ProCold cold air intakes on special...
#11
Always Leary!
I dont see it working THAT WELL with the stock piping. Maybe its just me, but the way the stock piping is designed looks restrictive no matter what you put infront of it.
I dont see it working THAT WELL with the stock piping. Maybe its just me, but the way the stock piping is designed looks restrictive no matter what you put infront of it.
#12
#13
I'm running the Volant air tube with my ProCold and its working out good for me. I had the K&N FIPK, MAC, and Vararam intakes and the ProCold felt like it gave me more power than all of those.
#14
it just seems a little pricey by the time you add in the procold system and then buying a new intake tube, the couplings for that tube, etc. Better or not, it should be a complete system. For example volant's kit includes a filter, new tubes and even a new airbox for around the same price..............
I'm just saying!
It looks like a good sytem, but I wouldnt buy simply because of the price and what you get.
I'm just saying!
It looks like a good sytem, but I wouldnt buy simply because of the price and what you get.
#15
I hear that OCBC... Not dissing the ProCold at all - just the whole intake market is a little pricey.
My rant on the subject - I wish intake MFG's out there would make an intake that takes advantage of the room electric fans provide. IE: NOT factory fan-shrowd compatible.
I think a nice clean sweeping 90* bend would be better than the intake tubes with either a tigher 90* (UPD for example) or the notch in them for the fan-shrowd. (Even the AirRaid kit here is clearanced - if you check out the install instructions).
My rant on the subject - I wish intake MFG's out there would make an intake that takes advantage of the room electric fans provide. IE: NOT factory fan-shrowd compatible.
I think a nice clean sweeping 90* bend would be better than the intake tubes with either a tigher 90* (UPD for example) or the notch in them for the fan-shrowd. (Even the AirRaid kit here is clearanced - if you check out the install instructions).
#16
One thing I sure like about the ProCold is the long section of tube before the MAF. That should really help ensure that the MAF is getting a nice smooth stream of air.
One big thing keeping me from aftermarket intakes is the ultra-sensitivity of the MAF. I almost got my truck to stall by putting my finger near the MAF, when I had my airbox lid off. The slightest turbulence really chokes it up. .......then with the latest fiasco with Volant(?) and that magazine article that found a loss of power, that just verified what I was thinking.
I was under the assumption that GM has been the only one who put a lot of thought into this subject, when they designed the factory airbox. (They may have been the only ones who could afford to).
One big thing keeping me from aftermarket intakes is the ultra-sensitivity of the MAF. I almost got my truck to stall by putting my finger near the MAF, when I had my airbox lid off. The slightest turbulence really chokes it up. .......then with the latest fiasco with Volant(?) and that magazine article that found a loss of power, that just verified what I was thinking.
I was under the assumption that GM has been the only one who put a lot of thought into this subject, when they designed the factory airbox. (They may have been the only ones who could afford to).
#17
Thread Starter
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From: Scottsdale, AZ
Hey guys...thanks for the questions.
I agree. Big power gains are always something to be leery of. And let me be the 1st to admit, some vehicles (even the same ones with the same mods) will sometimes be different when it comes down to #s even if all else is equal.
Heres our 03 shop truck. 5.3 rcsb, bone stock, had about 100 miles on it when we ran her. Only mod is the ProCold.

This truck was also tested with different tubes going to the TB during R&D. For whatever reason, the stock tube with the silencers consistantly made a couple more hp than the aftermarket tubes did. Otherwise we would change out that tube for our kits as well.
Ill gladly throw a local on the dyno with our intake if you want to try it out.
Take a look at what the guys at Chevy Avalanche Fun Club said about us:
"All,
I was hanging out with my friends at Pro Dyno here in AZ, and got a little tidbit of info you may all want to know about ... They are now selling their Cold Air Kit (Intake) ... It is a "very close" version of the intake they built for me back in '99 on my Silverado 5.3 ... The only thing was back then, it was different owners and the truck needed to be left for the installation ... Now, the new owner (Charles of ASM) and the Manager (Scott of ASM) have developed a cold air kit that they call the "PRO COLD" ... I was just down there chatting about some stuff, and Charles asked if I saw their final product (that can be shipped as a kit now by the way) ... That means if you have a 4.8, 5.3, 6.0, or 8.1, you can buy this kit ... I'll tell you the details later... Onward!
Needless to say, I am very excited to have this source here local to provide this cold air kit ... I have always said, the only way to "really guarantee" any significant gain in HP with a new intake, was to relocate the inlet as far away from the engine bay as possible... This kit goes along the design philosophy of the Z28 LT1 cold air kits... It is nearly identical in design to the AZ Speed & Marine kit for the 94-97 F-Body ...
