squeeze anything else in?
Aug 12, 2009 | 08:57 AM
#32
Aug 13, 2009 | 09:38 AM
#34
plus one on the servo and shift kit. if you havent gotten one yet id go with the transgo HD2 i just both of those in my truck. hell of alot better shifts keeps the rpms up. and hell of difference on the 30 roll. no more time spent building up it just jumps!
Aug 13, 2009 | 09:59 AM
#35
checked out the Y yestereday and nothing is touching or lose so it must be rattling something else. it only happens every now and then at idle or low rpms. the snap ring is seated right too.
should the truck be tuned for the servo kit? i was thinking of doing it later on down the road when i change my trans fluid. i've never done one of those before. they go in from in the trans pan right?
should the truck be tuned for the servo kit? i was thinking of doing it later on down the road when i change my trans fluid. i've never done one of those before. they go in from in the trans pan right?
Aug 13, 2009 | 11:39 AM
#36
checked out the Y yestereday and nothing is touching or lose so it must be rattling something else. it only happens every now and then at idle or low rpms. the snap ring is seated right too.
should the truck be tuned for the servo kit? i was thinking of doing it later on down the road when i change my trans fluid. i've never done one of those before. they go in from in the trans pan right?
should the truck be tuned for the servo kit? i was thinking of doing it later on down the road when i change my trans fluid. i've never done one of those before. they go in from in the trans pan right?
Aug 13, 2009 | 11:55 AM
#37
checked out the Y yestereday and nothing is touching or lose so it must be rattling something else. it only happens every now and then at idle or low rpms. the snap ring is seated right too.
should the truck be tuned for the servo kit? i was thinking of doing it later on down the road when i change my trans fluid. i've never done one of those before. they go in from in the trans pan right?
should the truck be tuned for the servo kit? i was thinking of doing it later on down the road when i change my trans fluid. i've never done one of those before. they go in from in the trans pan right?
Shift kit is pretty easy. Drop the pan, unbolt the valvebody, seperator plate and 1-2 accumulator housing. You can change out the valves and springs on a bench. The only thing that you really have to do under the truck is the 3-4 accumulator piston, boost valve and the servo springs and shims iirc. Everything else can be done on a bench or table. It was my first time doing it and I found it very easy. Just needed some advice on what size holes to drill.
Aug 15, 2009 | 10:04 AM
#38
How is your steering shaft clearance with the headers?
Shift kit is pretty easy. Drop the pan, unbolt the valvebody, seperator plate and 1-2 accumulator housing. You can change out the valves and springs on a bench. The only thing that you really have to do under the truck is the 3-4 accumulator piston, boost valve and the servo springs and shims iirc. Everything else can be done on a bench or table. It was my first time doing it and I found it very easy. Just needed some advice on what size holes to drill.
Shift kit is pretty easy. Drop the pan, unbolt the valvebody, seperator plate and 1-2 accumulator housing. You can change out the valves and springs on a bench. The only thing that you really have to do under the truck is the 3-4 accumulator piston, boost valve and the servo springs and shims iirc. Everything else can be done on a bench or table. It was my first time doing it and I found it very easy. Just needed some advice on what size holes to drill.
Aug 16, 2009 | 10:15 AM
#40
hmm. i guess i can look at the pipe and see if there is any marks on it. i got a rattle that i still need to find. it's on the passenger side and rattles pretty good at low idle.
