MacADaYear

Ive installed new rotors, pads, ss lines, and power bleed with ATE fluid.

Anyone know the proper way to break em in?
I know Jsmith did "5 or 6 runs from about 25mph moderately/steadily braking to about 10mph. Then I made 3-4 run from 45mph down to 10mph"

Anything else I should know?

Hit Man X

Just drive about normally is what I do with new brake pads and rotors. Try to avoid huge fast stops?

BTW...how'd ya get that damned wheel off finally?

MacADaYear

Lol...my friend the hammer had a talk with that friggn rim

Hit Man X

Ataboy, show them who's boss. That's when like when I introduce people to Mr Chainsaw when they haven't paid up or they get thrown thru' a window...

Stroker 1500

iTrader: (1)

i here spelling brakes right helps with the proccess.
this is off of baers website and i follow this and have zero problems, a well known brake shop also uses this technique not to mention most the mechanics i haved talked to:

Seasoning Procedure:

Before you begin, please note: The following represents the minimum recommended “Seasoning” process. If your situation offers any opportunity to perform gentle preliminary “Seasoning” outlined in Step 2 below for a longer period of time, this will generally render even better performance and increase further long term rotor life.
Use the vehicle for 5 to 6 days of gentle driving. Use the brakes to the same extent that you used the stock brakes, DO NOT TEST PERFORMANCE or ATTEMPT HEAVY USE UNTIL ALL ITEMS OUTLINED HAVE BEEN COMPLETED. It is imperative that excessive heat is not put into the rotors at this stage. They need temperature-cycling to relieve the internal stresses.
Note: Zinc plated rotors (which are an extra cost option) need a couple of extra days of driving to wear through the plating before “Seasoning” actually will begin.
Find a safe location where the brakes can be run to temperature.
Your goal is to gradually increase brake temperatures with progressively faster stops. Start by performing four 60 to 70 mph stops, as you would in the normal course of driving.
Next, perform four medium effort partial stops (about 50 %) from 60 mph down to 15 mph. Follow this with five minutes of freeway driving with LITTLE to NO BRAKING to allow the rotors to cool.
Then, perform four medium-hard effort partial stops (about 75 %) from 60 mph down to 15 mph. Follow this with ten minutes of freeway driving with LITTLE to NO BRAKING to allow the rotors to cool.
Park the car and allow the brakes to cool overnight to ambient temperature. You are now 50 % done with the rotor “Seasoning/Bedding” procedure, proceed to STEP 4 the following day.
Return to the safe location where the brakes can be run to temperature.
Make sure the brakes are warmed to full operating temperature and then, perform four medium effort partial stops (about 50 %) from 60 mph down to 15 mph. Follow this with five minutes of freeway driving with LITTLE to NO BRAKING to allow the rotors to cool.
Then, perform four medium-hard effort partial stops (about 75 %) from 60 mph down to 15 mph. Follow this with ten minutes of freeway driving with LITTLE to NO BRAKING to allow the rotors to cool.
NOW, make six HARD partial stops from 60+ mph down to 15 mph or until rotors have reached an operation temperature of between 900 and 1,100° (Note: Temperature paints to accurately measure rotor temperature may be purchased from Baer Racing). Every effort should be made to perform this procedure without locking a wheel. Follow this with ten minutes of freeway driving with LITTLE to NO BRAKING to allow the rotors to cool.
Let the system cool off over night. The rotors are then ready for the next step in Preparing your Brake System: Bedding Pads.

Bedding Metallic or Carbon/Metallic Pads - (NEVER DRAG the brakes)


Note: Never “Bed” pads on rotors which have not first been “Seasoned.” Always allow a substantial coast down zone when bedding pads that will allow you to safely drive the car to a stop in the event of fade.
Perform four repeated light to medium stops, from 65 to 10 mph, to bring the rotors to temperature.
Perform two heavy stops, back to back, at a point just pending wheel lock, from 65 mph to about 5 mph.
Drive for five to ten minutes to create cooling airflow, without using the brakes if at all possible.
Perform three light stops in succession.
Perform eight heavy stops, back to back, at a point just pending wheel lock, from 65 mph to about 5 mph.
Drive for ten minutes to create cooling airflow, without using the brakes if at all possible.
Metallic brake pads need high temperatures to keep the pad “Bedded”. If you drive the car for a period of time without using the brakes extensively, you may need to “Bed” the pads again. This is not a problem. Simply repeat the procedure.

When switching from Performance Friction Carbon Metallic pads to semi-metallic brake pads (something we do not recommend), you will need to wear through the layer of carbon that the PFC pads have deposited in the rotor surface. The new pads won’t grip well at all, until this layer of carbon is removed.

Racers should “Bed” a few sets of pads at a time. In the event you need to change brake pads during a race, you MUST use a set of “Bedded” pads. Racing on “non-bedded” pads leads to a type of “fade” caused by the binding agents coming out of the pad too quickly. This is called “green fade”. These binders may create a liquid (actually a gas) layer between your pads and rotors. Liquids have a very poor coefficient of friction. This condition is the reason for reverse slotting or crossdrilling rotors, as it allows a pathway for the gasses to escape.

MacADaYear

Sweet thanx for the info on the BRAKES