I am getting a flashing SES light that will shut itself off after 20-30 sec after a hard pull. It seems that I will get the light at the top of third just before the shift/ sometimes in fourth. It will only do it when I jump into it from a roll. I'm not sure if it is a misfire, or a problem with my verter.( Not properly down shifting or not fully locking/unlocking. Am I correct to assume that the flashing ses light means that the converter is getting too hot from unburned fuel setting off the flashing SES light??? WTF??? Thank you for your time, -Parker

 

Go and get the stored codes downloaded. It sounds like a multi cylinder misfire to me from going lean but that is only a guess. I would not do a hard pull again until you get it figured out.

 

That's just it. There are no codes when I checked. The light will come on and flash, then I'll take my foot out of it and 20 sec later the light will go off. WTF does that mean!?! I think it is going rich not lean though.

 

A flashing SES (MIL) means that there is a severe misfire occurring. Once the conditions that caused the misfire have passed then the SES seems to reset itself. What is occuring may not be enough to set a DTC. You may need to have your PCM read by a system that can read DTCs stored in memory as well as active and pending codes. Why do you think this problem is caused by going rich?

You can check your MAF and make sure it is clean and that all connections between it and the TB are tight and not leaking. Check your exhaust for leaks as well.

You can also check your plugs and wires/coil packs. Look for oil, carbonizing or cracks on your plugs. They should be a nice even light tan color. Check your plug gap is .055 to .060 as well. If you find a bad plug you can replace it in a different location to see if you have a bad wire or coil pack by monitoring the plug in the original location. Or move the wire/coil pack and see if the plug in the new location developes a problem.

You can put a fuel pressure gauge on your fuel rail and monitor your pressure to see if your pump is weak at WOT. Check that all the connectors to your fuel injectors are good and have the required voltage. You can pull your rails and check for any accumulation of dirt or rust. Pull your Injectors and see if they are plugged or have any dirt in them. Have you replaced your fuel filter. One tank of dirty gas may have been enough to partially plug it up or put a lot of water in your tank. Also if your tank is low ( below about 1/8th ) then you may be getting some fuel starvation. I get it bad in my truck if I try to run it hard with less than 1/4 tank of fuel. If you can monitor your O2s and FTs to see if they are within spec.

I would also run this problem by Nelson to see if it could be a problem in your tune that can be corrected.

Good luck figuring this out.

 

OK. I thought that the only thing that could make the SES light flash like that was the Cats overheating from too much fuel being thrown on them. I am now a tech by any means. That being said I have know idea weather it is going rich or lean. The truck feels very strong and other than that it is running great. I have been getting some of the best gas mileage in a long time. I guess I will break down and take it in to the dealer on Monday. I have been wanting to get some scan software/hardware for the truck for a long time. This may be the excuse I have been looking for. Thanks for the input. -Parker

 

When is the last time you checked your plugs? I have tripped a blinking light twice in my truck. Once was a cracked plug. The other one of my wires was not on the coil all the way.

I would remove and/or replace (depending on how long it has been) my plugs. If you just remove, check the gap on them and just check the plug out in general. Then remove the wires totally and put them back on. You should "feel" one click when you put on the plug end and "hear" two clicks when yopu put on the coil end. If you don't pull it back off and do it until you do.

On the subject of software, this is how I was able to see the cracked plug cylinder. In EFI live you can monitor each cylinder for misfires. I drove it about a half block and was able to tell which cylinder was doing it. When I went to remove the plug, it broke off - easy fix. I put on headers without removing them and must have hit it.

Most of your good software out there will see set codes and pending ones. EASE diagnostic software was only $129 when I got mine. Not sure of the price now, but it can do that. May be a good alternative if you never plan to get into the tuning side of things.

 

I pulled 4 plugs last night to see how they looked. I had them replaced 25K or so, maybe little less. The top part was white w/ the bottom connector being alittle red? What does that mean???

 

I assume you mean the electrode? They sound normal to me. If you had them replaced 25k back and they are NGKs, you do need to replace. You should inspect all 8.

 

I went back with the stock Delco Irridiums. I will probally pull the rest this afternoon. Thanks, -Parker