What's going on guys, im needing some help after installing a tru cool on my 06 Silverado. It already had a factory trans cooler so I'm still using those lines didn't cut them or anything just used the provided hose to "extend" the lines. After i installed it I put in 1/2 a quart of ATF. Now from all the research I've done about everyone says they're not getting temps hotter than 150* but if I park mine and let it idle for about 20 mins or longer the temp starts increasing to about 180*. If i go and drive it after that it'll go back down to under 150* but it hasn't been very hot here yet so I know the cooler air is helping. Also where should the level be at on the dipstick now? If I read it with the temp being on the pic it barely covers the cold part of the tip at the very bottom.

 

Temps sound just fine, you aren't moving so there is no air to cool the fluid and it just starts to rise.

Fluid level should be measured with the transmission hot and the vehicle running, ideally it should be at the top dot or top of the hash marks on the dipstick or very close too it. If you are still at the cold mark when warm just add a 1/4th to 1/2 quart.

 

Have you scanned it with a scantool to see if it's really that high? Might be an overzealous gauge.

How did you connect the trucool? With rubber line or the factory lines where the passenger side line is cut/flipped?

If it's rubber line, make sure it's not kinked. You can also disconnect both ends of the line and blow them out with compressed air.

I can't comment on the idle temp...never really paid attention but during the summer it might get to 150 while driving stop and go and a hard pull.

 

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Im going to let it heat back up to that temp and add more fluid hopefully that'll keep it down some but it is dropping back down once I go and drive it so that's good

I didn't cut the lines just used the supplied hose and added one of the supplied clamps on the "curve" so it doesn't kink. I don't have a scan tool so I'm just going by the cluster gauge but if I go and drive it it'll come back down to just under 150* it's just if I let it sit and idle for awhile it'll start going up as well as engine temp but the fans kick on and bring engine temp back down to 210

 

I'm running only the Tru Cool and I rarely got above 140 until I stuck a piece of cardboard in front of it. That fluid is heated through the radiator and then cooled in the trans cooler, 150 would sound fine while moving and no air moving through it would sound about right. You didn't move any of the metal lines getting close to the exhaust did you? Just throwing out ideas....

 

I run the tru cool and never get hotter than 165 ( Autometer gauge with sender in the top of trans ) while moving. Mine is set up to go through the radiator like the factory cooler. Daily driver truck in texas with 3200 stall and 33s

 

I have a massive derale cooler with an electric fan plumbed in line after the factory radiator cooler and see about 200-205*F (factory thermistor in valvebody) on a really hot 105*F DFW day getting on it a little around town or towing while moving in slow traffic. Once I am rolling down the road in lockup, I see temps in the 150-170*F range. In cooler weather I have seen it struggle to reach 120*F for hundreds of miles. I have a phoenix of weatherford 11" 2,600 stall in a 4L80E.

 

The radiator is heating up the trans fluid. Bypass it if you want it to run cooler.

 

It runs hotter without the radiator cooler in place atleast in my setup. I have tried it both ways. Its the converter that causes the temps to rise.

 

Yes, Im aware the converter is what generates most of the heat. The stock cooler is nothing more then a coil of metal hose inside the side bank of the radiator that's filled with 200+ degree coolant. I would call that a warmer not a cooler wouldn't you? Don't believe me check for yourself.