when you disconnect the battery cable it resets the computer back to the factory defaults (i think) and when you restart the vehicle, it will tune itself for better efficiency/power based on all the parameters it can measure, including the volume and temperature of the airflow through the sensor; this is my basic understanding anyway. definately do not get the superchips, i had one, and once i started to really get into puttin new parts, it felt like the tune couldnt keep up. plus, it takes forever to load/unload. my tuner uses HP tuners and it seems to be a rock solid system but like jake said it is very complicated to do on your own. i plan to buy it in the next month or so and start the long process of learning so i can tune for future mods. i'm sure it must be a hassle to keep sending mail order tunes back everytime you make some kind of a change and its pretty much impossible with a handheld programmer unless you have a diablo programmer with a "custom" tune, but even then, i think its still pretty limited. you cant beat a good tuner and a tune made specifically for your car.

 

It isn't 100% necessary, as the PCM will make adjustments as the sensors provide it with input, such as mass airflow, IAT (intake air temp), a/f ratio, etc. Disconnecting the battery basically resets to computer to a clean slate, and it will learn and adjust quicker...kinda like instant gratification from your CAI lol.

 

Like I said I'm new at this. what do you mean by "aftermarket CAT"? can you explain..

 

So what kind of Tuner do you all recommend? I will ditch the superchip. Another problem I'm encountering. After I installed the K&N my truck stopped power braking. I use to power brake, but not any more! Did I Loose power or what happened? do you all recommend gears. If so, what kind of gear would you all recommend. 2006 Chevrolet Silverado crew cap 4.8L.

OOh-Rah.

 

im guessing your talking about the cat back system. CAT is short for your Catalytic Converters (damn emission crap). The cat-back usually connects in the stock attachment point of the exhaust where the y-pipe and the muffler section connects. There are a ton of different companies making the cat-backs as complete bolt in kits including CORSA which i have and , magnaflow, stainless works, flowmaster, ect. may want to get stainless if your in an area where rust is a big problem and you plan on keeping the truck for a while. If you ckeck out the web sites you can see intstall pics. oh yea they come in dual and single variations.

 

I recommend a custom tune from a reputable tuner such as Nelson or PCMforLess...there's a link to Nelson's website on the right. You basically tell him what you've got, what you want out of your truck, and he uses his software to tune your PCM to suit your needs.

As for the power braking, it could be a couple things: 1) There may be some oil from the K&N filter on the MAF (mass air flow sensor), giving the pcm an incorrect reading, 2) The PCM hasn't adjusted to the increased air coming into the intake, 3) The intake tube isn't completely tightend and is allowing unmetered air to enter the intake, and possibly 4) The larger intake air volume is more suited for higher RPM's and is overkill for the RPM that you're powerbraking at...but #4 seems like a long shot...sounds good in theory, but may not be a reality.

 

high inlet air temperatures kill your power too. What CAI did you buy? If it's got a metal tube I'd recommend wrapping it with some fiberglass header wrap. It lowered my summer IAT's about 20-25* . If you try and power brake and your IAT is around 90-100* you're gonna pull about 4-5* of timing which kills your torque. Also another thing to consider is torque management. A tuner can completely disable torque management too. I'm not sure who's close to McAllen, but I'd recommend PCMforless like budhayes did

 

Seems as it was mentioned, what is Tourque management, and why is it good to keep, and why is it good (or at least ok) to disable? Im guessing torque management is when I mash the go pedal and the engine revs, theres not an instant grab, its smooth and depayed, and to mee seems to waste power and torque, so whats the deal?

 

An open element filter will get more hot engine air from under the hood and reduce power. With the stock intake, you were getting colder air from the fender, and at low rpms, if was okay, and actually better than now, because you were at relatively low RPMs. The stock box is good unless you are going to run at really high rpms.
Also, I have heard that if you are getting a deep rumble out of the intake now, you could actually be setting your knock sensors off and reducing the timing further.

I would be surprised if a cat back exhaust will do much for you other than sound cool. I have not seen many that gained much on the dyno for the cost. I put true duals with an H pipe on mine, and still can't tell you it made it that much better. Sounded cool though.

A tune will help more than any other mod, because it is changing real parameters in the system. That will be my next mod.

 

trq mgmt simply pulls timing under certain conditions. Say if you slam it and you downshift into 1st from 30mph roll then trq mgmt is going to kick in and pull timing to save the transmission from excess stress. Pretty much in a stock tune trq mgmt will engage anytime you could imagine your transmission being under stress. Also during shifts it pulls some timing to make it easier on the tranny.

Advantages of disabling it:
Full power all the time to the ground
I feel more comfortable towing with it as I have a LOT more lowend power in case I have to punch it while towing a load
Shifts are faster (along with tuning of shift pressure and time tables)
You can actually powerbrake (at least I can)

Advantages of keeping it:
Your tranny will last longer
Less wear on other drivetrain parts
Your rearend will like you better lol


I know I skipped some stuff, but that's trq mgmt in a nutshell.