I want to try pulling as much power as I can on a N/A 5.3. I am ordering edit, and i have other vehichles to drive, so i figure why not. I want to get the biggest cam I can get in there with the stock bottom end. I dont care much about driveability, and i realy want that mean lope. Im already ordering parts to beef up the trany, and a 3500 stall. Also on order is a new 2 stage wet kit . I still have my turbo plans, but there on hold. How much HP is a 231/231 worth? My main goal with this is to get the truck into the 12s on a 5.3 alone. Then what ever i get with the NOS is a bonus. Is this even possible, or am i being to optimistic?

 

I am happy with my cam and I wouldn't go any bigger on such a small motor. The problem you are gonn ahave is going to high in dur is gonna bring your peak power waaaay up into the mid 6k range or more. You would have to run a 110 LSA or lower to bring it back down. Plus our stock heads are gonna stall out near 6k I think. At least thats how my dyno sheet looks.

With my 226 cam I am making peak power at 6000-6,100rpm then it just stays flat all the way to 6,500 rpm. So either my heads are done, my intake is done or some other factor I can't think of which is causing me to stop making additional power (AFR was 12.0 all the way).

So my idea is to use a better intake like the LSX or LS6 and have some head work done to make better use of the big cams. Ohh, and make sure you get some bigger injectors. My next step is 38lb injectors, custom catback exhaust and a 150hp NX kit.

 

I already have my heads milled and ported. And 32lb injectors w/ vortech inline fuel pump. And idle is already set at 800rpms. I want to eventualy get bigger injectors though. To swap your cam did you pull the intake and radiator, grill section? How long roughfly does it take?

 

You dont have to remove the intake nor the grille.

Just remove unbolt the 2 top bolts that hold the radiator to the radiator support, push the radiator forward (towards engine) and when you are ready to remove the cam have someone lift the right side of the radiator and push it over toward the passanger side and hold it there. The only line you have to remove is the top radiator hose.

With electric fans a cam swap should only take a few hours. It's the little finishing touches like checking lifter preload and such that take so long. The actual labor is easy

Sounds like you got everyhting you need.

 

i am no expert but based on my limited cam and stall experience that cam is too big for that stall to be ideal NA. my 234/232 on prety much stock 6.0 doesn't come into the power till 4200rpm.

if you really want it to run as hard as it can NA then you may have to up the stall but a smaller cam and that same 3500stall would probably be the better all around choice, especialy when you spray it.

 

I'm with ya Parish..

I'm in the same boat. My stall is too small right now but once I blow this stock tranny to pieces and install the 4l80 I'll have to buy a new stall so 3500 here I come. Should match my cam close enough to work well.

 

What about a LS6 ZO6 cam (204/218 dur @ 0.050 and 0.550/0.550 lift)? How is the power range on that? How would my stock heads react to it. If i added patriot stage 2 heads, where would they stall?

 

i dont mind going to even a 3800-4000 stall, but i still plan to spray,ALOT. Something as small as a 50 shot should overcome the some-what weak low end. I dont however want to rev past 6500-6700rpms.
what do you do about the lifters if you dont take the intake off?

 

F8LPONY, your not still using stock springs are you?

 

Springs are a must. Your ported heads will help your engine breathe and I definitely recommend LT headers if you don't have them. IMO, that stall should be OK, though you would benefit from a larger one. I know my application is a bit different but, the 3000 stall works great with my 244-612 112 cam. I know people here kind of frown 2.02" valves in a 5.3 but, with that size cam you're looking for, I think you'd benefit from them. Just a thought.