dewmanshu

iTrader: (4)

heard that.

TX_Z71

I have some exhaust leaking at the manifold to pipe connection but before it leaked I was still throwing a code. If it's because I removed my cats wouldn't my left bank sensor be going off to. Do you think swapping the sensors, right for left and left for right, would be a good troubleshoot start point? Can you delete the front sensor inputs with a tune?

dewmanshu

iTrader: (4)

i just noticed you have rear sims too. That's even funnier concerning 02sierraz71_5.3

Anyways, not always. I wouldn't bother switching them (I have HPT, maybe for you it would be better to try). If you did take the time and switch them and the code changed to the other bank...then yep it's the o2 getting tired of switching more than likely. IMO you'll probably be chasing your tail cuz more often than not you'll read a thread online where others have the same codes and 99.99% of the time it's heat related, not the sensor itself.

Second question, yep. In the tune you'd just tell the pcm to ignore those codes.

Fix that leak! Your front o2's aren't getting the correct information to give you a drivable vehicle.

TX_Z71

Leak fixed. The code is still there. What's the best place to get a PCM?

rgvsierra

iTrader: (7)

if you fixed the leak, try to reset the pcm using the fuse method or disconnect the battery to clear the code. then wait to see if it comes out again.

to get a pcm choose a sponsor to the right..

fyi, i had that code on for alot of months after my header install. one day it just went away.. that reminds me, did you use any kind of silicone during all of this stuff you did..

dewmanshu

iTrader: (4)

the leak wasn't was causing the code, just misleading air/fuel readings for the o2's.

If you are in the market for a tune, get the tuner to get rid of heat performance/switching codes for the front o2's.

ooooooorrrrr.....buy corvette REAR o2 sensors and see if they help. They run a little hotter, I believe you just match the year so that the plug is the same. Do some thread searching on here and ls1tech.com for the exact bosch part number....13xxx something. They are't definite fixes, but plenty of stories to say they worked. With just gutted cats and no headers, good chance they would work.

rgvsierra

iTrader: (7)

if the leak was there, wouldent that also be cooling off the sensor? with it also being leaky, air would go in tricking the sensor to always show lean? which what the code is about, lean to rich switching...

dewmanshu

iTrader: (4)

not sure how you mean.

i am picturing his leak somewhere before the sensor. A leak is letting air out of the exhaust path. To me it just means that the sensor is getting less air/fuel...less things to read when it should be reading more...there is the tricking part...the sensor is telling the pcm the wrong info, some of that info is escaping out the leak.

The air or exhaust moving by sensor to keep it warm enough is still there...just less so many parts per billion. LOL I guess it could be just that much cooler to make a difference, he still has the code though.

Think of it this way, how many threads or stories have you read of people with leaking exhausts (before the sensor) that have the switching code? But mess with that cat and/or headers and you'll usually see it.

dewmanshu

iTrader: (4)

my understanding with this is that means that the chemical process needs just enough heat to make an effective wave between the two(lean/rich). Between the 2 is stoich right? The o2's need certain amount of heat to make this switching effective.

rgvsierra

iTrader: (7)

what i mean is that a leak in the exhaust stream by the sensor would cause that code, plus also cause faulty 02 readings.
if there is a leak anywhere near the sensor, not only does air escape, (and yes cause funny 02 reading), but air does also enter the stream causing the false reading, which would trick the senor to not go to lean/rich switching.

do a search on tech, i found alot of posts on those codes when i had mine, there is plenty of info there.