Tool for bleeding brakes?
#1
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From: san antonio, tx
i've been searching for a tool to bleed my brakes properly. i've seen the reverse flow tools and suction tools and speed bleaders. what's the best and cheapest tool out there to bleed my 99 tahoe and 94 truck?
The old pumping the brake and opening the nut just doesn't really cut it.
thanks,
allen
The old pumping the brake and opening the nut just doesn't really cut it.
thanks,
allen
#2
TTT, and a link for ya if you haven't seen it already.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...Brake+Bleeding
Guess what I'm doing after I retorque my intake manifold bolts.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...Brake+Bleeding
Guess what I'm doing after I retorque my intake manifold bolts.
#5
That Motive Power Bleeder looks like the cats ***. Those pressure style bleeders are supposed to be the best way to bleed the brakes for the brake system. That is the first garden type pump up sprayer type that I have seen. Most are operated by shop air, hold a lot of fluid and are expensive.
The second best way is the vacuum pump and I use a Silverline by Mityvac and it works fine for my needs. It does need a bigger collection container. Just be sure to keep an eye on the resevoir and pump slow so that air does not get sucked up into the caliper or snug the bleed screw between pumps.
The third best way is the old fashion 2 man bleed. Not sure why it ends up third in preference but it to is prone to getting air in the lines if you are not careful and is more labor intensive.
Sometimes a system will gravity bleed once you get it started which can work well and should be easy on the system. Keep an eye on the resevoir.
Don't use fluid that has been sitting around exposed to the air for a while. This is true, even with the top on the can, once the seal is broken. Always use fluid from a new unopened can if possible. Brake fluid exposed to air is hydroscopic and will absorb moisture. Moisture boils at a much lower temperature than brake fluid and will cause air bubbles to form in the line and will cause brake fade and much longer stopping distances especially under panic braking. We all know that air will compress and water is just two gases combined in a liquid state waiting to return to their gaseous state at 212*F
The second best way is the vacuum pump and I use a Silverline by Mityvac and it works fine for my needs. It does need a bigger collection container. Just be sure to keep an eye on the resevoir and pump slow so that air does not get sucked up into the caliper or snug the bleed screw between pumps.
The third best way is the old fashion 2 man bleed. Not sure why it ends up third in preference but it to is prone to getting air in the lines if you are not careful and is more labor intensive.
Sometimes a system will gravity bleed once you get it started which can work well and should be easy on the system. Keep an eye on the resevoir.
Don't use fluid that has been sitting around exposed to the air for a while. This is true, even with the top on the can, once the seal is broken. Always use fluid from a new unopened can if possible. Brake fluid exposed to air is hydroscopic and will absorb moisture. Moisture boils at a much lower temperature than brake fluid and will cause air bubbles to form in the line and will cause brake fade and much longer stopping distances especially under panic braking. We all know that air will compress and water is just two gases combined in a liquid state waiting to return to their gaseous state at 212*F
#6
Originally Posted by Mort
That Motive Power Bleeder looks like the cats ***. Those pressure style bleeders are supposed to be the best way to bleed the brakes for the brake system. That is the first garden type pump up sprayer type that I have seen. Most are operated by shop air, hold a lot of fluid and are expensive.
The second best way is the vacuum pump and I use a Silverline by Mityvac and it works fine for my needs. It does need a bigger collection container. Just be sure to keep an eye on the resevoir and pump slow so that air does not get sucked up into the caliper or snug the bleed screw between pumps.
The third best way is the old fashion 2 man bleed. Not sure why it ends up third in preference but it to is prone to getting air in the lines if you are not careful and is more labor intensive.
Sometimes a system will gravity bleed once you get it started which can work well and should be easy on the system. Keep an eye on the resevoir.
Don't use fluid that has been sitting around exposed to the air for a while. This is true, even with the top on the can, once the seal is broken. Always use fluid from a new unopened can if possible. Brake fluid exposed to air is hydroscopic and will absorb moisture. Moisture boils at a much lower temperature than brake fluid and will cause air bubbles to form in the line and will cause brake fade and much longer stopping distances especially under panic braking. We all know that air will compress and water is just two gases combined in a liquid state waiting to return to their gaseous state at 212*F
The second best way is the vacuum pump and I use a Silverline by Mityvac and it works fine for my needs. It does need a bigger collection container. Just be sure to keep an eye on the resevoir and pump slow so that air does not get sucked up into the caliper or snug the bleed screw between pumps.
The third best way is the old fashion 2 man bleed. Not sure why it ends up third in preference but it to is prone to getting air in the lines if you are not careful and is more labor intensive.
Sometimes a system will gravity bleed once you get it started which can work well and should be easy on the system. Keep an eye on the resevoir.
Don't use fluid that has been sitting around exposed to the air for a while. This is true, even with the top on the can, once the seal is broken. Always use fluid from a new unopened can if possible. Brake fluid exposed to air is hydroscopic and will absorb moisture. Moisture boils at a much lower temperature than brake fluid and will cause air bubbles to form in the line and will cause brake fade and much longer stopping distances especially under panic braking. We all know that air will compress and water is just two gases combined in a liquid state waiting to return to their gaseous state at 212*F
Maybe that's why Chingon likes that unit so well.
Hey Chingon, is the master cylinder cap for that Motive unit universal?
Good write up! I didn't think about the brake fluid. Too bad I have about 4 partially full cans. Guess I'll trash those. Luckily I have about a half dozen sealed ones (long story...)
#7
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From: Pueblo de Nuestra Señora la Reina de los Ángeles de la Porciúncula
Originally Posted by OBXMarine
The cat's *** eh?
Maybe that's why Chingon likes that unit so well.
Hey Chingon, is the master cylinder cap for that Motive unit universal?
Good write up! I didn't think about the brake fluid. Too bad I have about 4 partially full cans. Guess I'll trash those. Luckily I have about a half dozen sealed ones (long story...)
Maybe that's why Chingon likes that unit so well.
Hey Chingon, is the master cylinder cap for that Motive unit universal?
Good write up! I didn't think about the brake fluid. Too bad I have about 4 partially full cans. Guess I'll trash those. Luckily I have about a half dozen sealed ones (long story...)
Is "cat's ***" supposed to be an insult? HAH! 
Anyway, the cap is NOT universal. The bleeder is a nice piece and works great. Cat's ***, whatever, it does the job and it does it well...and quick.
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#8
Originally Posted by Chingon
Is "cat's ***" supposed to be an insult? HAH! 
Anyway, the cap is NOT universal. The bleeder is a nice piece and works great. Cat's ***, whatever, it does the job and it does it well...and quick.
besides, I figured it'd be a good way to get your attention.
Thanks BTW!
#9
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From: Pueblo de Nuestra Señora la Reina de los Ángeles de la Porciúncula
Originally Posted by OBXMarine
No insult intended, just trying to joke around
besides, I figured it'd be a good way to get your attention.
Thanks BTW!
besides, I figured it'd be a good way to get your attention.
Thanks BTW!

Intended or not, it doesn't matter. This is the Internet, but some people on here *cough* Parish, XLR8NSS *cough* seem to get butt hurt...oh well.Anyway, here's a couple pics I just snapped(I'm bored
).

The second pic is just to get an idea of how big the cap is. It is a little bigger than the master cylinder hole but it comes with those "J" shaped bolts(dunno if there's a name for 'em) and a chain so you can get it sealed really tight, then you pump it to get pressure in there, then bleed the lines. It's so easy it's funny
#10
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From: in the Trans Am
did a little searching and saw this build your own pressure bleeder.....looks fairly similar,if you want to save a couple bucks and do it yourself


