This is THAT thread, spend my money!
08-19-2005, 06:07 PM
#1
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This is THAT thread, spend my money!
Ok So I've got a 250$ gift certificate to TBYRNE and I've got another $1,000 I can spend on the truck. I'm looking for my truck to be like my last car, a 2001 SS Camaro. I miss it 
. I want to run in the 13's I believe. I drive it everyday to and from work, so it's got to be driveable. No huge cams or anything.
Could someone explain to my how a converter works? I see everyone has one but I have no idea what they do or how they do it!
So there it is, what do you guys think?
. I want to run in the 13's I believe. I drive it everyday to and from work, so it's got to be driveable. No huge cams or anything.Could someone explain to my how a converter works? I see everyone has one but I have no idea what they do or how they do it!
So there it is, what do you guys think?
08-19-2005, 06:19 PM
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a converter will put you into the power band much quicker and will provide better accelleration-faster off the line performance. With the $, I would get a nelson tune first off and then maybe a cam swap. the converter will definately give you some performance, personally I'd go tune and converter, but you'll probably go over your grand limit depending on what brand tc you go w/. TCI and Yank are pretty popular around here. good luck 
08-19-2005, 06:42 PM
#3
The converter will also keep the rpm's up higher after it shifts so it won't lose as much when you change gears. You will defenitly need a good tune for the converter to work right though, because of tq management. A good converter can drop probably .5 sec. off your 1/4 mile time!
08-19-2005, 06:52 PM
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Its going to take alot more than that to get you near what your SS was like. I would get Pacesetter headers ($400 or less), a nice used cam($200). a wait4me tune (hes a sponser and I think he was doing them for $150 or so), and use the rest to get a good used 3K converter.......
08-19-2005, 06:52 PM
#5
Save It Up...
...for a Radix.
If I read you correctly, I too did not want to suffer from the side effects of larger cams, stalls and such in my daily driving. All of these tend to hit your mpg for the worse too. I researched the Radix and was saving for it but did not have to wait long because my ATV riding area dried up so I sold the unit and tossed the $$$$ under my hood.
No regrets for sure. What a sleeper!
It's been 2 decades since I have fooled with cams and stalls. From what I went through back then, the stalls do not help mpg for sure. They created extra transmission heat also. If you get a 2500 stall, it is always slipping until it reaches 2500 rpm.
The only hassle with the Radix is driving for mpg in the city. It's takes some getting used to, in order to take off from lights and stop signs and staying out of boost. If you go with a smaller pulley than provided with the kit, it gets harder to do. With the stock pulley I lost 1 mpg city and none on the highway.
If you could get a demo ride in one you may likely generate the patience to hold out for one.
You Asked.
If I read you correctly, I too did not want to suffer from the side effects of larger cams, stalls and such in my daily driving. All of these tend to hit your mpg for the worse too. I researched the Radix and was saving for it but did not have to wait long because my ATV riding area dried up so I sold the unit and tossed the $$$$ under my hood.
No regrets for sure. What a sleeper!
It's been 2 decades since I have fooled with cams and stalls. From what I went through back then, the stalls do not help mpg for sure. They created extra transmission heat also. If you get a 2500 stall, it is always slipping until it reaches 2500 rpm.
The only hassle with the Radix is driving for mpg in the city. It's takes some getting used to, in order to take off from lights and stop signs and staying out of boost. If you go with a smaller pulley than provided with the kit, it gets harder to do. With the stock pulley I lost 1 mpg city and none on the highway.
If you could get a demo ride in one you may likely generate the patience to hold out for one.
You Asked.
08-19-2005, 09:13 PM
#6
Id say a cam, converter and a tune. Radix is the easy way out. Either way, the tranny isnt gonna hold unless you take alot of timing out. Thats the only downside IMO to putting a radix on a truck. The tranny cant take it. So the programmer it comes with pretty much lames things out for the weak *** 4L60 to live. So in essence you cannot see the full potential of that blower without toasting the tranny.
