It started with a cam.....
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It started with a cam.....
Ive posted a few times trying to get the right info on multiple subjects and you guys have answerd every question ive had. If this is not the right place to post plz lemme know. I have a 2008 silverado nnbs 5.3 4x4 ext cab flex fuel 4l60e 33s on 24s, front leveling kit, daily driver only driven on weekends to cruise around in and have fun... im not wanting to do any swapping at this point.
It all started with wanting a cam and long tube headers i have chosen the stage 4 cam from tsp and with that a 3200 stall. I will be dropping the transmission so i decided to go with a rebuild kit from trutechtrans later adding a larger trans cooler. Going with 4.56 gears in the front and back. So going to go ahead and put new seals, bearings, seats etc in both so going to drop the rear and front. This will give me good access to do some por15 on the frame and get the cases painted you know why not. So drive train is completely out of the truck. Why stop there? While doing the cam lets pull the motor port the heads, delete the afm, new oil pump, gaskets head bolts and a nice red por15 engine paint. I dont plan on getting into rebuliding the bottom end, just cleaning it up new gaskets and headbolts. Im keeping this truck. It will not go anywhere and i do not plan to swap anything at this time untill the rebuilt 4l60e craps out. Does anybody see anything wrong with going this far? I will do it all myself and feel "fairly" confident. It will never go on a track. Id love to do a supercharger one day but not on this particular truck. Am i trying to justify it to myself? Maybe. Would i "like" to hear your criticism? No... Do i need to hear your criticism? Yes.... Im looking at around 4 grand to do everything listed in house. Is there going to be unseen cost? of course but thats where im drawing the line for now.
1. Buy Haynes manual
2. Remove/rebuild rear end w/ 4.56 gears
3. Replace driveshaft yoke w/nickel plated
4. Drop transmission -rebuild? -3200 stall
5. Remove/rebuild front transfer case w/ 4.56 gears
6. Pull motor, paint?
6a. replace rear main seal
6b. Cam, lifters, springs, afm delete, oil pump, timing chain
6c. LT headers, port job
7. Reassembly
It all started with wanting a cam and long tube headers i have chosen the stage 4 cam from tsp and with that a 3200 stall. I will be dropping the transmission so i decided to go with a rebuild kit from trutechtrans later adding a larger trans cooler. Going with 4.56 gears in the front and back. So going to go ahead and put new seals, bearings, seats etc in both so going to drop the rear and front. This will give me good access to do some por15 on the frame and get the cases painted you know why not. So drive train is completely out of the truck. Why stop there? While doing the cam lets pull the motor port the heads, delete the afm, new oil pump, gaskets head bolts and a nice red por15 engine paint. I dont plan on getting into rebuliding the bottom end, just cleaning it up new gaskets and headbolts. Im keeping this truck. It will not go anywhere and i do not plan to swap anything at this time untill the rebuilt 4l60e craps out. Does anybody see anything wrong with going this far? I will do it all myself and feel "fairly" confident. It will never go on a track. Id love to do a supercharger one day but not on this particular truck. Am i trying to justify it to myself? Maybe. Would i "like" to hear your criticism? No... Do i need to hear your criticism? Yes.... Im looking at around 4 grand to do everything listed in house. Is there going to be unseen cost? of course but thats where im drawing the line for now.
1. Buy Haynes manual
2. Remove/rebuild rear end w/ 4.56 gears
3. Replace driveshaft yoke w/nickel plated
4. Drop transmission -rebuild? -3200 stall
5. Remove/rebuild front transfer case w/ 4.56 gears
6. Pull motor, paint?
6a. replace rear main seal
6b. Cam, lifters, springs, afm delete, oil pump, timing chain
6c. LT headers, port job
7. Reassembly
Last edited by Cmac2008; 12-15-2018 at 01:51 AM. Reason: Added info
#2
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That is a lot of information that is poorly organized.
