My truck has idled at 500-550rpms since it was new. That always seemed a little low to me, so I finally adjusted it last night. Not knowing what I was doing, I started messing with the cruise control screw. (I did not know thats what it was until later) Long story short, I get the truck to idle at 740-780rpms and I put my cruise control screw back to its stock location. Go for a cruise, and first thing I notice, 14 volts constant. On or off idle no matter if both fans are running, stero up, light on, etc. So far so good. Driving through a 30mph zone I notice I'm running at 40mph, so I let off the gas, expecting to start to slow down...nope, still going 40. Rpms staying constant at 1200. Its like I have automatic cruise control... A few stop signs later, I notice after I come to a complete stop a few seconds pass, then it feels like someone bumped into me.
Other than those things, the truck still runs hard.
Today, I go for a short drive and the SES light comes on. I check it, and it says Idle rpms higher than they are supposed to be. So I clear the code, and go about my business. Truck still doing the same things as before, but still running good.
Anyone have any clues as to what could be wrong? Should I try to adjust the cruise control screw to fix the "auto cruise"? I have heard about the yoke causing the clunk after stopping, is that what it could be, since the drive shaft is spinning faster now?
On a side note, I was stopped at the ATM machine getting cash, and I hear and feel this loud bang noise come from under the hood. I check all my gauges and my pants, luckily everything was where it was suppose to be. I pop the hood, and my driver side coil on the hood sprung off, and was laying next to the fuse box. Now my hood won't stay open.. It took 62,000 miles for something to finally break on this truck, and thats mainly my fault for alway popping the hood to do something else to it.

Sorry for the novel Any help appreciated.

 

I raised my idle up with LS1edit and it does help keep the voltage constant when the fans come on but, it's kinda a pain in the a$$ with the stock TIGHT stall in there. The truck is harder to stop and wants to do a mini-launch when you let off the brake. That's a pain in stop and go traffic.

I would adjust the cruise control screw back down and drill a small hole in the throttle body blade. Some already have a hole and you just enlarge it a bit. Be careful though not to go to big, go in 1/64th" increments. If you go to big you will be putting up with that SES idle too high light permanently until you get programming.(don't ask me how I know ) Make sure you drive the truck for a while after each hole size change to make sure the truck is warm and the idle is stable at a given rpm.

 

Send in your predator and have you WARM didle raised. That is the problem. Since i threw in my cam i had problems with it but this will be your fix

 

Thanks for the info guys. I think I will just put it back to stock idle till I get my cam and stall, since it ran fine the way it was. No need to blow up my convertor, or screw up my brakes. At least I learned how to raise the idle without the programmer, and when I get my cam and stall, I will know what will have to be done to get it running right. Thanks again.

 

Mine did the clunk when I raised my idle with Edit. I was trying to get my SC to not make so much noise chattering. It quits doing it with higer rpm's. I turned it back down, because I was getting the clunk every time I took off.
BTW, before you go doing any drilling, or any other messing with something, why don't you just get Edit, then you can do it the right way safely?
I have bought a HPPIII, and a superchimps, and Edit. I have all three, and I should have got Edit first