What The Hell Did I Get Myself Into?!
Aug 3, 2007 | 07:58 PM
#21
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From: Pickerington, Ohio
Originally Posted by gao8302
Damn you could have pulled the motor. It would have made things a little easier...
Aug 3, 2007 | 08:04 PM
#22
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From: Pickerington, Ohio
Strait from Katech website!
"Connecting Rods & Bolts
Gen 3 / 4 Rod Bolts Extensive testing by Katech for GM’s LS1 ASA engines showed the production rod bolt to be the weak link in the stock bottom end in the LS1 engines. Our rod bolt is the best you can get and fits production connecting rods without having to re-hone them to size.
These direct replacement bolts are made from H-11 material for extremely high tensile strength with threads rolled to J-graded specifications. To install the new bolts, simply remove the old bolts and feral that hold them in the rod cap. Then insert the new rod bolts, apply a light coating of supplied lubricant to the threads and torque to 50ft.lbs. Using the Katech rod bolts will increase your engines RPM and Horsepower potential.
Gen 3 / 4 Replacement Connecting Rod Bolts
KAT-A2326 – Replacement Connecting Rod Bolts
• H-11 high tensile material - 200,000 psi yield strength
• Bolts directly in place, no resizing necessary
• Extended RPM usage
Price: $199.99/set
KATECH ROD BOLT TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS:
• Remove factory bolts and ferrules
• Apply the supplied CMD Extreme Pressure Lube #3 generously to the bottom of the rod bolt head and the threads
• Torque bolts to 30 lb-ft and then loosen completely at least twice to burnish threads
• Final torque rod bolts to 50 lb-ft. The equivalent bolt stretch should be between 0.005” and 0.007”"
"Connecting Rods & Bolts
Gen 3 / 4 Rod Bolts Extensive testing by Katech for GM’s LS1 ASA engines showed the production rod bolt to be the weak link in the stock bottom end in the LS1 engines. Our rod bolt is the best you can get and fits production connecting rods without having to re-hone them to size.
These direct replacement bolts are made from H-11 material for extremely high tensile strength with threads rolled to J-graded specifications. To install the new bolts, simply remove the old bolts and feral that hold them in the rod cap. Then insert the new rod bolts, apply a light coating of supplied lubricant to the threads and torque to 50ft.lbs. Using the Katech rod bolts will increase your engines RPM and Horsepower potential.
Gen 3 / 4 Replacement Connecting Rod Bolts
KAT-A2326 – Replacement Connecting Rod Bolts
• H-11 high tensile material - 200,000 psi yield strength
• Bolts directly in place, no resizing necessary
• Extended RPM usage
Price: $199.99/set
KATECH ROD BOLT TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS:
• Remove factory bolts and ferrules
• Apply the supplied CMD Extreme Pressure Lube #3 generously to the bottom of the rod bolt head and the threads
• Torque bolts to 30 lb-ft and then loosen completely at least twice to burnish threads
• Final torque rod bolts to 50 lb-ft. The equivalent bolt stretch should be between 0.005” and 0.007”"
Aug 3, 2007 | 08:13 PM
#24
i thought he was kidding about the rod rehone thing. i thought this subject was squished along time ago. the stock rods are cracked cap rods why would alittle more squeeze cause you to have to rehone the rod ends? i don't know of any body here that has actually rehone there rods after installing of arp bolts. i know i didn't.
valve covers look awsome by the way
valve covers look awsome by the way
Aug 4, 2007 | 11:58 AM
#27
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From: Pickerington, Ohio
UPDATE:
Rod bolts, wind-age-tray, cam, oil pump, timing chain, oil pickup tube, oil pan, starter, cross-member all done! Going to take a break for lunch and family and get back at it later. Pics will be up soon!
Rod bolts, wind-age-tray, cam, oil pump, timing chain, oil pickup tube, oil pan, starter, cross-member all done! Going to take a break for lunch and family and get back at it later. Pics will be up soon!