Here's the basics ... (They have some marketing pics on the way which I will provide later) ... This kit requires the removal of the stock airbox and mounting plate ... The oem piping between the throttle body and the MAF sensor stays ... (They have found that the attributes of the oem intake tube rather than a smooth pipe perform better ... For the same reasons, if some of you may recall that I have stated in the past... i.e. Reliability of connections, Better air reserve at tip-in, and a reservior to trap moisture if you get antsy off road...)
Anyways, the good stuff... I was amazed to hear that this kit made 28 RWHP and 27.2 RW TQ ... Folks, the dyno sheet is (here) if you don't believe me ... Here's the details of the dyno run and subsequent runs, as believe me, I had questions for them !
The truck was a BONE STOCK 2003 Silverado 5.3 Regular Cab Short Bed 1500 ... The dyno pull was done after the install... The PCM was reset, and the truck was warmed up to operating temp (idled and revved to reach 200 Deg on the oem temp gauge) ... It was then run on the dyno in 2nd gear ... It was run until it hit the limiter in 2nd gear ... They then couldn't believe their eyes and ran it 4 more times ... They were all averaged and found to be consistent ...
Now, here's the interesting part on the dyno sheet I'm posting here ... Look at the outside (ambient) temps ... The baseline run was done at 91.1 Degrees and the 28 HP gain was logged at 94.1 degrees ... I will say, that anything over 90 degrees is hot and the 28 HP was gained with a 3 degree rise in ambient temp ... Kewl ... Imagine what this kit will make with 50 or 60 Degree temps ... ... Wow
.... OOOK ... Now for the interesting part ... They let the truck idle for a LONG time ... After they ran the heck out of the truck, and were convinced that the underhood temps were as high as possible in the shop, (94 degrees) ... They wanted to see what the kit would make with no circulation in the engine bay (other than the oem fan) ... The result was a worst case scenario ... For example, what will this kit make after idling for prolonged periods in 94 degree traffic after heat soak has taken over in the engine bay ... You ready for this? ... 16 RWHP ... Yep, after your truck is hot as hell, it will still make about 57% of the power it made when just warmed up ... Now, I will tell you, I don't think there is a kit on the planet that can claim this ... Yes, even the AEM ... The most you'll see kits advertise (if they even do) is about 10-12 HP ... Read their dyno procedures... At least AEM admits to running with the hood up ... After the intake gets hot, that 10 HP or whatever fizzles back to nil ... The PRO COLD kit dwindles back to 16 HP ... Not too shab ... It's because of the design of the kit ... The K&N pulls air from behind the bumper area (among some other design enhancements you'll see when you get one) ... Not the upper corner of the engine bay ... Plus, the filter is blocked off with an integral plate that seperates the pipe from the filter inlet ... Ok... want to buy one ? ... Here's the details ...
... They are made of steel, and come in the following colors: Copper, Black, Silver, or Grey ... The finish is a high quality enamel textured paint that looks pretty nice ... Charles was talking about making a mold and doing these in plastic, but I told him that I "personally" would rather have a stout kit that can be painted colors like he has ... The kit comes with a K&N conical filter and he is still working out shipping on a person by person basis ... He and Scott are very excited about providing this kit to us and our discussion was very positive... If you all are wondering, I am not getting anything for this ... Seriously ... I am just trying to promote an intake that actually puts up and this is all this shop will sell ... HP gains ...... I told them once I posted this, that they would be flooded with calls ... Scott and Charles told me, "Bring it on!" ... Oh, and please ask for Scott first then Charles ...
11H
"
I'll put my money where my mouth is guys. If a local reads this, Ill throw you on the dyno free for a couple runs to show you the results of this intake 1st hand.
I agree. Big power gains are always something to be leery of. And let me be the 1st to admit, some vehicles (even the same ones with the same mods) will sometimes be different when it comes down to #s even if all else is equal.
Heres our 03 shop truck. 5.3 rcsb, bone stock, had about 100 miles on it when we ran her. Only mod is the ProCold.
This truck was also tested with different tubes going to the TB during R&D. For whatever reason, the stock tube with the silencers consistantly made a couple more hp than the aftermarket tubes did. Otherwise we would change out that tube for our kits as well.
Ill gladly throw a local on the dyno with our intake if you want to try it out.
Take a look at what the guys at Chevy Avalanche Fun Club said about us:
"All,
I was hanging out with my friends at Pro Dyno here in AZ, and got a little tidbit of info you may all want to know about ... They are now selling their Cold Air Kit (Intake) ... It is a "very close" version of the intake they built for me back in '99 on my Silverado 5.3 ... The only thing was back then, it was different owners and the truck needed to be left for the installation ... Now, the new owner (Charles of ASM) and the Manager (Scott of ASM) have developed a cold air kit that they call the "PRO COLD" ... I was just down there chatting about some stuff, and Charles asked if I saw their final product (that can be shipped as a kit now by the way) ... That means if you have a 4.8, 5.3, 6.0, or 8.1, you can buy this kit ... I'll tell you the details later... Onward!
