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RPMSpeed 4 ls engine test for 2018

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Old 12-18-2017, 05:09 PM
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You are exactly backward on that. Torque comes from cr or stroke...and nearly always longer crank will increase cr unless you use a dished piston...but will always add cubic inch which adds power as well.

Honestly im only doing the 333 because i have an ls2 block that is at 4.030 and i have a spare 4.8 crank and 4.8 rods. They are currently being machined for floating pins as they are gen3 press fit rods and i prefer the floating pin design. If you are an old racer that should sound familiar though.
Old 12-20-2017, 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by smokeshow
Are there forged rod options for the 333? Any reason not to offer rectangle port heads as an option for it?
A few days of searching only shows a 6.250 rod with a .927 pin. That is the biggest issue really, the only 2 rods avail are the gen3 and gen4 rods.
BUT we are going to modify this rod for use with floating pin .945 pin pistons. It will mean measuring deck height and likely cutting .010-.030 off the deck surface but that is the easy part right? Then youll be set up at EXACTLY 0 deck and can use a thinner gasket to change quench and up the cr a bit as well! Or just gain ptv clearance also.

I will be documenting everything on these engines as they are assembled and machined.
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Old 12-27-2017, 10:30 AM
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333 will be done soon. Pics and info to follow.
Old 12-29-2017, 12:08 PM
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As we are getting closer to 333 assembly, we will be kicking around ideas for cams for the 333 and possible 5.1l 3.905 bore 4.8l crank and are open for input. A few guidelines though.

- Cam will be built for hyd rollers ie ls7 lifters or better, no solid roller.
- must be able to use a beehive spring such as Pac1219x or Manley 221438 or PSI 1511ml.
- does not have to be an actual existing lobe (yet)

We will be designing our own lobes for this and custom specs...and no we wont be calling it the high lift cup cam or high lift showroom stock cam...sorry to spoil all the lowkey jabs ;-)

We will be aiming for a safe rpm of 7200 on this setup UNLESS it keeps making power. While this isnt a "max effort" build, it will be very different and aimed more at straight out racing so have some fun, feel free to explain why. In the interest of staying on a "budget" and knowing that most would use them anyway, it will be using morel 6504 lifters set as close to .050 preload as possible. 11/32 Manton pushrods will be used also, but remember beehive springs only. 243 unported heads with our stainless LEADFOOT valves (solid stem) 2.000 intake 1.571 exhaust. They may be milled but not sure on actual measurement and chamber cc yet. Springs will be shimmed to within .050 of coil bind or as close as we can get.
Stock thickness head gasket and guaranteed 0 deck. The heads will be rounded out with a new rocker arm we are working on. Standard ls rocker body so solid slipper style tip with roller trunion.
We want this thing to spin..but on a quality budget. It is the oddball of this build so we have got to make it stick out.

I get too long winded on these things. Sorry.

So throw some ideas back and forth!
Old 12-29-2017, 12:16 PM
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I think the gm asa cam would be perfect for that motor....226/236 .525/.525 110lsa.
Old 12-29-2017, 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Deezl SS
I think the gm asa cam would be perfect for that motor....226/236 .525/.525 110lsa.
We already have a high lift asa cam version. 226/236 .600/.600 110lsa. It outperforms the gm version. But i dont think it will be what we are looking for in this combo.
Old 12-29-2017, 12:22 PM
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What are you looking for exactly? That motor will want to rev and live in the higher rpms.....similar to a circle track motor. If you already have a better version maybe make a dyno run with it to see what the motor likes. It's easy enough to do a cam swap especially when the motor is on a stand.
Old 12-29-2017, 12:26 PM
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Read the entire thread. Its not going to be on an engine stand. We already have in mind what we want to do, but we would like input as to what anyone else would. Just to keep things interesting.
Old 12-29-2017, 01:12 PM
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Easy guy, i read the thread. You stated the dyno "mule" was a truck. You said the truck would be used for all the engines (meaning you would have 1 engine in the truck and the other 2 on stands and hopefully not the floor). My comment was to make a run and when you pull it to dyno another of your engines it's easy enough to swap a cam when the motor is on a stand. Good luck with your tests.
Old 12-29-2017, 01:24 PM
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They wont all be dynod at the same time. They will be close, but not in succession like big magazine builds etc.
As it is, the test will eat up ALOT of time as it wont just be a throw it on the dyno, tune for WOT and slap it on the *** sort of thing. Even if it were it would still eat up alot of time. This is an enging comparison though and not a cam comparison per se. More of a one and done type of deal for each engine.
Not trying to snap at you but your response didnt seem like you read the thread. Sorry.


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