some questions..
#1
Thread Starter
TECH Addict
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 2,146
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From: Baton Rouge, LA
1) posi rear end. which brand? i have 3.42 gears. do they make one for these or do i have to switch to 3.83. how much will it cost approx.?
2)exaust. how much should i be looking to spend for true dual 2.5" with a Xpipe?
2)exaust. how much should i be looking to spend for true dual 2.5" with a Xpipe?
#2
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Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,205
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From: as far away from Koonerville as humanly possible
There's a GM locker on ebay, auction ends today.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=1815006756
He's selling 3.73 gears too.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=1815000606
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=1815006756
He's selling 3.73 gears too.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=1815000606
#3
1. You don't have to replace the gear to add a posi. Athough I would recomend a change to at least a 3:73. I have had good luck with my Auburn posi. I know a lot of people would agree me. I also know one N20 junkie that doesn't like them <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> hint N20er hint <img border="0" title="" alt="[Razz]" src="gr_tounge.gif" /> I had my 3:73, Auburn posi, carrier and labor done at MTI for about 1 grand.
2. Unless you buy a premade cat back you should be able to get into a true dual ,X pipe, 2 mufflers and labor for less than $400. Aftermarket bolt up systems will cost anywhere from $250 to $750.
2. Unless you buy a premade cat back you should be able to get into a true dual ,X pipe, 2 mufflers and labor for less than $400. Aftermarket bolt up systems will cost anywhere from $250 to $750.
#5
you cant really just suggest a muffler. everybody likes different things, some people like quiet and some people like to be able to wake up our friends in europe <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> its all a matter of taste...
what are you looking for?
what are you looking for?
#6
I would recommend the Eaton locker. It is not clunky and strong. The factory locker sucks. That is probably why the one was on e-bay. It doesn't engage both wheels very quick and the locking portion kicks out above 20 mph, per GM. Since I drive on an ocassional ice patch I can verify that it will spin one wheel above 20. I have 4.10's and it is not too low of a gear.
#7
The factory locker is or at least was made by Eaton.
<img border="0" alt="[Truck]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_truck.gif" />
Heehee, I used the new graemlin.
<img border="0" alt="[Truck]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_truck.gif" />
Heehee, I used the new graemlin.
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#9
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Hotrodchevy:
<strong>I would recommend the Eaton locker. It is not clunky and strong. The factory locker sucks. That is probably why the one was on e-bay. It doesn't engage both wheels very quick and the locking portion kicks out above 20 mph, per GM. Since I drive on an ocassional ice patch I can verify that it will spin one wheel above 20. I have 4.10's and it is not too low of a gear.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">How come mine will spin both wheels past 20mph?
<strong>I would recommend the Eaton locker. It is not clunky and strong. The factory locker sucks. That is probably why the one was on e-bay. It doesn't engage both wheels very quick and the locking portion kicks out above 20 mph, per GM. Since I drive on an ocassional ice patch I can verify that it will spin one wheel above 20. I have 4.10's and it is not too low of a gear.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">How come mine will spin both wheels past 20mph?


