The Master Cyllinder cap that comes w/the Motive Power bleeder will work on GM model ('95-'99) light duty truck master cyllinders? Thanks. This is a real informative thread... I asked a power brake booster question in the brake section...Anyone? Thanks much. WJ

 

Hey Chingon no insult intended or implied. Just a comment that I liked that Motive Power Bleeder and thought it was a great looking product. Good find in my opinion. Quite innocent on my behalf and to be honest I don't really get the inference it caused. My apologies for the misunderstanding.

Peace

 

Hmm, not univeral? It appears to fit any master cylinder since it's oversized and comes with the J-bolt and chain. Basically, I'm wondering if I could use it on other vehicles, specifically a Jeep or two.

 

Oh hey, no worries bro. I thought it was funny. I've also heard guys say something looks "****" which I didn't get before either
Anyway, like I said before the bleeder is great. I forget how much I paid for it because it was on sale for pretty cheap. I wish I had seen that DIY website because that looks pretty much like mine.

 

The bleeder is the same but you just have to buy the one that comes with the cap for your truck. Honestly, I would just make your own if you're good at making things like that

 

heres a little something I found that may be of interest



If certain steps are followed, you won't have to mess with the "special procedure" annoyance. The "special bleeding procedure" typically involves a GM technician and his computer sending a set of commands to your ABS controller to open certain valves with the pump running. This is performed to flush out pockets of air trapped within the ABS manifold's labyrinth of orifices and cavities etc. In most cases this is not really necessary. When the pump/manifold is removed from the truck, all of the valves are closed sealing the manifold's "insides" from drawing in air. When you re-install the manifold, make sure the battery is disconnected (assuming repaired ABS controller is in place).



Then bleed the brakes as you would any conventional vehicle. When you are confident all air is out of the lines, connect the vehicle's battery and start the truck but do not roll forward or backward. Make sure that the brake pedal is firm and not spongy. Verify that there are no leaks where the hydraulic lines were re-connected and that the brake pedal keeps it position without slowly dropping to the floor. If all is good, take the vehicle for a low speed test drive. The ABS system will then perform a self check once you are above 5 MPH and the "ABS" and "brake" lamps should go dark. During this test the controller runs the pump motor and operates all of the valves very briefly. If the brake pedal keeps its firm feeling, there is no air in the manifold and you're done! If the pedal begins to feel soft or spongy, park the vehicle and manually bleed the brakes again. Test drive again, park and repeat the bleeding process until brakes are firm. This ABS "self-test" is performed every time you start and drive. It is similar to the "bleeding command" the GM tech performs, but your test drive makes your ABS controller do the same thing in the driveway without the GM tech and his computer. For the following next month you should check the brake lines at the manifold every few days to make sure there is no fluid leakage. At the same time, keep an eye on the brake fluid level in the reservoir for sudden changes. Safety first!



Regardless, you should have your brake fluid flushed every 3 years or 30,000 miles to keep all mechanical parts of your ABS system clean and in perfect working order.