should i send these headers back?
#31
in theory it should only move the collector out. i'm hoping for roughly 1/8 at the front header flange bolt and 3/8 at the rear header flange bolt. I used small blocks of wood behind the flange to simulate a 2nd decked flange and the collector fits nicely tucked up under the car.
#32
#33
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 16,282
Likes: 438
From: Huntsville, AL
Depends how aggressive your belt is I suppose. A mill would certainly be the best bet.
Start with a 1/2" flange. Make a mark 3/8" from the bottom on one end, and 1/8" from the bottom on the other end, then draw a straight line connecting the two points. Angle the piece so this line is parallel to the cutting surface and press down until the line is at the belt or cutter.
Start with a 1/2" flange. Make a mark 3/8" from the bottom on one end, and 1/8" from the bottom on the other end, then draw a straight line connecting the two points. Angle the piece so this line is parallel to the cutting surface and press down until the line is at the belt or cutter.
#36
Got any buddy's with a Bridgeport mill? I would just tack weld it onto another block so it was flat, setup the block offset on the table and mill it down. Prob take 1/2 hour. Then I would weld the flanges together, clamp the header to the table, and use an end mill to recess the holes flat.
#39
Westside wanted nothing to do with it. What chaps my *** is i shouldnt have to do any of this. 1,200 american headers should fit as advertised. Not buying from arh again...
Craig gallant from gtp is working up a quote for me.
Craig gallant from gtp is working up a quote for me.








