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Pic of TR6 plug on N/A 4.8

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Old Mar 27, 2014 | 10:09 PM
  #11  
dirt track racer 81's Avatar
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From: Hennessey, Oklahoma
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Originally Posted by TIM Z
What he means is you truly can't " read " a plug unless you could instantly shut down the engine the exact second you let off from a wide open pull .

The plug is still firing / burning mixtures till you shut her down , from WOT to idle , so all that time driving / idle ing around will skew how you truly read a plug after a wot pull .

But you can still get a feel for how they are generally performing in an engine .
Chocolate brown usually indicates a properly tuned engine , white is too lean and black / dark is too rich , it's hard to tell from your picture but looks like it's burning ok , I would put a step hotter plug like from the factory and gap accordingly till you get boosted , I'm sure you'll notice a difference.

This is not gospel , just my understanding as explained to me . I believe to truly read a plug you need to cut it open , someone may be able to explain better than I , lol .
Correct way to read a plug is have the motor warmed up, put all new plugs in, instantly make a hit, no idle time, no drive time. Turn the motor off right after a pass and pull your plugs. Yes cutting the threads off to read your fuel ring. Check your timing marks on the strap of the plug. Slight gray ring around the base of the porcelain.
As in trying to read a plug like he posted there's quite a few variables to give it the black color, back to what you said idle time and drive time along with the overlap of the cam. Depends on how close the tune is as well. You can have a properly tune engine and still look like that.
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Old Mar 28, 2014 | 12:43 AM
  #12  
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I run TR55's gapped at .039, since I'm running higher CR at higher speeds. If you're still at stock compression I would definitely go with TR5's, maybe step up to TR55's if you run a huge stall converter (like myself).

From the blurry image posted, I see no major issues. The reddish ring is ethanol deposits (normal).
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