I'm with the previous comments, if your truck is injured, best to keep it under your supervision, and unless you have something in writing, hard for you to prove anything. But I would get a lawyer to write a letter or show up in person and scare the crap out of him with the threat of litigation and a long court battle, whether or not you have a strong case. He might be willing to foot the bill for a new motor than the thought of being drug through a court battle and hiring a lawyer.

 

The reason it went to the trans shop was because it was makeing a tapping noise and everyone thought it was a cracked flexplate. My old trans. had 190,000 miles on it ,so while he was going to be in there to replace the flexplate i had him replace the 4l60 with one built by rpm transmissions. If that didnt fix it, i was certain it was a lifter(s). I told him that after he installs the trans. that i would pick it up and for him not to drive it and he said "ok, i dont want to hurt the motor anymore than it already is."

I had checked the valvetrain and everything was good. Nothing was broke, loose, or bent. We also checked each cylinder with a bore scope and it was also good, now #6 piston has some nasty valve marks on it. The engine has 3000 miles on it and ive been scared to even get on it because i knew the old 4l60 couldnt handle it, so i know the engine wasnt beat on or ragged out. I know i dont have a snowballs chance in hell because i dont have anything in writing, but i have to try something.

 

I agree with the general population on this one. I always say the best thing to do is ask the shop what to do. He might have a good suggestion/resolution for you. If he says he flat out won't do anything for you, then it is your decision how to handle it legally. Obviously the tapping wasn't a Flexplate, so even if he replaced it for you and didn't drive it, this situation would have happened. Mechanics deal with a lot of people, who knows he might have a smoking deal for you on a LS1 short block, and help or do the labor at a great deal. I would be careful about putting his name on the net though, if most people found that in a negative way they would be reluctant to go out of their way to help you (that's just my opinion).I wish you the best of luck with it, keep us updated.

 

The advise you are getting here is worth exactly what you're paying for it, including mine. Get that lawyer quickly. You have a shop that agreed to do work AND agreed to the restrictions you put in place. He then ignored said restrictions. You may not have it on paper, but a good lawyer may get you at least a partial settlement. Always frustrating to feel taken advantage of. Good luck and let us know.

 

Hello , sorry for You're loss , it saddens me to hear of any Chevy small block going to Chevy small block Heaven or Hell in this case , but it sounds like to me that You had a loose rod bolt or 2 or possibly a defective rod (less likely) or maybe a loose bolt flying around in the crankcase . Either way the "trans" guy should have respected You're instructions and waited until You took care of the knock/noise/tic . I'm afraid You probably would be wasting time and money fighting it but definately get an expert opinion or 2 . Good luck and keep us up to the minute .

 

I'm gonna quote your very first post in your other thread.

then TAP TAP TAP TAP TAP TAP TAP TAP!!! As soon as i heard it i shut it down. Then i thought "MY ENGINE IS F@%$&D!"

Well, it looks like you were correct from the start. Your trans mechanic just proved it. I think it's kinda silly that you want to blame someone else for this happening. In fact, it almost seems like you tried to set him up for the blame.

 

To the OP, some guys love to hate on others in internet forums. Ignore them.

Bottom line, the trans mechanic went against your instructions and drove the vehicle anyway. The problem was likely fixable, or at least rebuildable, before. Now you're screwed, as a direct result of him not doing as instructed.

 

I feel for you man, but it seems this is one of those lesson learned kind of things. Id see if he is willing to help at all with your situation.

 

who built your engine? . . . sounds like a rod bearing went out

 

the engine was already busted...it just happened to let go when he took it out. for all you know it may have spit while you were loading onto the flat bed. i would just lick my wounds and move on if i were you. taking it to court will cost you more in lawyer fees than just going out and picking up a 5.3 for 500 or a 6.0 for 1k. if i was a judge and saw a modified engine that was freshly built by a mechanic i didnt know- i would chalk it up to the "gotta pay to play" rule.