Yes a converter makes more heat. But that is easily staved off with better, deeper cast aluminum tranny pans and a good trans cooler. As for the stalling and cam problems mentioned above..... If you dont get your truck tuned after you put in a cam its gonna run like *** plain and simple. BUT, once a tune is done you will have no issues at all. Things have changed big time since the days of stabbing cams into SBC's. Technology has given tuners full control over a plethora of engine parameters to iron out any idle or whatever problem attributed with a bigger cam. Look at the many many people on this board with big *** cams in 4.8's and 5.3's. Once tuned, the seeking/surging/drivability things disappear. Dont be afraid of a cam.
Yes a converter makes more heat. But that is easily staved off with better, deeper cast aluminum tranny pans and a good trans cooler. As for the stalling and cam problems mentioned above..... If you dont get your truck tuned after you put in a cam its gonna run like *** plain and simple. BUT, once a tune is done you will have no issues at all. Things have changed big time since the days of stabbing cams into SBC's. Technology has given tuners full control over a plethora of engine parameters to iron out any idle or whatever problem attributed with a bigger cam. Look at the many many people on this board with big *** cams in 4.8's and 5.3's. Once tuned, the seeking/surging/drivability things disappear. Dont be afraid of a cam.
08-19-2005, 10:16 PM
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you need to be VERY careful...
you need to be VERY careful what you post on here... i had a thread titled exactly like this about two three months ago. NOW, i have a $3K bill from summit racing and another 2500 bucks going off to Nelson. they are very sneaky here. all i wanted was to bust a few dodges, but it was my wallet in the process.... but thanks for all the help guys, couldnt killem without ya. 
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08-19-2005, 10:48 PM
#8
Originally Posted by DakotaKiller5.3
you need to be VERY careful what you post on here... i had a thread titled exactly like this about two three months ago. NOW, i have a $3K bill from summit racing and another 2500 bucks going off to Nelson. they are very sneaky here. all i wanted was to bust a few dodges, but it was my wallet in the process.... but thanks for all the help guys, couldnt killem without ya.
08-19-2005, 11:36 PM
#9
Originally Posted by 99Silver5.3
Id say a cam, converter and a tune. Radix is the easy way out. Either way, the tranny isnt gonna hold unless you take alot of timing out. Thats the only downside IMO to putting a radix on a truck. The tranny cant take it. So the programmer it comes with pretty much lames things out for the weak *** 4L60 to live. So in essence you cannot see the full potential of that blower without toasting the tranny.
Yes a converter makes more heat. But that is easily staved off with better, deeper cast aluminum tranny pans and a good trans cooler. As for the stalling and cam problems mentioned above..... If you dont get your truck tuned after you put in a cam its gonna run like *** plain and simple. BUT, once a tune is done you will have no issues at all. Things have changed big time since the days of stabbing cams into SBC's. Technology has given tuners full control over a plethora of engine parameters to iron out any idle or whatever problem attributed with a bigger cam. Look at the many many people on this board with big *** cams in 4.8's and 5.3's. Once tuned, the seeking/surging/drivability things disappear. Dont be afraid of a cam.
Yes a converter makes more heat. But that is easily staved off with better, deeper cast aluminum tranny pans and a good trans cooler. As for the stalling and cam problems mentioned above..... If you dont get your truck tuned after you put in a cam its gonna run like *** plain and simple. BUT, once a tune is done you will have no issues at all. Things have changed big time since the days of stabbing cams into SBC's. Technology has given tuners full control over a plethora of engine parameters to iron out any idle or whatever problem attributed with a bigger cam. Look at the many many people on this board with big *** cams in 4.8's and 5.3's. Once tuned, the seeking/surging/drivability things disappear. Dont be afraid of a cam.
My sentiments exactly...a good tune alone will make a night and day difference...I knocked .9 sec off my 1/4 times (16.5 to 15.6) and gained 7.8mph (81.7 to 89.5) with a mild cam, adequate injectors (21lbs to 24lbs) and a tune. If I just threw a simple TrailBlazer stall into the equation, I just might be on the fringe of 14's (or at least low 15's)...this is on a 4x4 with 33" tires...
Last edited by budhayes3; 08-20-2005 at 12:15 AM.
08-20-2005, 06:28 AM
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Wow, alot of money to be spent here! So can you have our transmissions rebuilt to be stronger? IS there any other option tto stop the tranny from dying?