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P1153 after a mod

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Old Mar 1, 2006 | 04:07 PM
  #21  
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Default Still there!

I did use sensor safe blue RTV. The leak was so minor that it wouldn't affect the sensor. It was just making the buzzing noise from a small leak. I've erased the code three times and it just keeps returning. I guess a tune is my only option. I think it is just the cat removal that set it off like 50% of you guys have said. A buddy of mine who has a 97 Cobra started popping a similar code after I installed his off road X-pipe for him.

How much does a tune run for anyways?
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Old Mar 1, 2006 | 04:24 PM
  #22  
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it shouldnt be there. even a small hole can let air in and those sensors are very sensitive. think of it this way. exhaust is a pulse...inbetween pulses is airs chance to be vaccumed in. ive never heard of the lack of heat causing the 02 sensor to not work. not saying its impossible, but if it were the case, why would your truck not go nuts on initial startup while its cold?

i think its either an exhaust leak causing the code or a bad o2 sensor. did you check around where the header bolts up to the motor for leaks too?

you could also check for any air leaks in the intake system behind the mass air flow sensor. probably not it, but its worth eliminating. borrow someone elses 02 sensor and delete the code and drive on it for a week or so to see if it comes back. that will eliminate the bad 02 sensor possibility.
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Old Mar 1, 2006 | 04:48 PM
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Originally Posted by TXsilverado
ive never heard of the lack of heat causing the 02 sensor to not work. not saying its impossible, but if it were the case, why would your truck not go nuts on initial startup while its cold?
HO2 heated. At first start up the o2's are in open loop until properly heated(actually the pcm is in open loop). This open to closed loop change is fast with the heated sensor. The computer will monitor the switch rate from rich (over 600 mV) to lean (under 300 mV) and from lean to rich. The switching time will be compared with known good values and a code will be set for slow rates. This value will vary from vehicle to vehicle. The code always comes before you drive around...they are obviously heated enough to do their job when driving around.

It can be alot of things. yes air can get in there. But ya gotta use the ultimate troubleshooting tool with issues. That tool is a question, "What did you change right before the code?" He gutted his cats.

It's just a code to tell you at initial start they aren't switching quick enough. That's why the vette sensor usually takes care of this.
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Old Mar 3, 2006 | 03:39 AM
  #24  
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Lightbulb

There are absolutley no leaks. Even when the system is at enough back pressure to shut off the engine; Exhaust plugged at tips for 45 seconds. My gas mileage isn't hurting at all (sucky as always 14.5 mpg with a lightish foot) so I'm not too worried about it. I just hate that annoying, non-dimming, orange glow from the MIL.

Originally Posted by dewmanshu
It's just a code to tell you at initial start they aren't switching quick enough. That's why the vette sensor usually takes care of this.
Vette sensor? What year and model sensor do I need? Do I need to change the bung at all? Does the sensor plug right in our do I have to do some splicing. Thanks for the info.
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Old Mar 3, 2006 | 06:32 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by TX_Z71

Vette sensor? What year and model sensor do I need? Do I need to change the bung at all? Does the sensor plug right in our do I have to do some splicing. Thanks for the info.
I never did the mod. I have HPTuners. I just turned those codes off. Do some thorough searching on LS1tech.com, I am sure you'll come up with something there. Here's a couple links.

vette 1

vette 2
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