The LS world has so many options available, I am so used to the Duramax world where there are so few options available that it makes it super easy to pick what I want.

I basically know very little about spec'ing a cam for a gas build. So here is what I am after...

I want good driveablity all around, something that can potentially be ran N/A and turbo. I dont really care if it sounds lumpy or not. If it does, then cool, if it doesn't, then oh well.

The truck currently is a stock 5.3, with a 4l80e swap in progress. I have purchased a 3200 stall Circle D converter, so I believe that atleast opens up my cam selection decently.

My overall goals are turbo and around 550+/- whp, daily driver and weekend track machine. I was looking in to the Texas speed cam/head packages they offer, but once again, I dont know what cam would be good for me.

Any suggestions that I should look in to?

 

Slap a ISKY triple 12 cam in there, should be a good overall cam for a daily turbo truck.

You won't have to swap cylinder heads if that all the power you want to make. 243/799's will flow better but you can still get 706/862's to make great power with boost if those are what you have.

 

A stage 2 or stage 3 BTR truck cam.

With boost, ideally you'd want a cam with negative overlap. A cam with positive overlap will work but it won't be ideal.

 

Looking in to BTR, they have some nice cam/spring packages available. How do I know which length push rods I will need?

 

The base circle of the cam, how much you mill the heads/block, headgasket thickness and length of lifters have an impact of PR length.

Generally, if it's all stock, 7.4s is what you'll need.

The exception is if the cam is over .600 lift. You'll more then likely need 7.450s.

As always, it's best to measure PR length.

 

With those requirements, I'd swap some decent valve springs in and leave the stock cam shaft...

 

I was also contemplating this. But I figured if I was going to pull the motor and gap the rings as well as fix some oil leaks, I'd look in to a cam. But if the stock cam will net me what I'm after, I really don't see a reason to switch it out. Springs, ring gap, head gaskets and ARP studs, then call it a day. Easy enough for me.

 

An Isky 212/212 114 would make a good off the shelf cam that would work great for na and turbo.

If you're going to go as far as re gapping the rings then you must plan on pushing enough power to warrant a bigger cam then stock.

 

Being that your power requirements are pretty conservative and you don't care how it sounds, the OE cam is the ticket. I bet you could make nasty power with that cam anyway

 

I'm assuming you speak from experience