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ordered lt's, ory, and muffler, now what

Old Sep 13, 2006 | 05:19 PM
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Default ordered lt's, ory, and muffler, now what

Just ordered pacesetters with the ORY and a Super 40 3"/3". I know that not too many people on here like flows, but i've heard em all and I personally like em, now that thats outta the way, I dont really have to worry about emissions so I'm thinking about running without cats. Would I keep some of my lowend power with running the cats right after the y pipe then going into the flow and dump at the axle? or should I just ditch the cats?
I figured it'd give me some more backpressure if I kept it in the system. Also, what about assembly of the exhaust setup? Weld the y-pipe to the lt's or get clamps? I'm assuming clamps, but I also don't want any leaks. Just need some of yall's opinions on this type of setup. Oh, also there's going to be a single 3" cutout right after the ORY

thanks a bunch
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Old Sep 13, 2006 | 05:21 PM
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Originally Posted by jakebdb56
I figured it'd give me some more backpressure if I kept it in the system.
You don't want "more backpressure". If anything you want a vacuum which is caused by scavenging.
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Old Sep 17, 2006 | 01:17 PM
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any other comments about keeping the cat or not? headers will be here tomorrow, and everything is getting installed next sunday.

From the gathered info on this site/ls1tech and from Young at Byunspeed I'm going to use the rtv silicone on the ORY slip fit, put header wrap on the outside of the collector/ORY fitting and install lap joing clamp over the wrap. whack the flange from the existing cat back, weld it onto some 3" aluminized tubing, wrap the extension/muffler fitting and butt joint clamp. Then weld a 3" turndown to the muffler. Exhaust will be dumped pretty much right after the cab with turndown turned a little inward towards the driveshaft. I'm trying to do limited welding for the sole purpose of removability in the future. For all the truck guys looking for help with pacesetter installs I'm going to take detailed pix all the way through and give a before/after video with good sound. if anyone has some suggestions post them up

Parts List:
Pacesetter Lt's (ceramic coated) 72C2265
Pacesetter ORY 82-1176
1 Flowmaster Super 40 3" c/c 953045
2 Dynomax Lap Joint band clamps (stainless) WLK-33272
1 Dynomax Butto Joint band clamp (stainless) WLK-33278
DEI Header wrap 010107
Fel-Pro Gasket set (might use stock or pacesetter ones, but got these just in case the others look like ) MS 92467
VersaChem High Temp red RTV silicone 65309
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Old Sep 17, 2006 | 02:33 PM
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ditch them i used mine as an anchor
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Old Sep 17, 2006 | 02:39 PM
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hahaha, sounds like a good idea, I think I'm just going to keep every stock piece intact so I can just put it back on later if need be. I have a big attic over our garage where I keep everything, i.e. the stock chrome trim that looked like , stock air intake, stock tires, stock engine cover, and a few more parts will be added next sunday. reason being is if something happens to the truck, i wanna be able to put every stock part back ontot eh truck before bringing it in for repairs.

i will be posting up pictures soon of the parts before install of the exhaust.
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Old Sep 18, 2006 | 11:18 PM
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There is more than one source that indicated wrapping exhaust is a bad idea.

Headers by Ed: Coatings (good), Header Wraps (bad - they reduce life expectancy of a header dramatically - AT LEAST by 50% - as they elevate the temperature of the header tubing past what it can often withstand).
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Old Sep 19, 2006 | 12:15 AM
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I'm not wrapping the whole exhaust, only a 2 inch section where the clamp will be holding the ORY to the header so the clamp wont f up the armor coat. The wrap will get a silicone sealant (made by DEI) that's high heat and won't let moisture in. In most cases where people have problems with header wrap is if the wrap gets wet it can hold a lot of moisture causing the tubing to possibly rust depending on the coating/alloy whether it was ceramic coated, painted, or it's stainless which can still rust. In my case i'm just using it to resist scratching of the headers and to ensure ease of removal.
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Old Sep 19, 2006 | 07:57 AM
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You'll need 4 clamps for the y-pipe/headers alone.
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Old Sep 19, 2006 | 11:39 PM
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yea on the ORY since it's a multi-piece Y now instead of the old one I'm going to use the band clamps provided with them to piece it together, but on the Header/ORY connection I'm still going to use the lap joint, I think it'll give it a great seal. You used the butt joint clamps right moddoo? I ordered 2 of the butt joint and 2 lap joint just in case I change my mind. After the ORY I decided that I'm just going to weld everything to ensure that it won't leak. Only thing that I'm in concern with now is placement for the super 40. I wanna make it close to the ORY but really there isn't much room between the ORY and where the leaf spring mounts are... I'll figure out somethin, use a little redneck engineering.
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Old Sep 20, 2006 | 07:38 AM
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I used 4 of these clamps from accuseal, they work well.

The headers come with old school U-bolt clamps, good chance of leaks,and you'll never get it apart.

I have a recent thread about clamps, check it out.
http://https://www.performancetrucks...ighlight=clamp
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