Needless to say, I am very excited to have this source here local to provide this cold air kit ... I have always said, the only way to "really guarantee" any significant gain in HP with a new intake, was to relocate the inlet as far away from the engine bay as possible... This kit goes along the design philosophy of the Z28 LT1 cold air kits... It is nearly identical in design to the AZ Speed & Marine kit for the 94-97 F-Body ...
Here's the basics ... (They have some marketing pics on the way which I will provide later) ... This kit requires the removal of the stock airbox and mounting plate ... The oem piping between the throttle body and the MAF sensor stays ... (They have found that the attributes of the oem intake tube rather than a smooth pipe perform better ... For the same reasons, if some of you may recall that I have stated in the past... i.e. Reliability of connections, Better air reserve at tip-in, and a reservior to trap moisture if you get antsy off road...)
Anyways, the good stuff... I was amazed to hear that this kit made 28 RWHP and 27.2 RW TQ ... Folks, the dyno sheet is (here) if you don't believe me ... Here's the details of the dyno run and subsequent runs, as believe me, I had questions for them !
The truck was a BONE STOCK 2003 Silverado 5.3 Regular Cab Short Bed 1500 ... The dyno pull was done after the install... The PCM was reset, and the truck was warmed up to operating temp (idled and revved to reach 200 Deg on the oem temp gauge) ... It was then run on the dyno in 2nd gear ... It was run until it hit the limiter in 2nd gear ... They then couldn't believe their eyes and ran it 4 more times ... They were all averaged and found to be consistent ...
Now, here's the interesting part on the dyno sheet I'm posting here ... Look at the outside (ambient) temps ... The baseline run was done at 91.1 Degrees and the 28 HP gain was logged at 94.1 degrees ... I will say, that anything over 90 degrees is hot and the 28 HP was gained with a 3 degree rise in ambient temp ... Kewl ... Imagine what this kit will make with 50 or 60 Degree temps ... ... Wow
.... OOOK ... Now for the interesting part ... They let the truck idle for a LONG time ... After they ran the heck out of the truck, and were convinced that the underhood temps were as high as possible in the shop, (94 degrees) ... They wanted to see what the kit would make with no circulation in the engine bay (other than the oem fan) ... The result was a worst case scenario ... For example, what will this kit make after idling for prolonged periods in 94 degree traffic after heat soak has taken over in the engine bay ... You ready for this? ... 16 RWHP ... Yep, after your truck is hot as hell, it will still make about 57% of the power it made when just warmed up ... Now, I will tell you, I don't think there is a kit on the planet that can claim this ... Yes, even the AEM ... The most you'll see kits advertise (if they even do) is about 10-12 HP ... Read their dyno procedures... At least AEM admits to running with the hood up ... After the intake gets hot, that 10 HP or whatever fizzles back to nil ... The PRO COLD kit dwindles back to 16 HP ... Not too shab ... It's because of the design of the kit ... The K&N pulls air from behind the bumper area (among some other design enhancements you'll see when you get one) ... Not the upper corner of the engine bay ... Plus, the filter is blocked off with an integral plate that seperates the pipe from the filter inlet ... Ok... want to buy one ? ... Here's the details ...
... They are made of steel, and come in the following colors: Copper, Black, Silver, or Grey ... The finish is a high quality enamel textured paint that looks pretty nice ... Charles was talking about making a mold and doing these in plastic, but I told him that I "personally" would rather have a stout kit that can be painted colors like he has ... The kit comes with a K&N conical filter and he is still working out shipping on a person by person basis ... He and Scott are very excited about providing this kit to us and our discussion was very positive... If you all are wondering, I am not getting anything for this ... Seriously ... I am just trying to promote an intake that actually puts up and this is all this shop will sell ... HP gains ...... I told them once I posted this, that they would be flooded with calls ... Scott and Charles told me, "Bring it on!" ... Oh, and please ask for Scott first then Charles ...
11H
"
I'll put my money where my mouth is guys. If a local reads this, Ill throw you on the dyno free for a couple runs to show you the results of this intake 1st hand.
#18
It's easy to "DOUBT" the claims, as some of them are so exagerated its not even funny, and considering most of us are not engineers, we really don't understand what does and doesn't work until someone proves it to us. I do know this, my AEM was dyno tested (not by AEM either!) and proven to increase hp by 13rwhp with no other mods. Truckin' Magazine also got the same results with their test of it. To me, 13rwhp is well worth $240. I don't see why the ProCold wouldn't produce simillar gains. I do agree that some of the claims that K&N (and others) make (like the one of "up to 28hp") seem a little exagerated, but what do I know??


