you should be fine. I don't think lowered guys have much of a problem with this, especially with an adjustable 4-link which BTW kicks *** for traction It's the huge lifted 4x4 guys that have issues.

 

no i'm not talking about adjusting trans ...... i was thinking to find 0% pinion angle to start i have to consider trans angle?.......what if trans angle is -1 or -2 to begin with instead of 0% that doesn't effect the drive shaft / pinion calculation?

 

Sorry, I misunderstood you.

Just ignore thier 0% comment. I think it was for reference puposes only. The only angles you need to be concerned with is that of the driveshaft and the rear end.

Trany angle will change the pinion angle but as long as you do these measurements and set it all up with everything bolted up correctly you'll be fine.

Part of the reason they talk about binding is that when you mash the pedal the motor/trans can move as well as the rear end so pinion angle is not static, it will vary depending on the power being applied and how quickly and the traction available.

 

I'm not 100% sure how all this applies to a 4-link though so you migth wanna ask for more advice or do a google search just to be sure. I don't wanna give bad advice. I just know this is correct adivice for a standard setup.

 

thanks for your input......