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You are making a mountain out of a mole hill based off one person’s recommendation who builds 4 figure horsepower engines for a living and not people who actually daily drive their high mileage forced induction vehicles. You’ve asked our opinions on how to do this but you refuse to accept them. Go ahead and go bankrupt building your unbreakable dream truck that will never amount to what a stock diesel can do.
I put a Magnuson supercharger on my truck at 100,000 miles with 7 lbs boost and drover it daily to 277,000 then turboed it with 14 lbs, I would not hesitate to to put the blower on but maybe I just got lucky.
I put a Magnuson supercharger on my truck at 100,000 miles with 7 lbs boost and drover it daily to 277,000 then turboed it with 14 lbs, I would not hesitate to to put the blower on but maybe I just got lucky.
Did you leave the Maggie on too? 21psi of combined SC/Turbo would be awesome!
From: Where Freedom began ... and now goes to die.
Originally Posted by Bgbldodge
You are making a mountain out of a mole hill based off one person’s recommendation who builds 4 figure horsepower engines for a living and not people who actually daily drive their high mileage forced induction vehicles. You’ve asked our opinions on how to do this but you refuse to accept them. Go ahead and go bankrupt building your unbreakable dream truck that will never amount to what a stock diesel can do.
Your reading comprehension sucks, man. I was on the fence between a short block and rebuilding what I have - several useful commenters steered me, WISELY, in the direction of rebuilding what I have - that saves me $1,500. IT'S NOT YOUR MONEY. If my engine blows up, are you going to buy me a new one? EXACTLY. What SOLID proof do you have withouth ever SEEING or HEARING my engine run that it'll survive? Anecdotal evidence? I'll PASS. I work too hard for my money.
Originally Posted by zz454Chevelle67
I put a Magnuson supercharger on my truck at 100,000 miles with 7 lbs boost and drover it daily to 277,000 then turboed it with 14 lbs, I would not hesitate to to put the blower on but maybe I just got lucky.
AGAIN - 2001. Different animal - better build quality all around. An '01 is guaranteed to run a minimum of 300k stock, towing every single day. '07-up have come apart for repairs anywhere from 70k to a high of 150k miles for valvetrain repairs. Heard of a few from friends in the biz that have just shitcanned the engines due to high leakdown past the rings. To them it's not worth the liability rebuilding a questionable engine - as a tech, you'll end up married to it. VERY FEW in the biz bothers rebuilding newer LS's.
Thanks to everyone for their suggestions. Anyone else want to come in here and bash me for making better decisions with my money, feel free. BRING IT.
From: Where Freedom began ... and now goes to die.
I've seen the 1,000 HP junkyard engine videos. Like Ted said to me, "Just because someone does it on the internet, doesn't mean you should." Impressive that they took that kind of power, but none lasted very long.
I don't know, man. Burning oil at 50k miles kind of soured me on this engine. I get that it could be the unshielded blowoff valve in the pan, but just based on the somewhat rough idle and excessive vibration at high RPM that was never there when it was new, combined with post after post on iATN of these engines with broken piston ring lands (STOCK, too!) or just plain worn out long before they should've been, I've lost faith in this one as it sits.
That's another thing I forgot to bring up. Ever since day one, this thing pinged like hell under heavy loads. Just full throttle on 87 will make it ping. This was long before I did a CAI, Corsa cat back, and canned, hand-held tune-in-a-box. There were times when I was towing where I was afraid to go over 50 MPH. It was THAT bad! Been running premium fuel ever since. I'm expecting to see beat up ring lands from that. We'll see ...
It's looking like after all is said and done parts and machine shop wise, the price is going to be $1,400 cheaper than buying the Texas Speed block. That's with Wiseco pistons, BTR 4340 forged H-beam rods with ARP bolts, Clevite Tri-Armor coated main and rod bearings, Durabond teflon coated cam bearings, and balancing the rotating assembly. Not too bad, IMO.
$3100 total for new short block ready to go really doesn't sound too terrible. Then you got to factor in heads cam ect. mostly stock on all that except for the cam and rockers? And the 7k on SC, so 12k ish and completely done?
Sep 12, 2022 | 07:16 PM
