Looks like a lot of extra clutter and a lot of work for not much payoff at the dyno.

 

You won't see anything different than a K&N on the dyno, but on the street is where you see the differences. It's also a lot less "clutter" than you think. I haven't posted the pictures of the new airbox yet, but it fits perfect and reduces the amount of tubing.

 

hopefully nobody...just my opinion.

jake, i hate to sound like a dick in every post towards you and im really not that way but i think your just getting a huge placebo effect. the gains you MIGHT have gotten over a k&n setup would be going from open element to a sealed box. its very bulky too. makes it hard to turn a wrench under there.

vararam should take over UPD's old design IMO. they went out of business about a year back and had a kickass design....the material quality of it sucks though, and their customer service sucked even more. vararam seems to have great customer service but i havent seen a design from them that i would even consider yet run the idea of molding a lid and tube by them and see what they say. ill donate my current UPD intake lid and tube for them to duplicate. im sure theres TONS of guys who would run the upd design if it was still available and more durable than this flimsy upd crap i got.

 

I agree with stewart and i'll give my 2 cents on another topic

putting the MAF that close to the TB is just asking for problems, lets say you are pushing WOT and you shutdown fast the air thats moving under vacum is gonna slam into the now closed TB and backflow through the maf and cause the motor to stumble cause it will read almost 0 airflow

 

I understand what you're saying Stew, but I'm not experiencing any kind of placebo effect. I had my doubts, but I got to try one out to see how it runs. It's no different than the K&N down low, but at speed it outperforms the K&N outright. You're more than welcome to test it out.

I do admit that changing a belt would be a bitch with the intake on, but if you're doing any serious work in there the intake usually gets taken out first.

David, I haven't had that issue at all but I know where you're going with it. The MAF being so close to the TB makes for a more accurate reading than down the tube, but at an instant close (cable tb) the MAF would read a near nothing airflow. I think that since our trucks don't go below 12% throttle (DBW) even on full let off it doesn't disturb the MAF. It helps a lot with getting accurate IAT's too since the sensor is right there in front of the TB.

 

[QUOTE=jakebdb56;3930533]I understand what you're saying Stew, but I'm not experiencing any kind of placebo effect. I had my doubts, but I got to try one out to see how it runs. It's no different than the K&N down low, but at speed it outperforms the K&N outright. You're more than welcome to test it out.
[QUOTE]

so your basing your evidence on a butt dyno...that does not convince me, or anybody else here who has been around performance for a while. unless your strapping on nitrous or forced induction your butt dyno fails. get some track numbers saying it works better. you cant feel 5 hp...if you got that out of it.

 

I have logs, that's about it. You're absolutely right that I need to take it to the track, but until recently I haven't had a transmission with 2nd gear haha. On another note, you can't really dyno a ram air intake since the ram air effect only takes place with speed. You're more than welcome to check it out or even take a ride in the truck if you don't believe what I say.

 

Ship your truck to Arlington, TX with the keys in it and I'll gladly test it.

and return it...

 

Well i think the main problem in the design that i have is with the tubes that go from the scoops to the air box, if they had some molded tubes and silicone connectors, it would look so much better, and would flow alot smoother....IMO

 

I agree the Dryer Vent can't be helping smooth flow