I suggest, and I think most will agree, pump the brakes and outline what your real goals and budget are before proceeding with the engine mods. You'll end up spending less money and have something more enjoyable if you take this advice.
I think you are on the right track with a stall and gears. I wouldn't touch the trans until it pops, then go right to the 4l80e.
I suggest, and I think most will agree, pump the brakes and outline what your real goals and budget are before proceeding with the engine mods. You'll end up spending less money and have something more enjoyable if you take this advice.
I think you are on the right track with a stall and gears. I wouldn't touch the trans until it pops, then go right to the 4l80e.
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arthursc2 (12-14-2018)
#4
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POR15 products are great on paper, but I have had very limited success with their roll on stuff. Their brake paint kit was a disaster for me, and I expect the engine paint to be the same story for you.
1. Leave the engine in, pull the heads in frame if you want, but def not needed, will make plenty of power anyway
1A. Def delete AFM, but you can leave the motor in to do that, and pull heads in frame. Use LS7 lifters for this mild build.
2. Gears before stall, IMO. Save the stall money for the 4L80
3. Dont worry about the frame, just hit it with satin black spray paint if you need to do anything
4. TSP makes good long tubes, get their 1 3/4 stainless ones
5. Dont over think this project, its fine. Do things right, have your torque wrench ready and have your numbers printed out and ready to go. 1 step at a time.
1. Leave the engine in, pull the heads in frame if you want, but def not needed, will make plenty of power anyway
1A. Def delete AFM, but you can leave the motor in to do that, and pull heads in frame. Use LS7 lifters for this mild build.
2. Gears before stall, IMO. Save the stall money for the 4L80
3. Dont worry about the frame, just hit it with satin black spray paint if you need to do anything
4. TSP makes good long tubes, get their 1 3/4 stainless ones
5. Dont over think this project, its fine. Do things right, have your torque wrench ready and have your numbers printed out and ready to go. 1 step at a time.
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POR15 products are great on paper, but I have had very limited success with their roll on stuff. Their brake paint kit was a disaster for me, and I expect the engine paint to be the same story for you.
1. Leave the engine in, pull the heads in frame if you want, but def not needed, will make plenty of power anyway
1A. Def delete AFM, but you can leave the motor in to do that, and pull heads in frame. Use LS7 lifters for this mild build.
2. Gears before stall, IMO. Save the stall money for the 4L80
3. Dont worry about the frame, just hit it with satin black spray paint if you need to do anything
4. TSP makes good long tubes, get their 1 3/4 stainless ones
5. Dont over think this project, its fine. Do things right, have your torque wrench ready and have your numbers printed out and ready to go. 1 step at a time.
1. Leave the engine in, pull the heads in frame if you want, but def not needed, will make plenty of power anyway
1A. Def delete AFM, but you can leave the motor in to do that, and pull heads in frame. Use LS7 lifters for this mild build.
2. Gears before stall, IMO. Save the stall money for the 4L80
3. Dont worry about the frame, just hit it with satin black spray paint if you need to do anything
4. TSP makes good long tubes, get their 1 3/4 stainless ones
5. Dont over think this project, its fine. Do things right, have your torque wrench ready and have your numbers printed out and ready to go. 1 step at a time.
1. I just figured since i was going to have transmission off to fix my rear main seal leak and heads off why not go ahead and pull the block? Am i flawed in my thinking.
2. Definately somthing to think about. Just my cam post everybody told me to go with a stall
3. I actually already have 3 qts of unopened por15 and 2 qts of the chassis topcoat from a past project and the shelf life isnt great on the stuff so id like to use it up.
4.would you recommend tsp over the speed engineering budget headers?
#6
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i am definatley not set in stone on which cam i will go with. But i really dont drive it alot. I have a company vehicle that i drive 6 days a week and my truck is only used for cruising around town in or going to dinner. I have 2 cars that i use to actually travel with.
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